Hoses - Argh!

[BTLSHP]

I was going to take the easy way out and order a couple of Wit's End Kits for hoses......No that ain't happening. I am basically going to and try and do transmission lines and coolant/heater lines. I think I have most bits ordered, the one I am not confident about is circled below in red. I have a feeling it is out of production.

Any thoughts? The big intake manifold hose was replaced a year or so ago, I see no reason to replace the PAIR hose. It does have to pass emissions when it gets to Colorado.

Thanks,

Doug

 

[Cruisers and Co]

I believe you are correct at the one circled in red is nla... On my wife's 93 I just used some bulk straight 5/8's heater hose and it's been doing just fine

 

[mudgudgeon]

Looks basic enough to use straight hose

 

[BTLSHP]

Yes, I will splurge on a bit of Gates Green Stripe. No Riley's near me, so I will try Fleet Pride.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Napa gold stripe is super thick and good quality also if you can’t find any green stripe.

 

[BTLSHP]

I finally got all the available hoses & clamps to redo the cooling / heater system and few other tasks. The bypass hose under the IM was a real treat, I have the 2 bolts for the PHH out but the hose clamps used by a mechanic are posing a challenge. The bolt head is too close to the block to get a wrench or socket to fit around it and I have yet to find a spot for the flats of an open end 8mm. I will get it.

More importantly, I ran into an issue with the pax side heater core outlet. Here is the hose I removed and for better or worse it was not leaking and not hard to pull of. I have been mostly cutting the original hoses off and avoiding hose pliers. The hose was replaced 3+ years ago by a local mechanic and I did not pay much attention.

On the other nipple, a 10mm long type socket will fit with no interference, but little slack. On this side, it will not. The dent is right behind the front ridge on the left side (or bottom of photo). There is good undeformed surface at the far back of the nipple.

I have seen step bicycle tubes straightened using a clamp that goes around the tubes exterior, but I am not inclined to ry to make such a tool.

My thought is to go out and get the correct sized Gates Powerband and fit it towards the back of the nipple. I have several SB22's 1/2" Powerband's for the rear heater hose.

I could really use some ideas, I would hate to pull the dash apart.

Thanks in advance.

 

[JoeCova]

I finally got all the available hoses & clamps to redo the cooling / heater system and few other tasks. The bypass hose under the IM was a real treat, I have the 2 bolts for the PHH out but the hose clamps used by a mechanic are posing a challenge. The bolt head is too close to the block to get a wrench or socket to fit around it and I have yet to find a spot for the flats of an open end 8mm. I will get it.

More importantly, I ran into an issue with the pax side heater core outlet. Here is the hose I removed and for better or worse it was not leaking and not hard to pull of. I have been mostly cutting the original hoses off and avoiding hose pliers. The hose was replaced 3+ years ago by a local mechanic and I did not pay much attention.

On the other nipple, a 10mm long type socket will fit with no interference, but little slack. On this side, it will not. The dent is right behind the front ridge on the left side (or bottom of photo). There is good undeformed surface at the far back of the nipple.

I have seen step bicycle tubes straightened using a clamp that goes around the tubes exterior, but I am not inclined to ry to make such a tool.

My thought is to go out and get the correct sized Gates Powerband and fit it towards the back of the nipple. I have several SB22's 1/2" Powerband's for the rear heater hose.

I could really use some ideas, I would hate to pull the dash apart.

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 3678668

View attachment 3678670

Can always just push the hose on a littler further and put an OEM constant torque band slightly back.

That being said, I completely deleted the rear heater. Not only did it provide little heating value but by removing it, I removed something like 16 hose connections and clamps that no longer require replacement or maintenance.

Are you taking it to Denver? Most of Colorado doesn't require emissions, and I am not sure the PAIR even helps. I deleted the PAIR on mine.

 

[BTLSHP]

Can always just push the hose on a littler further and put an OEM constant torque band slightly back.

That being said, I completely deleted the rear heater. Not only did it provide little heating value but by removing it, I removed something like 16 hose connections and clamps that no longer require replacement or maintenance.

Are you taking it to Denver? Most of Colorado doesn't require emissions, and I am not sure the PAIR even helps. I deleted the PAIR on mine.

Yes, but it is going to Jefferson County where from little I have read it requires an emissions test every two years. The rear heater is an irrational issue with the owner (my father). But your point is not lost on me and I am considering setting it up as it is now and getting the delete done once it is in Denver....

I have the correct band clamps......

Right now the difference is a 10mm 1/4" socket barely fits the drivers side but won't make it in the pax side. On the pax side a 9mm makes it with some room. The difference between the two is a bit over 1.2mm.

