- Thread starter
- #721
More like a 2 inch I think, but might have been 2.5 I'm just glad I got rid of that big arse muffler, sounds awesome now
HJ61 12HT Build Up - The Grub
- Thread starter Spudman
- Start date
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2" pipe is just way too small for 4.0 TD. Many people have said bigger (2,5" - 3") pipe makes a decent difference after that bottleneck 2".
I have 3" stainless straight pipe also, sounds awesome.
I have 3" stainless straight pipe also, sounds awesome.
maat
yeah nah maybe
looks geeat spud! i prefer that look over the mags!
- Thread starter
- #724
Thanks Matt, haven't seen you around for a while
maat
yeah nah maybe
been flat out with work, i will have to update the thread on my 61
keep it up mate!
keep it up mate!
- Thread starter
- #726
Ordered my 1 inch body lift kit (poser kit, I believe they call them) should be here next week
maat
yeah nah maybe
ive always wondered about these. i wouldnt mind 35s but without a bit of a body lift and only having SUA im not brave enough
- Thread starter
- #728
True, but I wouldn't know where to start with a SOA and it looks so complicated, but I had to do it when the 35's only cost $350 a corner
maat
yeah nah maybe
too right, id jump at that opportunity
- Thread starter
- #730
Started on my body lift today.
First thing was to workout where all the bushes go, 6 on each side, found 5 of them quite easily, but couldn't workout where the bolt head was for the last one
I could see the bolt but there was no hole to get to the head, I'm talking about the one at the rear, eventually worked out that it was an inspection cover under the car, great anything under the car is full of 25 years of s*** 
So a lot of CRC and tongue biting and eventually got those little screws out.
Next step was to remove the dual batteries and the battery tray, the OEM was quite rusted and looking worse for wear, might have to look at getting a new one, why is it that whenever you pull out battery trays you always find an old rag stuffed down underneath
Then I removed the front seats which made access a lot easier to those bolts underneath.
I also removed all the wheels and put the vehicle on axle stands, ATM it measures 93cm at the highest point to the flared guard at the front and 96cm to the rear, I'll measure again once fitted.
I'll post up some pics as I go as there aren't a lot of pics on here with body lifts.
Stay tuned
Spudman
First thing was to workout where all the bushes go, 6 on each side, found 5 of them quite easily, but couldn't workout where the bolt head was for the last one
I could see the bolt but there was no hole to get to the head, I'm talking about the one at the rear, eventually worked out that it was an inspection cover under the car, great anything under the car is full of 25 years of s*** So a lot of CRC and tongue biting and eventually got those little screws out.
Next step was to remove the dual batteries and the battery tray, the OEM was quite rusted and looking worse for wear, might have to look at getting a new one, why is it that whenever you pull out battery trays you always find an old rag stuffed down underneath
Then I removed the front seats which made access a lot easier to those bolts underneath.
I also removed all the wheels and put the vehicle on axle stands, ATM it measures 93cm at the highest point to the flared guard at the front and 96cm to the rear, I'll measure again once fitted.
I'll post up some pics as I go as there aren't a lot of pics on here with body lifts.
Stay tuned
Spudman
- Thread starter
- #731
Started to try and remove the nuts today (and I emphasise on the word try) holy fxxx, super fxxxing tight mixed with lock tight, so I got all the locking nuts off the left side and 3 other nuts, number 4 looks like it ain't gonna give, might have to resort to cutting it off with the grinder I want to try and avoid that, anyway time will tell 
I want to try and avoid that, anyway time will tell
- Thread starter
- #732
Did a bit more work on the body lift today, I had to cut one of the bolts, 25 years of crap just seized it too good, anyway got the left side all undone, used a trolley jack and a bottle jack to lift the body, simply amazing how easy if lifts up. Put in the 1" blocks all went in fairly easy, except the end one as it's now longer you have to wiggle it quite a bit to get it in the hole.
The drivers side all came off fairly easy, so I had all the bolts out, blocks in and new bolts in, in less than hour.
Unfortunately the radiator fan Schroud hits at the bottom so I'll have to make some adjustments tomorrow.
So here's a few photos of the day
Firstly you need to remove both battery trays as this little sucker sits right underneath
A couple of shots of the other body mounts
A couple of pics of how I used the jacks
A couple with new blocks in place
Here's a pic of the inspection plate at the rear where the head of the last bolt is hiding
One good thing, lifting the body gives more clearance for my intercooler, it was sitting a bit high
Very happy with the look
The drivers side all came off fairly easy, so I had all the bolts out, blocks in and new bolts in, in less than hour.
Unfortunately the radiator fan Schroud hits at the bottom so I'll have to make some adjustments tomorrow.
So here's a few photos of the day
Firstly you need to remove both battery trays as this little sucker sits right underneath
A couple of shots of the other body mounts
A couple of pics of how I used the jacks
A couple with new blocks in place
Here's a pic of the inspection plate at the rear where the head of the last bolt is hiding
One good thing, lifting the body gives more clearance for my intercooler, it was sitting a bit high
Very happy with the look
Hey Spud, great work on the Grub. I'm wondering if you had to remove anything complicated (brake lines, wiring...) before removing/replacing those body mounts. On my to do list is a little preventative rust maintenance on the frame where those body mounts sit, and I'm wondering if I can simply remove all on one side, do the work, then switch to the other side and drive off and be done with it.
It's a USA FJ60 (gasoline), but frame/chasis should be same...too bad I don't have a 12H-T in there (yet...)...but then I'd probably have even more questions for you.
It's a USA FJ60 (gasoline), but frame/chasis should be same...too bad I don't have a 12H-T in there (yet...)...but then I'd probably have even more questions for you.
- Thread starter
- #734
Hey mate, thanks for the support.
No you don't have to remove anything like, it's all quite simple actually, just those bolts are super tight, the problem I encountered is the radiator Schroud scraping on the fan
maat
yeah nah maybe
got a before and after stance shot spud?
- Thread starter
- #736
No worries Matt, always happy to oblige, all finished
Before
After
Drives great and looks fxxxing awesome, I may still have to put an add a leaf in the front
Before
After
Drives great and looks fxxxing awesome, I may still have to put an add a leaf in the front
Guys if you get to halls creek try to catch up with spud(top bloke)!
We caught up with him and then my trailer copped a hiding down the tanami so spud said no probs come over and fix it up,we had a ball talking 60"s and i"ll stay in contact with him.
Spuds a gem from the outback,that's for sure!
Pulled up in Leinster tonight spud home tomorrow.
Spuds driveway with 2 Hj61's parked in it......
Thanks a lot spud talk soon.....
Ps: Spud cant sell the old girl even though I really need a cruza ute.
Extend the chassis and dual cab her next few years,get what I want then.
...via IH8MUD app
1 inch did the trick i see, looks a lot better now!
- Thread starter
- #739
Hey Dave, it was a pleasure mate and it was excellent to catch up, the good thing about this forum is that when you actually do catch up with blokes in person it's like you've known them for years.
Good to hear you got home safely and take care mate
- Thread starter
- #740
Thanks Hojo, yep I luv it1 inch did the trick i see, looks a lot better now!