In my 86 Hilux I can take the key out while driving or whenever. I love that feature! This started at about 200,000 miles. It was especially useful when I lived in Minnesota. I could leave my truck running, and lock it, while I let it warm up.
Ignition key can pull out of tumbler while in drive
- Thread starter CHibbard
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also wondering if anyone has solved this. @gummycarbs brought it to my attention in a different thread that I shouldn't be able to leave the truck in gear, turn the truck off, and remove the key. i've done this multiple times, but each time w/ the parking brake set as I've been daily driving a manual trans and it is muscle memory.
i can't physically remove the key in any position other than LOCK/off
i can't shift out of P without having the key in ACC or ON, and foot on the brake.
i CAN turn the key to LOCK with the trans in D or R, and remove the key
so which solenoid might be acting up? key interlock solenoid is my hunch based on its name, with the fault being the solenoid never turns "on", engaging the lock lever. so where is it or what does it look like? i see in the EWD that it uses pins 7-8 of the connector it shares with the ignition switch and unlock warning switch, so i can probe those pins and check if I'm getting 12V and sort out if its an electrical or mechanical fault.
update: from the parts diagram, it appears it might be a little metal box fastened to the ignition cylinder housing. part number 85432-50010 (replaces 85432-60010), ~$87.
update 2: found some info on this solenoid in the '96 FSM. Under AT-14, the solenoid should have resistance of 12-17 ohms. with the key in ACC and in P, the solenoid should recieve 0V from the shift lock control ecu. with the key in ACC and in a position other than P, the solenoid should receive battery voltage, dropping to 6-9V after ~1 sec. it is screwed to the ignition cylinder housing on the left side.
i can't physically remove the key in any position other than LOCK/off
i can't shift out of P without having the key in ACC or ON, and foot on the brake.
i CAN turn the key to LOCK with the trans in D or R, and remove the key
so which solenoid might be acting up? key interlock solenoid is my hunch based on its name, with the fault being the solenoid never turns "on", engaging the lock lever. so where is it or what does it look like? i see in the EWD that it uses pins 7-8 of the connector it shares with the ignition switch and unlock warning switch, so i can probe those pins and check if I'm getting 12V and sort out if its an electrical or mechanical fault.
update: from the parts diagram, it appears it might be a little metal box fastened to the ignition cylinder housing. part number 85432-50010 (replaces 85432-60010), ~$87.
update 2: found some info on this solenoid in the '96 FSM. Under AT-14, the solenoid should have resistance of 12-17 ohms. with the key in ACC and in P, the solenoid should recieve 0V from the shift lock control ecu. with the key in ACC and in a position other than P, the solenoid should receive battery voltage, dropping to 6-9V after ~1 sec. it is screwed to the ignition cylinder housing on the left side.
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continued troubleshooting
the key interlock solenoid checks out: ~15 ohms which is right in the range of 12-17 that the FSM calls for.
i removed the solenoid from the ignition housing and pushing on the stop pin manually, i can't turn the cylinder from ACC to LOCK. so the stop pin works. just not by the solenoid
running the tests against the shift lock control ecu;
12V between pin 1/ACC and ground with the ignition switch at ACC
12V between pin 3/IG and ground with the ignition switch at ON
12V between pin 6/STP and ground with the ignition on and brake pedal depressed
pin 4/KLS starts at 0V with the shifter in P, jumps to ~10V shifting to R, then nearly immediately drops to ~0.75V while still in R. the FSM says it should go to 10-14, then after 1sec drop to 6-9. putting my thumb on the solenoid, i can feel it energize and extend, then quickly de-energize and the pin can be pushed back in with zero resistance.
so this test is failing. which i think points to the shift lock ecu itself?
the key interlock solenoid checks out: ~15 ohms which is right in the range of 12-17 that the FSM calls for.
i removed the solenoid from the ignition housing and pushing on the stop pin manually, i can't turn the cylinder from ACC to LOCK. so the stop pin works. just not by the solenoid
running the tests against the shift lock control ecu;
12V between pin 1/ACC and ground with the ignition switch at ACC
12V between pin 3/IG and ground with the ignition switch at ON
12V between pin 6/STP and ground with the ignition on and brake pedal depressed
pin 4/KLS starts at 0V with the shifter in P, jumps to ~10V shifting to R, then nearly immediately drops to ~0.75V while still in R. the FSM says it should go to 10-14, then after 1sec drop to 6-9. putting my thumb on the solenoid, i can feel it energize and extend, then quickly de-energize and the pin can be pushed back in with zero resistance.
so this test is failing. which i think points to the shift lock ecu itself?
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Not the shift lock ecu. Swapped in a different one and nothing changed.
I think next to to replace the Ignition switch, which I believe includes the key interlock solenoid. 84450 in the pic is the switch assembly. It does show 85432 as the solenoid, but all the pics I've seen of the switch show the solenoid as part of the assembly. My starter turns over more than I'd like, after rebuilding the starter and replacing all the cables, so I'm thinking my switch needs a refresh anyways. Not looking forward to pulling apart the dash again but oh well.
I think next to to replace the Ignition switch, which I believe includes the key interlock solenoid. 84450 in the pic is the switch assembly. It does show 85432 as the solenoid, but all the pics I've seen of the switch show the solenoid as part of the assembly. My starter turns over more than I'd like, after rebuilding the starter and replacing all the cables, so I'm thinking my switch needs a refresh anyways. Not looking forward to pulling apart the dash again but oh well.
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Did you ever figure this out?
nope. have a new ignition switch but haven't made the time to install it
To be honest I was disappointed that I couldn't pull the key out of the 80 while it was running to run over to the other vehicle and start it and move it, or run back into the house etc. I got used to that with a couple of older Toyotas I had in the past.
But this example makes sense as to why you wouldn't necessarily want the key to be removable while its running.
I definitely could do it in an '88 Van, a '78 Cressida, and MAYBE my '92 Cressida, but I don't remember for sure. Don't think I ever tried it in my 90s pickups.