Here goes!!!! Head gasket...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

chicago said:
DOH!!!!!
I DIDNT DRAIN THE BLOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:doh::bang::doh:
How do you drain the block on these!?!?!?

The injectors came in today, so I was gonna get after it first thing!!!!

Thanks for the tip on filling. That jogged my brain!
Click to expand...

Oh, I wouldn't worry about it, unless your coolant was really yucky. There are block drains on each side, hopefully they're not rusted closed.
 
Where about are they.
I just did the t stat the week prior to the blow out which included new AF, but I donno when and if the block had been drained. Id assume it was 10 years ago when toyota LAST did the HG.

Id rather do it now if I could.

Thanks for the info!

K
 
BTW, I actually checked the locations in the manual, and ONE that it shows does not seem to exist on the motor. Shows it right about where the t stat housing is?
The other is on the front of the motor...again...this is the Haynes manual that I had used.
 
Head Gasket #3!
Yes...that is right! Ive gone through a total of THREE HEAD GASKETS on this job all on the Pass. side.
******LISTEN UP...THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!!!*******
If you do this repair and you TAKE OUT that MOTHER FU*CKING, WORTHLESS HUNK OF SH*T rear cross over exhaust tube, BE GAWD DAMN SURE you PUT that C%CK SUCKING PIECE OF SH$T back behind the block BEFORE you put the HEADS ON!!!! It WILL NOT fit back there otherwise. FU*K THAT THING!!!!!

Had a bit of a MELT DOWN with this today...My wife has seen me LIVID (to the point that Im shaking) on TWO occasions in 11 years together. BOTH have been working on this rig.

Thankfully its almost done. Just hope this B*TCH runs after all this!
 
Eeeewww.... I usually leave all the exhaust in place and just pull the exhaust flange studs so I can get the heads back on easy... Sorry you're having such a time... Fingers crossed that it'll be trouble free for a long time! :cheers:
 
Just out of curiosity....
On the valve specs. im a few thousanths tight on one. How critical is this?
Is this something that I should stop now and get the shims, or will it be okay.
Keep in mind that these are re man. heads. They should loosen up, right?

I couldnt sleep thinking about that last night worried about it.
The spec IIRC was .008 and the one in question was .005 or something along those lines.
When I tipped the head, the "puck" deals fell out of their respective locations, so I might not have gotten them back in the right order....
 
A GREAT DEAL if you need to do the HG for your 3.0....

Toyota 3.0L 3VZE Rebuilt LeftCylinder Head Assembly


This is cheaper that I had paid, and it incudes the cam and lifter clearances spec'd.
WISH I had seen this BEFORE I ordered mine.

I went back and re checked the valve clearances on the DS...Good thing I did! 5 of the 6 were TIGHT.
PS, One was too loose by .01mm and the other was basically zero so it was WAAAAAY tight.

So I pulled the cams, popped the shims from the puck deals over the valves, mic'd them, wrote the values down and now I can hopefully x reference that with Toyotas numbers (1,2,3, etc.) and get what I need.
Also, I had gotten EACH clearance value for each valve while torqued and in place, so Im hoping that I can then get the right shims the first time around.

I hope they have em in stock!!!! They are all between .28 and .30. I need a lot less in most cases cuz as I stated...they are ALL except one too tight.

So just an FYI for you all!

Keith
 
I feel for you, as mine had both h/gaskets leaking along with a burned ex valve. I " think " this was all caused by a plugged cat. While researching what I was going to do, motor info, something caught my eye. Apparently on this motor there is a RIGHT side head, and a LEFT side head, and showed the reason why ( think it had something to do with timming belt/cam pullys ). I got lucky, there's a machine shop that builds sprint/modified motors fairly close did mine for a little over a grand ( bored, new pistons, rings, heads gone thru, head bolts, water pump, timing belt and assc, and all machine work ) , with a years warrenty. These motors are a pain to work on, thats why I went the way I did. Hope to get another 180000 out of it. ps- If auto, might want to put a new front seal in the tranny while you got the motor out. Al
 
