Build Hybrid FJ79/62 Series Build
- Thread starter MSGGrunt
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- Thread starter
- #142
Not sure how a 79 or 75 series tank would fit in my 80 series frame. And I bet the cost of a new one, used are not common in the US, would probably be more than a custom built tank built to fit the rear of the truck. Man-A-Fre sells a 24 gallon tank for $1700.00 dollars, but again, I bet I can have a custom aluminium tank built cheaper than that. And the custom tank would use the OEM 80's sender, pump, vent, etc... And I could have the filler neck on the tank put anywhere I need it to match up to the rear passenger's side gas filler on the bed.
Clint..that link is broken or it doesn't go to the right page...I would like to see how the made this work b/c on my 80 frame its too tight.
I can tell you that the 75 won't work on the 80 frame and 79 cab. Its close but no cigar. I think it will work with a body lift but it won't fit between the cab an frame rail. The dove tail in the frame doesn't help either. I'm not sure if I will end up using mine or not. It gonna take a good bit of work to get it to fit.
I can tell you that the 75 won't work on the 80 frame and 79 cab. Its close but no cigar. I think it will work with a body lift but it won't fit between the cab an frame rail. The dove tail in the frame doesn't help either. I'm not sure if I will end up using mine or not. It gonna take a good bit of work to get it to fit.
- Thread starter
- #145
Boyd sounds very customer friendly. I have attached a link from Pirate.com. I think I'll take some measurements and see how much an EFI ready fuel tank will be that will fit in the rear frame area. Send them my fuel pump and sending unit and have them incorporate that into the design of the tank.
Boyd Welding LLC — Custom Aluminum Diesel Fuel and Gas Tanks
Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
Boyd Welding LLC — Custom Aluminum Diesel Fuel and Gas Tanks
Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
- Thread starter
- #147
If I have to buy a tank, say a 75/79 series tank, then I would prefer to buy a custom made tank for the rear of the truck. I would bet finding a 75/79 series tank here in the US wouldn't be all that easy nor cheap, especially if we are talking possibly ordering a new tank. The custom tank would be aluminium and brand new. Just my opinion, but "making" something fit sometimes isn't worth it to save a few dollars if it isn't 100% correct. I'd rather spend the money and do it right.
If your going custom , i would still be getting it made under the cab and I guess to get maximum fuel cap you would go with a very similar style to the factory tank.
I would leave the rear end of the chassis for the spare tyre
I would leave the rear end of the chassis for the spare tyre
- Thread starter
- #149
The spare will go in the bed up against the headache rack where I believe the stock 79 series spare is located. The tank in the back will be much easier to design and will be much like the aux tanks sold for the 80 series. I am not looking for 60 plus gallons of fuel capacity as this will not be an overland expedition type of truck. I will be happy if the tank holds 25 to 30 gallons.
- Thread starter
- #150
In my 79 hybrid build I will be using the 1FZFE with the 80 series A343F auto transmission. I see that some 73 and 75 series came with the same combination. I'm looking for a source for a LHD center console and shifter out of one of these trucks. I'm hoping that a 70/73/75/78 series auto shifter out of a truck with the 1FZFE/A342F configuration will work in the 79 series. Opinions on using this shifter and if it will work are welcome. Any source for these? Probably not North America I bet. Like the picture below, but preferably from a LHD truck.
- Thread starter
- #153
The catalytic converter hang down too low, shocker right? I'm thinking either cut and turn them or replace with a single high flow converter. MA has no emissions law on anything 15 plus years and older, but I still don't want to have to stare at a check engine light that is on all the time.
- Thread starter
- #154
Now I can work on the bed. For the tires to be centered in the wheel openings I will have to cut off 13" from the front of the bed. It measures 31 3/8" from the back of the cab to the rear axle center-line.
Question, how much room/space should I leave between the back of the cab and the front of the bed? I'm thinking about 1" Opinions???
After removing 13" from the bed I will be left with an inside bed length of 6' 4 1/2"
Question, how much room/space should I leave between the back of the cab and the front of the bed? I'm thinking about 1" Opinions???
After removing 13" from the bed I will be left with an inside bed length of 6' 4 1/2"
- Thread starter
- #155
Now I have to fabricate the two front cab mounts and cut the 13" off the bed so I can lower the bed onto the frame and work on designing the bed mounts. I'm a bit nervous about taking a cut-off wheel to the bed, but it has to be done.
I want to get the bed lowered on the frame and see just how much my skinny 9.00 x 16 tires stick out beyond the body. I'm hoping not too much.
I want to get the bed lowered on the frame and see just how much my skinny 9.00 x 16 tires stick out beyond the body. I'm hoping not too much.
The gab in between the cab and the bed varies from vehicle to vehicle. Not a constant gap that I have seen among the 75/79.
Looks great. Stretch the frame. The amount of work to make the shortened bed look good is more than lengthening the frame, including having to lengthen wiring, hydraulic lines, etc. Do you really want to cut over 1' out of a factory brand new bed? Just my stinky $.02
- Thread starter
- #159
1TonToy
Stretching the frame is WAY more work than just shortening the bed 13" I thought about going that route in the beginning of the build, but lengthening the 80's frame isn't easy and then I would need a new rear drive shaft, new brake lines, new fuel lines, different E brake cable, lengthen the rear wiring harness, etc... A lot of work...
And after seeing a shortened bed version that Proffitt's built I like the shorter bed look much better. I know we all have our own opinions, but the look of the 7.5 foot stock bed just looks too long for the truck.
This is a picture of a 79 with a shortened bed from Proffitt's.
Stretching the frame is WAY more work than just shortening the bed 13" I thought about going that route in the beginning of the build, but lengthening the 80's frame isn't easy and then I would need a new rear drive shaft, new brake lines, new fuel lines, different E brake cable, lengthen the rear wiring harness, etc... A lot of work...
And after seeing a shortened bed version that Proffitt's built I like the shorter bed look much better. I know we all have our own opinions, but the look of the 7.5 foot stock bed just looks too long for the truck.
This is a picture of a 79 with a shortened bed from Proffitt's.
You're gonna want more than 1"... I thought about only doing 1" on mine but I ended up with going with approx 1.5" You need to allow plenty of room for body flex. Better to have a little bit too much than not enough. Basically I just stuck a 2"x4" between the cab and bed as a spacer and built my mounts from there. Fabbing the bed mounts is relatively easy as the mounting holes are almost directly over the center of the frame.
The cutting the bed or stretching the frame is a hard call...personally I couldn't bring myself to cut into a brand new bed I just paid good money for. If I had it to do over I would have tried to buy just a cab and built a tray for the back.
The cutting the bed or stretching the frame is a hard call...personally I couldn't bring myself to cut into a brand new bed I just paid good money for. If I had it to do over I would have tried to buy just a cab and built a tray for the back.