I can't drive 55

What do you think the issue is?

  • Fuel Delivery

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Carburetor

    Votes: 11 45.8%
  • Vacuum Leak

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • Transmission/Transfer Case

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Ignition Timing

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Clutch

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 5 20.8%

  • Total voters
    24
  • Poll closed .

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Well, it’s Saturday. What is it??????
 
Dude, it's 6:00 am. :) (Actually, this made me smile. I hate reading a whole thread and not having the final resolution.)

Last night I focused on the transfer case. I removed the skid plate and the shifter boot. I removed the whole shifter arm assembly, cleaned it up, reassembled it and lubed it.

Then I watched while I shifted 2H, 4H, 4L. The first thing I noticed is I am missing the dust boot on the 2/4 shaft (36318-60010 I believe). While test driving it, I could see that the front drive shaft is not moving in 2 and is moving in 4, so I conclude that moving from 2-4 is working correctly.

Can anyone compare their H/L position with the following photos?
4L
1728126824112.png

4H
1728127043122.png

2H
1728127258235.png


I am thinking that, if it is the transfer case, it's not getting into high. I am also missing the Shift Lever Guide, so at one point I was able to shift UP from 4L which made me think* that the linkage could be positioned incorrectly. I am going to try and disconnect the H/L link and shift it by hand (after the sun comes up).

* Actually, the first thing I thought is I have an Australian Transfer Case, because everything else on this truck is ass backwards. :)
 
Last edited:
When Matt came over, we couldn’t get the transfer to shift into 2H. It was fine, smooth even, going from 4H - N - 4L and back.

I showed him how easy mine went to and through all 4 spots. I had to run and he went over to a sports stadium complex to try and coax shorty into 2H. No dice.

I’m wondering ( and I have limited experience here), if something got put in backwards and/or not connected in the t case at some point.

I didn’t drive the truck but all the symptoms, especially the “not being able to push the stick into 2H (but previously/later could?)” is the smoking gun.

That’s all I got.
 
Dude, it's 6:00 am. :) (Actually, this made me smile. I hate reading a whole thread and not having the final resolution.)

Last night I focused on the transfer case. I removed the skid plate and the shifter boot. I removed the whole shifter arm assembly, cleaned it up, reassembled it and lubed it.

Then I watched while I shifted 2H, 4H, 4L. The first thing I noticed is I am missing the dust boot on the 2/4 shaft (36318-60010 I believe). While test driving it, I could see that the front drive shaft is not moving in 2 and is moving in 4, so I conclude that moving from 2-4 is working correctly.

Can anyone compare their H/L position with the following photos?
4L
View attachment 3742327
4H
View attachment 3742328
2H
View attachment 3742329

I am thinking that, if it is the transfer case, it's not getting into high. I am also missing the Shift Lever Guide, so at one point I was able to shift UP from 4L which made me think* that the linkage could be positioned incorrectly. I am going to try and disconnect the H/L link and shift it by hand (after the sun comes up).

* Actually, the first thing I thought is I have an Australian Transfer Case, because everything else on this truck is ass backwards. :)
I’m working nights so I posted that at 2:20 am my time….. Couldn't wait any longer!
 
Midday update,
  • Tachometer installed, I am shifting at 25-2800 RPM. I can only get to 2100 RPM in 4th gear.
  • Timing is on the ball at idle.
  • Checking the Distributor Manual Advance I can rotate the rotor a little clockwise and it springs back. Pressing the octane selector in and it springs back.
  • Checking the Transfer Case shifter and I am confident that it is shifting from 2H, 4H, N, 4L. What I am not certain of is if the transfer case gears are engaging in High and Low. If someone knows how I can test that without removing the TC, I'd like to hear it.
I am going to pull the throttle cable and check the throttle link and the accelerator pedal next.
 
Midday update,
  • Tachometer installed, I am shifting at 25-2800 RPM. I can only get to 2100 RPM in 4th gear.
  • Timing is on the ball at idle.
  • Checking the Distributor Manual Advance I can rotate the rotor a little clockwise and it springs back. Pressing the octane selector in and it springs back.
  • Checking the Transfer Case shifter and I am confident that it is shifting from 2H, 4H, N, 4L. What I am not certain of is if the transfer case gears are engaging in High and Low. If someone knows how I can test that without removing the TC, I'd like to hear it.
I am going to pull the throttle cable and check the throttle link and the accelerator pedal next.
You’d know if it’s not going between high or low. In first gear, it’d be screaming and you’d be going about 5 mph. Could literally take off from a stop in 4th gear and it’d be fine.

