HOW TO: Detailed DIY for Remote Start/Alarm/Keyless Entry

[LSDbrand]

Hello all, here is un update with a video.

what is happening is the alarm is not sending the signal, just for reference, i ordered a new alarm in case that was the problem

have a look, super strange.

What i dont know now is if i have to program the viper to send a negative pulse?

If you said where you are picking up these wires, I missed it. I am assuming the I13 or factory LX security connector.

If so, the viper blue unlock wire needs to be connected to the lexus B-Y wire, with diode. IF the viper works identical to compustar, you can wire the viper orange-white to the Lexus LG wire, with diode, as the viper should send a ground on that wire at the same time as unlock The other way is to Y the viper blue wire to both the Lexus wires, diodes on both.

Lock is simpler. Viper green to Lexus

 

[jht3]

what is happening is the alarm is not sending the signal, just for reference, i ordered a new alarm in case that was the problem

What i dont know now is if i have to program the viper to send a negative pulse?

do you have a multi-meter? use that to verify whether the Viper is actually grounding the lock and unlock wires. the Viper itself has a solid ground? I think so based on the unit making noise and blinking blue, but verify that as well.

you do not need to program the Viper lock/unlock wires; they are already configured for a 500mA negative ground pulse. Do you have the full install manual?

 

[LSDbrand]

do you have a multi-meter? use that to verify whether the Viper is actually grounding the lock and unlock wires. the Viper itself has a solid ground? I think so based on the unit making noise and blinking blue, but verify that as well.

you do not need to program the Viper lock/unlock wires; they are already configured for a 500mA negative ground pulse. Do you have the full install manual?

Yeah, its grounded so it makes the soudns and all that

i cant check on the multimeter since the pulse its only 0.8 seconds.

another thing i noticed is if i need to plug in a cable for the ign signal, just wondering.

I have the manual that came with the alarm, not as much info as i would like but i do have it.

thanks a lot everyone!

 

[jht3]

Yeah, its grounded so it makes the soudns and all that

i cant check on the multimeter since the pulse its only 0.8 seconds.

another thing i noticed is if i need to plug in a cable for the ign signal, just wondering.

I have the manual that came with the alarm, not as much info as i would like but i do have it.

thanks a lot everyone!

search for the Viper 5701 installation guide pdf. i think everything still applies to the one you have.

yea, you won't be able to watch the numbers change. my DMM is fast enough to pick that up in continuity mode w/ beep.

are you remote starting? if not, you don't need to use that harness at all

 

[LSDbrand]

search for the Viper 5701 installation guide pdf. i think everything still applies to the one you have.

yea, you won't be able to watch the numbers change. my DMM is fast enough to pick that up in continuity mode w/ beep.

are you remote starting? if not, you don't need to use that harness at all

at this point i just want this thing to close and open, no remote start if i cant even get this one going, hahah, now im wondering if the light green cable is just not connected to anything.

anyone know the logic of that cable or were to find it on the main door harness to tap it and check? thanks

 

[jht3]

at this point i just want this thing to close and open, no remote start if i cant even get this one going, hahah, now im wondering if the light green cable is just not connected to anything.

anyone know the logic of that cable or were to find it on the main door harness to tap it and check? thanks

(C) 1−GROUND : CONTINUITY WITH THE FRONT DOOR TO UNLOCK POSITION

BN1 is the 20-pin connector in the kick panel

and

6−GROUND : CONTINUITY WITH THE DRIVER’S DOOR LOCK KNOB UNLOCKED

 

[LSDbrand]

View attachment 3221873
(C) 1−GROUND : CONTINUITY WITH THE FRONT DOOR TO UNLOCK POSITION

BN1 is the 20-pin connector in the kick panel

and

View attachment 3221874
6−GROUND : CONTINUITY WITH THE DRIVER’S DOOR LOCK KNOB UNLOCKED

Ill have a look!

ill have to buy you a beer soon bro, thanks

 

[veiloctane]

more pics.

"Light Retaining Relay" is green module located behind and above the "Main Relay Block"
View attachment 370492View attachment 370493View attachment 370494

thanks for sharing a simplified install. also the use of a harness from the RS3000 I have one harness from a early '90s 4runner hope its the same

 

[veiloctane]

question about flex relay Is this optional or used for anti-grind?

 

[concretejungle]

digging this old thread up due to the infamous no-start issue. My MAIN question is, can you just unplug everything related to the alarm and remove it from the truck and NOT install any other alarm? Will this keep the truck from starting?

