How many miles before rebuild on 4.5l 24 valve motor

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[quote author=e9999 link=board=2;threadid=13841;start=msg129012#msg129012 date=1080604488]
Andrew, you may have a 300K with a rebuilt engine all right, but the rest of the truck still has 300K on it!
that is of course the issue with old used cars is that they become a money pit at some point and never worth much after fixing...
so the trick is to know when to fold, as they say[/quote]
This is opposite of what I was thinking. If you own your 80 (no payments), even the cost of a rebuilt engine/tranny, front end rebuild, new shocks and brakes, all new fluids, etc. are going to be cheaper (assuming you do a lot of your own work) than a new or late model comparable vehicle, if you prorate the cost over the useful life (another 10 - 15 yrs) you have now gained after all those repairs/PMs.

There's plenty of FJ40's out there from the 60's and 70's still running strong and fairly economically, no reason we won't see the same thing for the 80 series in another 20 years (unless we use up all the gas by then ;) ).
 
267,000 miles and going strong. I don't believe the PO of my rig did any major maintenance so far. Including the knuckles!!! Kit in hand, next job.

Purrs like a kitten and drives like new.
 
IOW, if you have a 300K '91 which is worth $3K, would you put in $5K to rebuild the engine?

Eric, actually I'd quite easily spend that much. It's a heck of a lot less than a new rig. I'm looking at having a V8 & Auto trans put in mine after it goes (if it ever does) and am budgeting about $12-$15 K to get it done right.

Worth it, IMO.

-H-
 
[quote author=Hltoppr link=board=2;threadid=13841;start=msg129661#msg129661 date=1080680866]
I'm looking at having a V8 & Auto trans put in mine after it goes (if it ever does) and am budgeting about $12-$15 K to get it done right.
[/quote]

What V8 is that? Seems like a lot of money unless you arent turning a wrench yourself.
 
Last weekend, I drove a friend's F0rd F150 with 180k miles. He is a diesel mechanic by trade. That truck was a pile of junk. The engine was blowing copious amounts of oil, the auto tranny made curious noises, the starter was intermittent, the driver side door wouldn't open, and the windshield had about 40 cracks.

The brake feel was outstanding though.

Many vehicles including that F0rd would meet Eric & Pit's criteria but the 80 series Land Cruiser is not one of them in my opinion. If you are a Cruiser nut then putting money into an engine rebuild at 150, 250, or 300k miles is simply an investment in keeping one of the world's best vehicles in service.

Now if someone could tell me how to get the brake feel that F150 had (at a reasonable cost) then I would be elated.

-B-
 
[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=13841;start=msg129901#msg129901 date=1080697239]


Now if someone could tell me how to get the brake feel that F150 had (at a reasonable cost) then I would be elated.

-B-
[/quote]

Hydro - boost
 
The real cost of running a vehicle is in the depreciation - not in the cost of fuel and repairs.

For example, I just sold a Nissan Patrol. It was 3 years old and had lost $4000 in depreciation over ther 12 months I had it. It did 25 to the gallon and cost me $2200 in fuel over the 10000 miles I drove it. Repairs ... well, there weren't any.

I sold the Patrol and bought a 1989 60 series cruiser. It has done 81,000 miles and should do 200,000 more with no problem. Depreciation will be $0.00 Fuel will be $2,500 based on 22 MPG (a conservative estimate) So, by my rekoning I have got $2,700 to spend on toys and repairs before it starts to cost more than the Patrol. I reality it should save me $2000 a year.

Of course, the other benefit of this approach is putting $15,000 in the bank (sale price of the Patrol less the cost of the 60)

The lesson? Sell your 80s and buy a 60.

