- Thread starter
- #21
I sure did, thank you for the recommendation.
Infamous crank no start
- Thread starter RaginCajunATX
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- lx470 no start troubleshooting
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- Thread starter
- #22
Not exactly sure if I'm doing something wrong but was seeing if I can jump the relay. Absolutely no luck. Security light is still on. I'm not near it anymore but now I'm thinking I was supposed to remove the 20a EFI fuse?
Try connecting to the E slot next to where you have it now. Slot toward engine from your wire. Also, the smart engineer mudders here recommend that be a fusible line.
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- #24
I'm supposed to be a smart engineer for my day job so shame on me. I knew I should have one but I wanted a quick test while I wait for medtro to respond.
Just to educate myself, why the E slot?
I have no idea. I just listen to smart folks.
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- #26
I will give it a go tomorrow. I only seen people mention the F terminal. I'm hoping this works. I'm waiting for medtro to respond but I'm ready to get this thing to a solid condition
F is for the bypass when using a relay. E is used to get direct power to possibly crank in an emergency but must be removed or else the battery will drain.... hence the purpose of a good relay.
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- #28
My feeble brain just got that much bigger. Thank you for that.
That's the way I understand it learning from folks like @medtro
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- #30
Well I guess that why I am confused because I thought @medtro recommends terminal F. I understand that very this may be me not doing enough research through the threads. I really hope to have solid block of time to deep dive the threads more.Connect a wire from battery 12V post to the F terminal (see picture below), then try to start the engine. This kit will not help if the engine doesn't start with the above wire connection (assuming the battery is fully charged). This is the kit you need if the engine starts.
CORRECTION:
Yes it is the F terminal when connecting directly to battery. My fault.
The E slot to battery can be used if you get the p1600 code.
Last edited:
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- #32
No worries. It is a little disheartening that it did not start but I'm coming across a couple of threads this morning where it failed the test and still end up being the fuse box. I'll try to hit it with a multimeter today.
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- #33
Well I came back to visit the LX this morning and can't help but notice that when the key is in the on position I can completely remove it from the ignition. I would assume that this is not normal behavior for an LX.
That certainly doesn't happen in any of my Lexii. I think you need a new ignition switch.
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- #35
Well I'm going to shoot for the stars and hope you a worn key. Next ignition switch. Thanks for all the help. I'll come back and post the solution for anyone who is in the same pirogue as me
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- #37
Currently have a dummy key being made to rule out if it's just a worn out key.
My concern is that it's the ignition switch and I will have to program a new key to the immobilizer without having a working master key.
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- #38
Most of my fuses look just like this
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- #39
SOLUTION:
So I got the truck with two keys. One for the doors and one for the ignition. I got a new key made with the chip copied to be the same as the ignition one. It fixed the loose key in the ignition problem but the security light was still on. So I copied the chip for the door key and starts right up!
So I got the truck with two keys. One for the doors and one for the ignition. I got a new key made with the chip copied to be the same as the ignition one. It fixed the loose key in the ignition problem but the security light was still on. So I copied the chip for the door key and starts right up!