 

[justinlyman]

digging this old thread up due to the infamous no-start issue. My MAIN question is, can you just unplug everything related to the alarm and remove it from the truck and NOT install any other alarm? Will this keep the truck from starting?

From what I understand is that if you have the dealer installed unit, they used a harness that just plugged series with the main connector under the dash. So you should be able to just remove it and plug the connector in without it. If your are unlucky like me and a previous owner had installed a different aftermarket unit and cut and spliced wires, you will have a little more work on your hands.

 

[concretejungle]

that is what I'm concerned about. the PO had a hack job of alarm and stereo stuff in place. Keep in mind this was 25 years ago when I purchased the truck, but I've never messed with it at all. It was a non-functioning viper system. I am like many here that have the random no-start issue that I've been chasing for years and now I'm wondering if this alarm hack job has anything to do with it.

 

[justinlyman]

that is what I'm concerned about. the PO had a hack job of alarm and stereo stuff in place. Keep in mind this was 25 years ago when I purchased the truck, but I've never messed with it at all. It was a non-functioning viper system. I am like many here that have the random no-start issue that I've been chasing for years and now I'm wondering if this alarm hack job has anything to do with it.

Might be a little work, but should be pretty straight forward as to what to remove and repair if you work your way through the alarm harness. I would also check and probably just replace your fusible links as well if you haven't already done so, mine were pretty worn and brittle.

 

[concretejungle]

Might be a little work, but should be pretty straight forward as to what to remove and repair if you work your way through the alarm harness. I would also check and probably just replace your fusible links as well if you haven't already done so, mine were pretty worn and brittle.

not to get too far off topic but I've done everything except replace the ignition trying to solve the non-start thing. Starter, contacts, ground wires, battery feed wires, fusible link. Just replaced the starter last month and I'm getting the random no-start after driving the truck a little.

 

[justinlyman]

not to get too far off topic but I've done everything except replace the ignition trying to solve the non-start thing. Starter, contacts, ground wires, battery feed wires, fusible link. Just replaced the starter last month and I'm getting the random no-start after driving the truck a little.

Gotcha, yea regardless if it is the root of the no start issue, I would get that alarm system pulled out, especially if it is non-functional and the install is questionable.

 

[JLH911]

not to get too far off topic but I've done everything except replace the ignition trying to solve the non-start thing. Starter, contacts, ground wires, battery feed wires, fusible link. Just replaced the starter last month and I'm getting the random no-start after driving the truck a little.

Is it cranking over though?

 

[concretejungle]

Is it cranking over though?

I don't want to sidetrack this thread too much! It has a brand new motor in it, it runs great and when the starter actually engages it starts right up. I'm having the issue of driving it, parking and then when I go to leave turn the key and nothing. But the catch is sometimes I'll hear a click and sometimes nothing at all. But it does eventually start every time. Oh, and it has a new starter on it and new fusible link and new power feed cable.

 

[Hornd]

I don't want to sidetrack this thread too much! It has a brand new motor in it, it runs great and when the starter actually engages it starts right up. I'm having the issue of driving it, parking and then when I go to leave turn the key and nothing. But the catch is sometimes I'll hear a click and sometimes nothing at all. But it does eventually start every time. Oh, and it has a new starter on it and new fusible link and new power feed cable.

I'm in same Boat. Mine refuses to start especially if it gets Real hot like on a Long Trip.

My Alarm is a Newer DEI ie Viper but I think it has nothing to do with it.

The Next thing I was going to Check is the Neutral Safety Switch on the Shifter.

My Noco Seems to get it going, but after it cools off. It's embarrassing at the Costco Gas station when there are 400 People in Line.

 

[JLH911]

I'm in same Boat. Mine refuses to start especially if it gets Real hot like on a Long Trip.

My Alarm is a Newer DEI ie Viper but I think it has nothing to do with it.

The Next thing I was going to Check is the Neutral Safety Switch on the Shifter.

My Noco Seems to get it going, but after it cools off. It's embarrassing at the Costco Gas station when there are 400 People in Line.

I had this happen also at a Costco and it was a warm day. Ive heard it's most likely either the efi relay or fuel pump relay. Whichever is the one that lives inside of the front, driver's side quarter panel.

 

[concretejungle]

there's a thread now stating that the alarm systems did have a motor kill function that keeps the motor from starting. Several have mentioned that removing the alarm has eliminated all of their non-start issues.