@ErikinSC
Sorry to hear you are having issues, I know how frustrating they are, especially when intermittent.
After an apologetic takeover of this thread, I and most everyone who helped along the way concluded my issue turned out to be something other than the Sniper.
Here is a lengthy update:
I learned a tremendous amount about the Sniper during this process. Most importantly and in my opinion, all other components need to be in really good working order to optimize it’s performance and diagnose any poor running conditions, in my opinion a sniper doesn’t improve an engine with issues, in fact, I think it may magnify them as I feel it has less margin for error over a really good carb setup on old engine, but far more upside on a healthy one.
Here is brief recap of my efforts. Before replacing the head gasket, I drained the fuel to confirm the tank was clean and replaced all of fuel filters/pump, the valves had just been adjusted along with the nee OEM head and Remflex exhaust gaskets, I put on a brand new Sniper as Holley was perplexed and wanted me to send them the old one for diag, I changed the Dist cap, rotor and module, BUT the one thing I didn’t do in my efforts was to change the DUI distributor itself.
As the dist was removed for switchover there was an odd clicking sound discovered when rotated, not 100% it was the issue, the decision had been made and the motor was out at time, but a sticky/notchy distributor could align with my running condition. Runs good until it doesn’t and something occurs much like it is out of time suddenly and then after varying periods of time of engine off rest, it would correct itself, sometimes run well for minutes, sometimes hours and even a couple of days once. Yes, there are still other possibilities; could have been a valvetrain/piston/ring issue although those are more typically consistent and a decent possibility of a hairline crack in the head itself that caused the initial blown headgasket that began this saga.
We may never know for certain the true cause as I decided to take the nuclear option and just replace the entire drivetrain, engine, trans, TC, etc.
Was that 100% necessary, probably not. I bet many more hours and more money could have been invested to further diagnose and correct to get a few more years out of the old original tiredish 2F. The compression was 120-130, not great but there are lots on the road with that or less, I have read, lowish compression and a Sniper isn’t a great combination, but mine ran fine, till it didn’t.
Also, to help justify the decision for a new Hi Po 2F, I really wanted to do the H55 trans and TC, it just made sense to do it all at the same time.
Wish I could be more help and point to the exact cause, I hope you discover your cause and correction easier than I did.