I am yet again bringing you a Head-gasket rebuild thread

[JM74]

The gauge sensor could be an issue.

There are two temp sensors. One for the gauge and one for EFI. The EFI sensor is the one that feeds the OBD

So likelyhood is I’m just paranoid and this is running fine now... if that is the correct reading on the EFI sensor

The valve cover and head just seem awfully hot to the touch... it has me concerned

 

[cruiserdan]

If you grab a valve cover or cylinder head when the engine is at NORMAL operating temperature you are going to get fried.

 

[JM74]

If you grab a valve cover or cylinder head when the engine is at NORMAL operating temperature you are going to get fried.

Ok sounds good!! So temps like that seem normal, man my stomach is in a knot, most of my savings are into this rebuild now lol. Your the man Dan I really appreciate the reply’s!!!!

Time for headlights and bumpers then test drive

Going to order a new temp sensor and a Toyota supercharger themostate... I think those exist from reading one of joeys really old engine cooling threads...

 

[JM74]

 

[JM74]

Hmm not starting anymore... turn the key and just a loud click then nothing... fuesable link?

 

[BILT4ME]

On the cooling system:
Did you "burp" the system to clear all the air? Front end up, radiator cap off, run until it just starts to overflow, then cap on, make sure reservoir is filled to the line and the reservoir (overflow) cap is installed and oriented correctly.

Let it cool, lather, rinse, repeat.

 

[BILT4ME]

Hmm not starting anymore... turn the key and just a loud click then nothing... fuesable link?

Do you have a CEL with key in run position?

 

[BILT4ME]

Do you have a CEL with key in run position?

If yes, fusible links good.
If no, fusible links need to be checked.
Then check sensors for wire connections

 

[JM74]

On the cooling system:
Did you "burp" the system to clear all the air? Front end up, radiator cap off, run until it just starts to overflow, then cap on, make sure reservoir is filled to the line and the reservoir (overflow) cap is installed and oriented correctly.

Let it cool, lather, rinse, repeat.

No haven’t done the full burp process yet, I will need the tires on for it, but yes am familiar with it.. it just seemed like the head and valve cover were getting abnormally hot but maybe I’m just miss informed

 

[JM74]

If yes, fusible links good.
If no, fusible links need to be checked.
Then check sensors for wire connections

Yes CEL when key is in run

 

[JM74]

It turns on heaters blowing and all, cel on, but then just a loud click and nothing, dash goes dead too

 

[cruiserdan]

Hmm not starting anymore... turn the key and just a loud click then nothing... fuesable link?

Possible starter contacts or low battery voltage.

 

[JM74]

Possible starter contacts or low battery voltage.

Battery was on trickle charge for a day or so but honestly could be as I started the truck a bunch and didn’t let it run long

 

[BILT4ME]

It turns on heaters blowing and all, cel on, but then just a loud click and nothing, dash goes dead too

Yup, check battery cables, make sure your alternator is plugged in, make sure you installed your ground straps.

And check your battery voltage. Anything 12.5 V and lower means it's "dead". Should be 13-13.5V at rest.

 

[JM74]

Alright that’s all she wrote for me tonight folks, battery is on trickle charge. I’ll keep posted in the morning. Homeowner of the shop is asleep and I can’t boost of his car tonight anyways...

 

[BILT4ME]

Alright that’s all she wrote for me tonight folks, battery is on trickle charge. I’ll keep posted in the morning. Homeowner of the shop is asleep and I can’t boost of his car tonight anyways...

Ride safely as you pedal home in the dark........

 

[JM74]

Ride safely as you pedal home in the dark........

Haha thanks dude!! Lots of coyotes howling up on the hill

ToMorrow that bike will be in the backseat fingers crossed

 

[JoeW]

It turns on heaters blowing and all, cel on, but then just a loud click and nothing, dash goes dead too

Make sure your grounds are good and secure. That to me sounds like the ground from the block to the battery is loose.

 

[JM74]

Make sure your grounds are good and secure. That to me sounds like the ground from the block to the battery is loose.

Any idea what ground it could be? From my understanding there are 4 grounds coming off the block. One on the head near the heater valve and then one on the engine pulling point and 2 on the intake manifolds

 

[JoeW]

From experience on other cars, if it just clicks when attempting to start, it's usually from the motor to the chassis or battery.
I've figured out volt drops by doing the following:

1. Check voltage at the battery posts. As stated before, should be 12.5v or higher but regardless of what it is, this is your spec for the next check
2. Check voltage at the cable itself. Compare to voltage from #1
3. With your positive lead on the B+ post, put the negative lead on the fender ground bolt, then on the lifting hook on the head (or similar) The voltage should be the same or very very close to voltage at your posts from #1

My guess is it's the large guage main ground from the battery to the block is finger tight. On the cars I have seen with similar symptoms of interior lights/ accessories working but starter just clicks, it's been the block to battery or chassis ground. You probably at least had the firewall and block one off to do the head.