 

[JoeCova]

Yes, but it is going to Jefferson County where from little I have read it requires an emissions test every two years. The rear heater is an irrational issue with the owner (my father). But your point is not lost on me and I am considering setting it up as it is now and getting the delete done once it is in Denver....

I have the correct band clamps......

Right now the difference is a 10mm 1/4" socket barely fits the drivers side but won't make it in the pax side. On the pax side a 9mm makes it with some room. The difference between the two is a bit over 1.2mm.

Ya Jeffco and Denver are lame.
Is the socket to tighten the bands?
The OEM are a tension clamp, if you get these just slide it on and pull the tab.

 

[BTLSHP]

Yup, I think when I was ordering parts you or someone else told me to get 10 of those and they are here. I was just using the sockets as a gauge to get a sense of the deformation on the pax side. No effort to "correct" things.

Now I have to figure out how to slide the new PHH pipe in - from above or below.

 

[BTLSHP]

I had replaced one radiator hose and a pile of vacuum lines earlier. Among my errors was underestimating the number of vacuum lines under the IM and trying to get the Gate Transmission hose on after my heat gun died. Curiously, the rear heater hose on the driver's side is covered in rust, the PHH pipe is clear of rust. What is the possibility that it is some sort of stainless steel? Do I throw it out or keep it?

The number 1 By-pass was a nightmare until I rotated by body 180-degrees then not too bad. I am short a few of the good Toyota clamps but have them on order.

 

[mudgudgeon]

the PHH pipe is clear of rust. What is the possibility that it is some sort of stainless steel? Do I throw it out or keep it?

Early 80s they where stainless, this changed at some point.
Mine has stainless hard lines, but they are obviously stainless, no mistaking them for steel.

If yours is in good condition, and no rust internally, I'd keep it in place

 

[60 toy ota]

little late but there is a pre molded gates hose that replaces the NLA one around the pairing valve very nicely. I don't recall the PN but there are a few threads that mention it. Also, I think it's worth repairing the copper heater core pipe. I made this tool a few years back which I imagine is similar to the one you described for the bike tubes. I suppose you could epoxy it instead of welding, but for the little effort it it takes it's worth it in my mind.

 

[BTLSHP]

little late but there is a pre molded gates hose that replaces the NLA one around the pairing valve very nicely. I don't recall the PN but there are a few threads that mention it. Also, I think it's worth repairing the copper heater core pipe. I made this tool a few years back which I imagine is similar to the one you described for the bike tubes. I suppose you could epoxy it instead of welding, but for the little effort it it takes it's worth it in my mind.

A neighbor knew of a woman who repairs brass musical instruments, took her 15 minutes with the strangest tools. She said she would come back if there was an issue. I can't feel a thing on the tube, the rim at the front seems fine there is perhaps a bend in the lip or it is just a bright spot on the brass. $100 well spent

 

[BILT4ME]

A neighbor knew of a woman who repairs brass musical instruments, took her 15 minutes with the strangest tools. She said she would come back if there was an issue. I can't feel a thing on the tube, the rim at the front seems fine there is perhaps a bend in the lip or it is just a bright spot on the brass. $100 well spent

Did she polish it to look like a brand new saxophone for that price?

 

[Rifleman]

I had replaced one radiator hose and a pile of vacuum lines earlier.

Just a quick question, when you replaced your vacuum lines did you buy then from a Toyota dealership, or a local parts store,

The reason i ask, the factory vacuum lines are metric, case in point the little ones used on our trucks have a 3,5 mm ID,

I've found none of my local auto parts stores stock metric hose, and will want to sell you 5/32 vacuum hose instead,

The difference is, the 5/32 hose has a ,020 bigger ID then the 3,5MM hose, if you install 5/32 hose you'll run the risk of vacuum leaks

 

[ajax1]

Just a quick question, when you replaced your vacuum lines did you buy then from a Toyota dealership, or a local parts store,

The reason i ask, the factory vacuum lines are metric, case in point the little ones used on our trucks have a 3,5 mm ID,

I've found none of my local auto parts stores stock metric hose, and will want to sell you 5/32 vacuum hose instead,

The difference is, the 5/32 hose has a ,020 bigger ID then the 3,5MM hose, if you install 5/32 hose you'll run the risk of vacuum leaks

Buy them from Toyota it was cheap at my local dealer. I cut to size

 

[BTLSHP]

Did she polish it to look like a brand new saxophone for that price?

I don't know - but compared to a plumber or electrician around here, I thought the house call was a bargain. And while not polished the tube and rim and the end seem spot on, can't feel anything.

The small vacuum line is 90999-92002 and I get it locally for $6 per meter. I have used far more than I thought - 3+ meters in total. I did Partsouq for most of the smaller lines, but have paid dearly for a couple of chunks of ERG hose that happened to fit under the IM in places.

I still need to do a full test of the EGR components while it is apart.