How to remove the timing chain?

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M

Markoloma

10 Year
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
46
So about 3 years ago I picked up a 91 80 series with the 3fe. I've always loved these land cruisers but never had one till then. It gave me tons of problems with not starting right and I knew nothing about the different engines or locker options. I been searching ever since to get a 93+ with factory lockers. Long story short I never wanted to pay up for one. So last week I bought a 94 that needs a head gasket. I always loved working on toyotas but never dealt with a timing chain or inline6. I searched everywhere for the dvd that is talked about "Doug from Idaho"? I couldn't find it. I lost patience and started tearing down the engine. Only having a couple hours after work to do it I'm stuck on how to take off the timing chain. Any secrets before I break something? The rest seems fairly self explanatory. Is there a tensioner like belts have? Any advice would be amazing!
Also how do you tell if the head is warped and if I need it machined?
My plan is so far I ordered

Head gasket kit (oem Toyota)
Aisin water pump
Ngk wire set
Denso iridium plugs
Snorkel
Thermostat
Phh

Any other things I should consider? Truck has 177k miles. Very dirty engine. Assuming leaky valve cover can make things VERY ugly.

Thank you!

Also any cleaning advice?
 
Get the oem spark plug wires, rotor, and dist. Cap.

Purple cleaner or a simple green mix would do well for degreasing.

There are many rebuild threads on here that would help guide you better than my advice. Also, do a search for trollhole and FSM for a hell of a price. There is a link to the downloadable FSM.
 
Looking at it from the front towards the windshield, the tensor will be on your left hand side by thermostat two 12mm bolts I believe might be 14mm, slowly undo those two bolts, have engine top dead, timing chain gear should have dot,it would s also keyed, run piece wire throu the link at top to mark it, hold cam and undo the gear bolt, pull it off don't let the chain fall down the hole and hold tension on it while rotating
 
Use straight edge across the head to tell if it is warped, don't turn the head upside down unless you are holding lifters and such
 
grizzlygibbs said:
Get the oem spark plug wires, rotor, and dist. Cap.

Purple cleaner or a simple green mix would do well for degreasing.

There are many rebuild threads on here that would help guide you better than my advice. Also, do a search for trollhole and FSM for a hell of a price. There is a link to the downloadable FSM.
Click to expand...

So I order the oem Toyota dist. Cap and rotor. The oem wires are 70 bucks more than ngk. I've always used ngk. What would be the benefit of getting oem wires?
 
ajax1 said:
Looking at it from the front towards the windshield, the tensor will be on your left hand side by thermostat two 12mm bolts I believe might be 14mm, slowly undo those two bolts, have engine top dead, timing chain gear should have dot,it would s also keyed, run piece wire throu the link at top to mark it, hold cam and undo the gear bolt, pull it off don't let the chain fall down the hole and hold tension on it while rotating
Click to expand...


I rushed it and un did the rockers. Thought the timing chain would slide off if I pulled the cam up from the rear but it didn't. I already pulled the sleeve tensioner out. (Will it need a new gasket?)

So to remove the chain I need to undo the nut? How do I know if engine is top dead?
 
ajax1 said:
Looking at it from the front towards the windshield, the tensor will be on your left hand side by thermostat two 12mm bolts I believe might be 14mm, slowly undo those two bolts, have engine top dead, timing chain gear should have dot,it would s also keyed, run piece wire throu the link at top to mark it, hold cam and undo the gear bolt, pull it off don't let the chain fall down the hole and hold tension on it while rotating
Click to expand...

This is what I have so far

image.webp
 
Well you check top dead by aligning crank at top dead then look at the cams for the dots the timing chain gear has a dot it should be at 12 o'clock, or cylinder 1 is at top, distributor should be pointing at number 1 on the plugs, so hold the cam and undo that bolt at the gear that and take off chain gear pulls off
 
Yo
ajax1 said:
Well you check top dead by aligning crank at top dead then look at the cams for the dots the timing chain gear has a dot it should be at 12 o'clock, or cylinder 1 is at top, distributor should be pointing at number 1 on the plugs, so hold the cam and undo that bolt at the gear that and take off chain gear pulls off
Click to expand...


You're a life saver my friend. Got me driving to the shop eager to pull that thing off.
 
69LC said:
i read somewhere that if you drive your 80 really fast across a bumpy remote desert, the chain will remove itself.
Click to expand...

I heard the state of California has determined this only happens to people in the state of California. Just like the warnings on spray cans, etc. :hillbilly:
 
Pin_Head said:
What makes you think the timing chain is bad? The reason I ask is it is a big job.


To remove it you need to remove:
1. Head
2. Oil pans.
3. Timing chain cover along with the crank nut and pulley.
Click to expand...

I need to change my head gasket. Can't really do that with the chain in tact.
 
Sounds like you really need an FSM. There's lots of helpful folks here but most of this has been discussed in several threads. There's a couple motor rebuild threads in FAQ and I bet a head gasket or two write ups as well.

Way to dig into it, the book will make you that much more successfull. I think it will answer most your questions and is the preferred resource to follow for this task. IdahoDougs did is nice to follow along but it glances over a few steps and is more of an accompanying guide to the FSM. Best of luck with the rebuild
 
jfz80 said:
Sounds like you really need an FSM. There's lots of helpful folks here but most of this has been discussed in several threads. There's a couple motor rebuild threads in FAQ and I bet a head gasket or two write ups as well.

Way to dig into it, the book will make you that much more successfull. I think it will answer most your questions and is the preferred resource to follow for this task. IdahoDougs did is nice to follow along but it glances over a few steps and is more of an accompanying guide to the FSM. Best of luck with the rebuild
Click to expand...

Thanks man! The manual should come in Monday. Bought one off amazon for like 15 bucks. I would need it regardless for all the torque specs. I just couldn't wait anymore. I wanted to get down and into it.really appreciate all the feedback.


I did see lots of guys were machining the heads and valve jobs... Is that really necessary?
 
Necessary is a funny term in this group :)

If it's straight and true I'd leave it alone. If you do plane it you can use the stock gasket or order a cometic gasket of correlating thickness to amount removed to get it back to stock height/compression.

As to a valve job it would be somewhat dependent on miles and condition, oils use, your level of OCD, your budget. While it's off and you're in there is the time to do it and since it sounds like you didn't drive it before to know it doesn't seem like a bad idea. Mine is just now starting a small puff of blue smoke on first accell after cold start but I'm at 287k

Ngk are better than some other options but I'd almost be tempted to splurge (I know, easy to do with your $ from here) but I was sold when I replaced my original 95 wires in 2008. Was having no issues just doing a tune up at 200k mark. At least compare price to a denso set that might fall somewhere between but is OEM supplier.
 
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