Identifying an OEM Axle

[LXMarksTheSpot]

Hello,

When I bought my LX470 back in Feb this year, my mechanic replaced both front axles with new aftermarket axles. The axles he took off are still in my garage. I want to go back to OEM axles but I am not sure what I have. The tighten bands hold the boots are not yellow, although I have read enough to assume that is no indicator of OEM. Anything else I can look for to conclude if OEM? If these are OEM I will inspect and then reboot. Ill be posting a picture later tonight. Just looking for obvious signs in the mean time.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If you're rebooting anyway you can open up the boot and see what the joint looks like, lots of aftermarket are just 3 divots, not a full tulip and balls like OEM. Some other tells are length of splines, bands like you mentioned, and shape of joints.

 

[Mike NXP]

Shoot, I'm not a huge help here but maybe the thread below has some clues....Most images I see show the yellow band

Thread 'Front Drive Shaft (AKA CV’s) reboot, Help!'

Mar 19, 2017

Hey guys I’ve got a problem. I used a water based cleaning solvent someone gave me along with parts clean I purchase, to use after solvents' heavy cleaning. Well some of my matchmarks (axle and cage) washed off while cleaning parts. The parts just cleaned in petroleum based solvent still have matchmarks (tulip and race).

So I can orient race same side out and line up with tulip, but cage & axle will probably not be lined up in original position.

I think axle line up is no big deal, but cage may be. IMHO race to tulip line-up is the most import.

What’s your thought’s (other than my...

• 2001LC
• drive drive shaft front help! shaft
• Replies: 26
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

• 

 

[3_puppies]

first question would be are they worth rebooting?
are the outer splines worn?
is the snap ring groove worn?

 

[LXMarksTheSpot]

If you're rebooting anyway you can open up the boot and see what the joint looks like, lots of aftermarket are just 3 divots, not a full tulip and balls like OEM. Some other tells are length of splines, bands like you mentioned, and shape of joints.

Okay. It looks like a full tulip in each. I think there should be about 5 divots in the diff side.

There is a blue mark on the band clamp on the diff side. Not sure if that means anything.

The splins on the diff side have a flat top and they look in good condition.

The length of the diff side spline from beginning to c clip valley is 25.3 mm

The length of the wheel side splice from c clip valley to edge is 35.57 which is the picture below:

 

[Porter]

1) there's a reason the mechanic pulled the OEM CVs and replaced them. What was the reason? 2) Most of us would only accept new OEM CVs, and new drive flanges installed at the same time, but maybe you weren't part of this decision process, or the mechanic is not on top of things or didn't communicate all details. 3) we need to see the alternate side view of the hub side splines. They appear rather worn to me in the pics you provided, so I hope the mechanic pulled the CVs and the flanges and you have all parts to inspect, just for science anyway. 4) Don't waste your time and money rebooting bad CVs, unless you just want a trail spare. 5) Maintaining your hubs, servicing properly will get you many many miles out of a set of CVs, mine ran 405k, and could have run longer. I rebooted the set one time at 275k due to leaking boots.

 

[Patron100LC]

On my last OEM DS ordered from a Toyota dealer only 1 out of 4 bands was yellow, the rest was silver.

Paint went up in price lately I guess..