Did you verify if pedal is fully depressed that your butterfly(s) at carb are fully opening?

Is your timing set with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum hose plugged?

I’d try bumping the timing so the ball is right at the leading edge of the sight window. So BB would be on the left edge of window, furthest away from the block. But even with that extra few degrees, I’d shift 3000 rpm min and 2100 in 4th is much lower than it should get to regardless.
 
Obviously this is Matt’s show here, but I just left his place after dropping my son off nearby and let me just state a couple observations:
1) wow, this carb. I’ve seen funnels more complicated. While we got the carb/acceleration more “buttoned up”. It's not the problem.
2) I think it’s stuck in H4. Sounds like it, feels like it, looks like it (shifter goes a fraction of what mine does when in H2), like 1/2 or less).

Took both trucks for a spin and halfway through the ride in mine, threw it in H4 and it acted like Matt’s truck for the most part.

I left him to his own devices and I came home to tweak my stupid Weber some more.

IMG_2465.jpeg
 
I was curious so went for a drive - I'm running 32's and the stock 4.11s. If you really tried, you could get 45-50 in low-range and 4th, but she'd be screaming at 4k+ off the (non existent) rev limiter to get there.

2100 in 2H sounds about right for around 45ish...so seems power related vs gearing. Does it seem like it's laboring/binding, or just running out of steam?
 
You’d know if it’s not going between high or low. In first gear, it’d be screaming and you’d be going about 5 mph. Could literally take off from a stop in 4th gear and it’d be fine.

Did you verify if pedal is fully depressed that your butterfly(s) at carb are fully opening?

Is your timing set with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum hose plugged?

I’d try bumping the timing so the ball is right at the leading edge of the sight window. So BB would be on the left edge of window, furthest away from the block. But even with that extra few degrees, I’d shift 3000 rpm min and 2100 in 4th is much lower than it should get to regardless.
With the help of @RevISK we pulled the throttle cable and made sure it was moving well in the housing. We confirmed that the throttle was not opening fully with the pedal on the floor. So after a bit of monkeying around we got the right combination of pedal and cable adjustment to get WOT.

Timing is 7* with the vacuum advance disconnected.

On the test ride, as @RevISK said, we got it to go "faster" but it still act like its working too hard. Which brings us back to the question about the Transfer Case not getting fully into 2WD. In the last picture here: I can't drive 55 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/i-cant-drive-55.1347969/post-15663664 can anyone confirm that the shaft is deep enough into the transfer case?

I noticed that the Cone on the Transfer case is very rusty. Is it possible that there is an issue with the TC that I can check without removing it from the truck?
 
I was curious so went for a drive - I'm running 32's and the stock 4.11s. If you really tried, you could get 45-50 in low-range and 4th, but she'd be screaming at 4k+ off the (non existent) rev limiter to get there.

2100 in 2H sounds about right for around 45ish...so seems power related vs gearing. Does it seem like it's laboring/binding, or just running out of steam?
It definitely feels like it's working harder than it should.

I'll be checking compression tomorrow.
 
I have never noticed any real difference between 2H and 4H for speed, better gas mileage in 2H with the hubs out.
It felt and sounded “more engaged”.
 
Dug this out of my resto archives - that's the TC in high range. The rubber grommet would be captive in each of the grooves, so it looks pretty similar to your original photo as yours doesn't have the boot.


View attachment 3743005
Yes, that spacing looks the same as mine. Thanks
 
I am collecting a list of missing parts. So far I have:
  • Dust Boot: 36318-60010
  • Shift Lever Guide: 36323-60010
Are there marks on the TC that would hint at the year of production so I can be sure I am getting the correct part? (Based on diagrams I have the post 4/75 configuration.)
 
I just had another thought, I haven't rebuilt or even disassembled my distributor. I have only done static testing of the vacuum advance.
Is there a test that I can run to prove that the vacuum advance is working correctly? (Since this is related to the Rochester carb...)

If I remove the vacuum advance assembly, are there serviceable parts? (Photo in earlier posts.)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom