HJ47 welcome here?

[Henry James the 47th]

time for a little digging...ugh!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

well, I'll just have to do the best I can - first thing tomorrow I'll try and get some more 18g. stock.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

there are numerous small repair jobs to do, like this one on the driver's apron. Both aprons were cracked the same way.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

three more

 

[Henry James the 47th]

the driver's side mounting pin us a bit eroded but I imagine I'll find some way to correct it with the welder - it's salvageable.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Looks like fun!

As to the colors, I'm a fan of the white bezel and top. It just looks "right" to me. But 1)it's you truck, and 2)if you use grey/silver then if I paint mine Nordic Blue I won't feel like I copied you!

I really don't think the white looks "busy" at all on a cruiser.

Dan

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Looks like fun!

As to the colors, I'm a fan of the white bezel and top. It just looks "right" to me. But 1)it's you truck, and 2)if you use grey/silver then if I paint mine Nordic Blue I won't feel like I copied you!

I really don't think the white looks "busy" at all on a cruiser.

Dan

Hey Dan,

well, I'm thinking of painting it blue/silver, not white/silver. It's not that I think white is a 'busy' color - it's the removal of white and replacement by silver that would result in one fewer color in the overall scheme - that's what I mean by less busy.

Thanks for your input!

 

[MoCoNative]

Colorwise, I'd stick with white top at least, the silver Bezel would look like an FJ-Cruiser. A pint of white might be enough, it won't take much, just pick a nice white color that you like. I think stock, the white was really kind of a creamy color. I found that the metallic silver color by Toyota did not weather very good, and really it may be a waste of money on the exterior, when again a small pint will be enough to hit the panels inside and any other brackets that need it. I used a smoke gray color for all the exterior parts on my 40 that were metallic silver. Good thing too, you can touch them up with a spray can as they weather. The metallic will require complete repaints. Also, if you are going to paint it, metallic is very hard to do for a first timer. It requires, good even passes with the paint gun, 50% coverage of each previous stroke, and the gun must remain at like a 45 degree angle to the peice, as you have to get each fleck of metallic to hit at the same angle to get a nice coat of paint and even luster.

Just my opinion on the paint as you know, coming together great, too bad the upper cab panel is so bad, I was hoping it would be in better shape so you could breeze through that part of the vehicle. This was an Australian cruiser???? Must have come off the coast, or the more humid forest regions I guess. The rust you have encountered is pretty serious moisture damage. Just humidity in general I think. Luckily I live in a pretty dry climate.

And see, told you would need all those holes in the dash, you just keep adding stuff

 

[Henry James the 47th]

..."the silver Bezel would look like an FJ-Cruiser..."


that settles it right there - white it will be for the bezel and roof.


I forgot the camera yesterday, and made a couple of hour's progress on the upper cab.

Tonight I got in another couple of hours on the upper cab, starting with a bit more of a look at the passenger corner...not pretty

After pulling the crap out, I media-blasted the inner sheet metal.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

a couple more shots of the lower edge as it stood after blasting the corners, and yesterday's progress.

The third pic show the start of the process to make a replacement for the piece I just removed

 

[Henry James the 47th]

three more

 

[Henry James the 47th]

..this piece of folded-up corner was looking pretty hellish at one point, and I nearly threw it in the trash.

After a bunch of grinding and hammering, it came out decently enough, I hope, to serve it's function. There will be a clean and flat piece of metal laid over top of it, and I think it will do.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I should be able to complete the bulk of the work along the lower edge tomorrow, and then I will start on those corroded corners and the mounting pin

 

[Henry James the 47th]

And see, told you would need all those holes in the dash, you just keep adding stuff

Well, if I start to worry about having too many switches and stuff crowding the dash, a quick source of perspective can be found on this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=179369

My dash really is spartan by comparison...

 

[MoCoNative]

Ya, I saw that, just teasing you about filling holes and getting rid of stuff on your dash earlier. Now you are adding stuff and running out of holes.

I was looking at the photos of the rear cab peice. On the lower edge that you are working on. It appears that on either side of the middle post deal, that the lip is rolled up. Why is that, does it vent, is it the way it fits, I assumed that surface would all be flat. You can really see it in the second picture of post 530.

 

[HJ-45CrewCab]

Hey Dan,

I've been getting a lot of parts from David Porter at 4wdparts.com.au. I came across them when I bought some aftermarket parts, and then found that they were happy to locate oem stuff as well. They're honest and give excellent service, and communicate well.


this is on their homepage, what gives?

Please Note: 4WD Parts does not supply outside of Australia so we regret that unfortunately we will not be able to process orders or enquiries from outside Australia.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Hey Dan,

I've been getting a lot of parts from David Porter at 4wdparts.com.au. I came across them when I bought some aftermarket parts, and then found that they were happy to locate oem stuff as well. They're honest and give excellent service, and communicate well.


this is on their homepage, what gives?

Please Note: 4WD Parts does not supply outside of Australia so we regret that unfortunately we will not be able to process orders or enquiries from outside Australia.

David Porter has always been happy to ship me parts on a regular basis - heck, we're sharing lifestyle and family info now

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I was looking at the photos of the rear cab peice. On the lower edge that you are working on. It appears that on either side of the middle post deal, that the lip is rolled up. Why is that, does it vent, is it the way it fits, I assumed that surface would all be flat. You can really see it in the second picture of post 530.

I think the reason that the lip is folded down in the manner that it is is an attempt to increase the stiffness of the piece. There is no venting function as far as I can tell, but you never know - a lot of sheet metal was deteriorated along that edge.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Looking good, got your message about the running boards, last set I purchased were OEM.

Rob

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Looking good, got your message about the running boards, last set I purchased were OEM.

Rob

Thanks Rob. I managed to find my driver's side running board, and then fixed up the passenger side one, which had a broken extractor jammed in over the broken remains of the bolt. After trying to get the chunk of extractor out using a punch and then a carbide purr, I realized that the captive nut was held by two spot welds. Drilled those out, fabricated a new u-shaped backing plate out of 16 g. sheet and welded a nut to it, and voila problem solved.

Those OEM prices are a bit over the map - the ones stocked by SOR seem to be the priciest I've seen at $179/ea. Duncan Toyota said they were, what else, "obsolete" in Canada according to the locator they use.