- Thread starter
- #361
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I am yet again bringing you a Head-gasket rebuild thread
- Thread starter JM74
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That reading is with key OFF?
If so, then, reattach the battery cable and detach each of the fusible links to determine which circuit is drawing the juice.
- Thread starter
- #363
Just to be sure, can you turn the engine over by hand?
- Thread starter
- #365
Can’t really access the main crank bolt without pulling the fan and shroud...
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- #366
Never mind got a crescent up from the bottom, engine spins freely left and right, phewff
Excellent. any chance you've got a spare battery to swap into this pig?Never mind got a crescent up from the bottom, engine spins freely left and right, phewff
- Thread starter
- #368
Man I wish, just tiny little things out of lawnmowers and jetskis... don’t think those will cut it..
There are (3) wires from the fusible link.
What I meant to say was, also attach the main part of the fusible link to the battery cable, then unhook each one separately, and check the draw across each of the separate wires. This will isolate which circuit of the three that is drawing the current. Then you know to look in the engine compartment, the interior or ?.
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- #370
Sounds good will do and report back, thank you so much for the help!!
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- #371
Ok so on the little black box the smaller 10mm link is drawing around 17 and the larger 12mm is around 80. The third wire with the connector is at 0
Ok so on the little black box the smaller 10mm link is drawing around 17 and the larger 12mm is around 80. The third wire with the connector is at 0
This isn't an excessive draw problem, if it was, then putting your multimeter in line with the vehicle would blow the fuse in the meter instantly or melt it's cables. You are reading mA which is normal and would take weeks to drain a full battery.
You need to test the voltage AT the battery while attempting to use some power in the vehicle. Turn the head lights on. Do they come on? Are they bright or dim? Now, with them on measure the voltage on the lead part of the battery terminal, directly on the battery, NOT on the vehicle's hook up terminals. Note it. Now measure the voltage ON the terminals. Is there a big difference?
If not, if the lights are bright and voltage is the same on the battery as well as the terminal then try the same measurements but with turning the key on, ready to start, the point where you say everything is dim. Take the same two voltage measurements. If they are the same, test the voltage at the output side of each of the fusible links. Somewhere in this, you have a bad/loose/corroded connection (or two).
You need to test the voltage AT the battery while attempting to use some power in the vehicle. Turn the head lights on. Do they come on? Are they bright or dim? Now, with them on measure the voltage on the lead part of the battery terminal, directly on the battery, NOT on the vehicle's hook up terminals. Note it. Now measure the voltage ON the terminals. Is there a big difference?
If not, if the lights are bright and voltage is the same on the battery as well as the terminal then try the same measurements but with turning the key on, ready to start, the point where you say everything is dim. Take the same two voltage measurements. If they are the same, test the voltage at the output side of each of the fusible links. Somewhere in this, you have a bad/loose/corroded connection (or two).
- Thread starter
- #373
Holy heck... went to go do the light Test to see if they were dim.. forgot to plug in the drivers side when assembly last night in the haze of everthing. Just plugged them in and the truck started no problem. Sorry guys
- Thread starter
- #374
Now time to figure out this thermostat!
You plugged in the drivers side headlight and now the truck starts?
Ummmm. I think you bumped something that was loose. Most likely you still have a loose connection that will rear it's head again soon.
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- #376
Yeah all it took... seemed odd
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- #377
Well she’s going, no thermostat in her still, coolant is sticking around 130-118f off my obd2 readout. She drives nice...
Engine is letting off a little smell but I think it’s just all the new gaskets and sealants and old cleaner residue in there...
Stick the Toyota thermostat back in her?
Engine is letting off a little smell but I think it’s just all the new gaskets and sealants and old cleaner residue in there...
Stick the Toyota thermostat back in her?
You should not drive around with engine temps that low for much. A test run or two won't hurt, but you won't even get overdrive enabled until things warm up properly.
If you think the Toyota one is opening at 190, go get a cheap aftermarket one to test against and see if they open at similar values. I thought the stock unit was a 180, but I'm not sure.
If you think the Toyota one is opening at 190, go get a cheap aftermarket one to test against and see if they open at similar values. I thought the stock unit was a 180, but I'm not sure.
- Thread starter
- #379
I had a cheap Gates in there previously and its out aswell, i tired it boiling and it was opening around the same as the new Toyota one i have..
I though stock was 185 or 180 aswell but both seem to begin opening around 194 and then are fully opened around 203
I understand your caution with overheating the truck, especially with a head gasket job since the job is usually caused by an overheating engine in the first place. I don't remember what you did to address potential cooling issues, but I would try running the Toyota one and see what the truck gets to. Getting it up to 200-210 isn't going to hurt it, and it should settle down to something lower than that. I don't remember exactly what mine runs on the OBD at this moment.