:beer: :beer:
 
true, Jim. If you look at 40s, the good ones don't lose value. But that's because these are specialized toys for a special type of folks, not DDs. Does not seem to be quite as much true of the 60s and the 80s.
Anyways, you can't separate depreciation from mileage. Consider a 300K 80 with a mint interior and body. Would most people pay $20K for it? Nope! Reason is that the risk is too great that something expensive to fix (at the dealer) will go wrong. I think there is a point in the life of the vast majority of vehicles where the cost to maintain is simply greater than the market value, precisely for that reason. Obviously a 300K Accord, say, is worth more than -say- $2000 in parts if parted out, but people won't pay more because they know if the engine goes they are stuck with $3000 in repairs.
just rambling...
E
 
E, That's fine. but, I'm talking about a 60 with 81,000 miles not 300,000. It wouldn't make sense to buy an old car at the end of its life. But an old car with low miles ? There's a good case for it.

When I was a student I used to buy disposable cars. I didn't care what it was, how old it was or how many miles it had done. As long as it had an MOT (roadworthiness certificate) I would buy it. I never paid more than $150 and would sell it to the scrap yard as soon as anything needed fixing. One car I bought lasted 8 months!
 
Yes the 300 k goes to the whole engine. Head does not need mill work really unless it it warped. Valves can be cut a couple of times if needed and not hammered too much. As for some of the other componets. I have seen a few starter with over 150k with only starter contacts replaced. I rebuilt my alternator at 170k miles and it could of gone another 40-50k miles before the rebuild. I rebuilt the Power steering pump when I rebuilt my engine because I had it out at 190k miles. I will have to reseal the steering box with it gets past the weep I have. Calipers (front) I think need rebuilding around 120-140k miles. Rear Calipers I have over 220k miles with no rebuild. Orginal rear wheel bearings to date, front ones new, birfields new 20 k miles ago, Have done both front and rear seals in transfer case. Water pump went on me at about 150k miles. I did replace the fuel pump about 175k miles (I think they need replaceing as a service item around 150k). STill on the orginal rotors I had when I got the truck at 88k miles.
As for a V-8 I would never do a gas v-8, I would do a diesel 6 before a 8. I would only do a 8 if I had to. never been a big fan of a V-8. Any conversions can be a Night mare if you do not have the money for it. I think it only pays for its self if you do it yourself so you know how to fix it in the field. later robbie
 
Our engine is at 250 and running strong with incrediable oil pressure and good compression.

When it dies I hope to have a line on a 1HD-T or FT, it would cost almost the same money for a complete rebuild and it would come with a low milage five speed or auto.

It would never compare to supercharged/turbocharged gasser but it sure would turn some incrediable milage along with miles.

We have seen a 3B go over a million in a 40 series, now thats crazy miles.

Rob
 
Hey Robbie,

Thanks for the info.

Speaking of your rebuild. I recall mention of porting the intake (and exhaust?). If I remember right, you said the resulting performance gain was about the same as adding a supercharger. Am I remembering correctly?

If so, why don't manufacturers do that to begin with? Milling the openings to match seems easier to do when making the things than for us to sit there with a grinder for untold hours trying to get everything to match up.

I'm thinking of going thru the process when I replace the HG.

Landtank and Lars,

Did you guys notice how well the gasket openings matched up with the castings?

Thanks,
Ed
 
Paid off our '93 when it was 4 years old. In the intervening 7 years I have had zero car payments on it, and to replace it with another SUV of equal value would have been at least $600 a month. That means by keeping it for a total of 11 years so far, it has now saved me around $50,000 by remaining a reliable, safe and durable vehicle. Just last month, my wife drove it alone on a ski vacation with the kids that was a 12 hour drive. Didn't faze me a bit.

This whole discussion makes an interesting case for purchasing a quality vehicle even if it's much more expensive, and keeping it for at least a decade.

DougM
 
[quote author=landandsea link=board=2;threadid=13841;start=msg130613#msg130613 date=1080787033]
Landtank and Lars,

Did you guys notice how well the gasket openings matched up with the castings?
[/quote]


No.... was working so fast at that point. My friend put the gasket on as I was moving the cherry picker in place. I didnt even look at it.
 
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