I posted before when this happened to me a couple months ago how by following the simple instruction on this forum to remove the ignition lock cylinder and the broken rod ... you can start the truck using a 7 or 8 mm socket or a 3/32,,,,, 1/4 drive socket on a 6-7" extension or nut driver...
The correct socket will fit over/onto the remaining stub in the bottom of the lock barrel and with this you should be able to start the truck and get home... (you MUST tie your key fob to the inducer ring so that it allows it to start)
I was not going to support mr toyota for a part they should have recalled or offered for free. and was going to install a push button start... for more than a few reasons I scrapped that plan... and instead in less than 20 min I fixed the broken part... so far so good..
I did not take any pictures because I was just playing around thinking "this might work". MY Failure/break was near the bottom of the lock barrel with maybe 1/4" of the shaft left .... it had a semi hex shape that allowed the socket to fit on it and when turned it would start the truck. (this will get you home or to the dealer) but it was not a positive engagement I would trust for more than a "get me home start"
looking down into the empty barrel i could see a lobe/bump toward THE STEERING COLUMN ON one side of THE REMAINING SHAFT... ie the first part of the remaining shaft was kinda hex (7mm in my case) then down 1/4" it had a lobe on about 1/3 of the shaft.... I ground that 7mm socket to fit down the shaft and positivly engage the lobe.. (C-) and I then filed the broken shaft end of the part I removed to fit the 1/4" drive part of the socket..
I used a short socket, first I ground the 7mm end flat to rid it of the inside bevel, this shortened the socket by maybe 1/16", I then cut a notch in the side of the socket to fit over the lobe on the side of the shaft and let the socket fully seat on the remaining shaft... on the broken part of the shaft I pulled out I filed it so that it would go all the way down into the 1/4 drive end of the socket... so that it would touch the other broken part in the lock.... this required filing the first 1/4" of the shaft round to go down the center of the socket... when doing this I thought I'd add some jb weld and wanted max surface area... I did not use the JB weld.... but I wanted the finished length the same as stock so I wanted the 2 broken parts to meet inside the socket....
now the trick part... these part have to be damn close to aligned to where they were .... so when you file/grind/cut the notch in the side of the socket to key it onto the lobe, that notch has to be in the right place to keep everything where it needs to be to line up to go back together... (keep this in mind BEFORE you cut the notch in the socket) it took me a lot longer to type this up than it did to implement the fix... I happen to think this fix is stronger than it was... the JB weld might have helped but I test fit it... and I lightly drove the socket onto the shaft down in the cylinder bore (i made the notch tight for this reason) I then slipped the "drive end" of the upper broken piece (proper orientation) then pushed the lock cylinder down into the barrel bore with a little jiggling it engaged and snapped into place... worked perfect... it's still going strong... now this is fixed for me... if you are comfortable with these type fixes... this will let you complete a trip...
tools needed 7mm 1/4 drive short socket you won't get back
8"s worth of 1/4 drive extension or rig something if you don't have... like a long flathead screwdriver... need the extension to place the socket on the nub and light taps to drive it on/home
a file or grinder or rotary tool to file the shaft and to notch the socket... that and a Phillips screwdriver and something pointy to release the lock and you are done... I used a file and a flex shaft... hope my words painted enough of a picture... there are several threads on the steps to the lock removal so I did not address that... all in this fix should take less than an hour and you are on the road again with an ignition that works as it did before
The correct socket will fit over/onto the remaining stub in the bottom of the lock barrel and with this you should be able to start the truck and get home... (you MUST tie your key fob to the inducer ring so that it allows it to start)
I was not going to support mr toyota for a part they should have recalled or offered for free. and was going to install a push button start... for more than a few reasons I scrapped that plan... and instead in less than 20 min I fixed the broken part... so far so good..
I did not take any pictures because I was just playing around thinking "this might work". MY Failure/break was near the bottom of the lock barrel with maybe 1/4" of the shaft left .... it had a semi hex shape that allowed the socket to fit on it and when turned it would start the truck. (this will get you home or to the dealer) but it was not a positive engagement I would trust for more than a "get me home start"
looking down into the empty barrel i could see a lobe/bump toward THE STEERING COLUMN ON one side of THE REMAINING SHAFT... ie the first part of the remaining shaft was kinda hex (7mm in my case) then down 1/4" it had a lobe on about 1/3 of the shaft.... I ground that 7mm socket to fit down the shaft and positivly engage the lobe.. (C-) and I then filed the broken shaft end of the part I removed to fit the 1/4" drive part of the socket..
I used a short socket, first I ground the 7mm end flat to rid it of the inside bevel, this shortened the socket by maybe 1/16", I then cut a notch in the side of the socket to fit over the lobe on the side of the shaft and let the socket fully seat on the remaining shaft... on the broken part of the shaft I pulled out I filed it so that it would go all the way down into the 1/4 drive end of the socket... so that it would touch the other broken part in the lock.... this required filing the first 1/4" of the shaft round to go down the center of the socket... when doing this I thought I'd add some jb weld and wanted max surface area... I did not use the JB weld.... but I wanted the finished length the same as stock so I wanted the 2 broken parts to meet inside the socket....
now the trick part... these part have to be damn close to aligned to where they were .... so when you file/grind/cut the notch in the side of the socket to key it onto the lobe, that notch has to be in the right place to keep everything where it needs to be to line up to go back together... (keep this in mind BEFORE you cut the notch in the socket) it took me a lot longer to type this up than it did to implement the fix... I happen to think this fix is stronger than it was... the JB weld might have helped but I test fit it... and I lightly drove the socket onto the shaft down in the cylinder bore (i made the notch tight for this reason) I then slipped the "drive end" of the upper broken piece (proper orientation) then pushed the lock cylinder down into the barrel bore with a little jiggling it engaged and snapped into place... worked perfect... it's still going strong... now this is fixed for me... if you are comfortable with these type fixes... this will let you complete a trip...
tools needed 7mm 1/4 drive short socket you won't get back
8"s worth of 1/4 drive extension or rig something if you don't have... like a long flathead screwdriver... need the extension to place the socket on the nub and light taps to drive it on/home
a file or grinder or rotary tool to file the shaft and to notch the socket... that and a Phillips screwdriver and something pointy to release the lock and you are done... I used a file and a flex shaft... hope my words painted enough of a picture... there are several threads on the steps to the lock removal so I did not address that... all in this fix should take less than an hour and you are on the road again with an ignition that works as it did before
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