- Thread starter
- #381
Sounds good I’m about to give it a try, going to try catching as much coolant as possible
I am yet again bringing you a Head-gasket rebuild thread
- Thread starter JM74
- Start date
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Also, don't forget to install the gasket around the T-Stat and make sure the jiggle valve is at the top.
My 96 runs about 179'F on cool days and will spike about 202'F if I'm pushing hard. I have an all new cooling system 6 years ago.........and 94K miles ago......
See @Kernal post #2 on this thread:
90916-03117
forum.ih8mud.com
90916-03117
thermostat for 97 lx450/ 170* or 180*
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #385
Same number as mine... guess it just opening a bit hot. Also I’m using a cheap meat thermometer to measure the water temp when I’m testing on the stoveSee @Kernal post #2 on this thread:
90916-03117
thermostat for 97 lx450/ 170* or 180*
- Thread starter
- #387
Thermostat is in time to give this a try
It seems like it takes forever to get this truck up to the 190 temp range
- Thread starter
- #388
Well there she goes! Bleed the system for about 25 mins, thermostat opened around 187 on the odb readout. No more air bubble, Rad cap back on. Holding temp at a steady 190-192
Looks good! Job well done
- Thread starter
- #390
Appreciate
appreciate it man! And thank you all who helped so much! You all walked me through this, truely wouldn’t have been able to do it without!!
I would unplug the headlight again and see what happens.
- Thread starter
- #393
Update: not sure what's going on with that headlight, it seems to work somewhat but it's also very finicky with the wiring placement, seems to go out a lot and then I wiggle the wires and it back on, also the truck runs fine with it unplugged..
On another note, the door lock button no longer works... it works to unlock the doors but when you try and lock them it doesn't work and same with the passenger-side button
Lastly, lock thud under drivers foot when going over little bumps in the road, I'm assuming this is the control arm bushing as i know they are bad and I have a new OEM set in a box.. these all need replacing in the front
Got out for some snow wheeling spent the whole day triple-locked in high, it was a great boxing day!
I wish I could upload a video, the supercharger was howling with the cold air it was getting, sounds great!
On another note, the door lock button no longer works... it works to unlock the doors but when you try and lock them it doesn't work and same with the passenger-side button
Lastly, lock thud under drivers foot when going over little bumps in the road, I'm assuming this is the control arm bushing as i know they are bad and I have a new OEM set in a box.. these all need replacing in the front
Got out for some snow wheeling spent the whole day triple-locked in high, it was a great boxing day!
I wish I could upload a video, the supercharger was howling with the cold air it was getting, sounds great!
- Thread starter
- #394
Little undercoat job the other day, the fellas did a nice job I have too say. Let me wash it off first and stored it inside to heat it up and dry off.
Sale on some tires, may have to bite the bullet and pick up a new set... we’ll see though, my current ones are no longer balanced and shake around 80 and 60 and 120haha
Going to hopefully get some new front control arm bushings pushed in next week... if work allows haha
Sale on some tires, may have to bite the bullet and pick up a new set... we’ll see though, my current ones are no longer balanced and shake around 80 and 60 and 120haha
Going to hopefully get some new front control arm bushings pushed in next week... if work allows haha
- Thread starter
- #395
Been about 2 tanks of gas through the rebuild now, noticing that I’m getting a foul smell from the engine bay and it appears to be coming from the pcv catch can I installed... also noticed that When i pulled the dipstick for the pcv catch can while the truck was running there was a lot of air or pressure in the lines and it hissed out the dipstick hole.
I have a 3/8 barbed check valve and was thinking of installing it inline here as to retain pressure to the brake booster... wondering what people’s opinion on this are.
This is how my pcv routing is but I have installed a catch can on the green line
Here are some additional pictures:
I have a 3/8 barbed check valve and was thinking of installing it inline here as to retain pressure to the brake booster... wondering what people’s opinion on this are.
This is how my pcv routing is but I have installed a catch can on the green line
Here are some additional pictures:
- Thread starter
- #396
Also something in transmission or transfer case seems to be slipping. Noticed it last night while packing down a trail with the wife. Slipped off the packed path and was in the deep snow so I locked it up and tried to bump myself back onto the trial. In high range while locked with CDL and rear DIFF on its making a grinding noise / spin while in reverse under load but on in high range. In low range there isn’t a grinding noise and it just works. Any ideas?
- Thread starter
- #397
Nevermind, upon further searching it seems this is a common thing with the 97 A343F transmission and there are a few TSBs about adding some balls
( haha)to the valve body. I will not be doing this in the winter in the driveway so it’s added to the list and maybe come spring if I have time. For now low range reverse works.
And be very careful going hard on the throttle in reverse. You may junk your front ring and pinion. This is a known issue.
One guy broke his pulling a shrub out of his yard.
One guy broke his pulling a shrub out of his yard.
- Thread starter
- #399
Yes have always heard this! Quite gentle on it never really bouncing on anything especially in the snow!
Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #400
To be concerned about? Exhaust smokes as per usual when starting but it’s -10c and snowing so it’s burning off condensation to my knowledge. Oil on dipstick looks great. There is some milky residue/oil that has been getting collected in the pcv catch can which I’m assuming is again from the cold and condensation...