Alz Toy said:
I feel for you, as mine had both h/gaskets leaking along with a burned ex valve. I " think " this was all caused by a plugged cat. While researching what I was going to do, motor info, something caught my eye. Apparently on this motor there is a RIGHT side head, and a LEFT side head, and showed the reason why ( think it had something to do with timming belt/cam pullys ). I got lucky, there's a machine shop that builds sprint/modified motors fairly close did mine for a little over a grand ( bored, new pistons, rings, heads gone thru, head bolts, water pump, timing belt and assc, and all machine work ) , with a years warrenty. These motors are a pain to work on, thats why I went the way I did. Hope to get another 180000 out of it. ps- If auto, might want to put a new front seal in the tranny while you got the motor out. Al
Click to expand...

AL,
I didint do a total re build...just the head gaskets and consequently the heads. Not that I know sort of what Im doing, another go around probably wouldnt be so bad, but this being my first time with this motor and rig...it has been a TOTAL nightmare. All that is left is to get the lash within spec and put the rest of the crap back in and Im back to work on my cruiser!:bounce::bounce2:
BTW, it is a manual trans.
I also noticed in my travels around and under the rig that the PS CV boot is TOTALLY torn, so Ill be doing that shortly as well.

That link I posted above for this job would have made life a TON easier, and actually was cheaper, so take note of it anyone who is in the same situation.

Write up to follow.:D
 
ALMOST there.
I couldnt get too many pics of the re assembly process...Im sorry about that.
I got hung up on the valve adjustment for SERIOUSLY 2 WORKING DAYS.
The jist of it is, there are shims that you do the adjustment with as opposed to tightening a bolt or something.
The catch is, these shims are a DEALER ONLY part, and I couldnt figure out the chart in the FSM to save my life to determine the sizes that I had and translate that to what I NEED.
I took all my shims and clearances wtih those shims down to the local Reno Toyota, and the lead tech. Greg HOOKED ME UP! The guy was just sooooooo awesome with me re. this process. He showed my how to figure the most approx. shim size and we went from there. Now...that required about 4 trips back an forth, but I FINALLY got everything perfectly, safely within spec. They really have you OVER the BARREL on those shims. Youre totally dependent on the dealer for them. He essentially just GAVE me the shims I needed out of his own stash cuz he knew thay would have to order them, and they would be expensive. So that dude is getting a bottle of Crown Royal from me for the help.
After that everything went together really smooth.
The timing belt was a bit of a trick...
There are marks on the belt that supposedly have to line up with the timing marks on the crank and cam pulleys....When you tension the belt....the cams advance and youre off. To remedy this, I turned the cams back ONE TOOTH on the belt (which also perfeclty aligned the timing mark on the sprockets with the mark on the timing belt) and then when I tensioned the belt It aligned with the timing mark on the timing plate. All was right in the universe....THEORETICALLY anyway. We will see today.
BTW...labeling anything and everything you might even have a CHANCE at getting confused on...is the key to getting the plenum back together. That made a TON of difference in the re assembly!
 
AAAAAND DONE!!!!!:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:
Went to fire it up this AM, and it wouldnt fire. "OH ****!?!!"
Posted a distress thread here, and also called my dad to get his opinon...I didnt index the timing. FAIL!
Got it all squared away and fired right up. Hit it with the timing light and she runs smooth.

Anything I should do in the next few weeks?
Change the oil, break in stuff etc?
 
Chicago:

Since you've done this recently, and it's probably fresh in your mind: where does the wiring harness for the knock sensor run? I'm trying to put my sister's 3.0 back together (also, I agree: this is the worst engine on the face of the planet), and I'm not finding the harness that plugs into the knock sensor pigtail. I remember the knock sensor pigtail running to the back of the engine, to the little notch between the heads, but I just don't see what plugs into that pigtail.

Glad to hear yours worked out! I did battle with that crossover pipe myself today. I have never appreciated my inline turbo-diesel so much as today. Not only do I only have one exhaust, but those rusty nuts are up high on the engine so I"m not squeezing my fingers in anywhere to get them.

Dan
 
The knock sensor wire goes under the intake gasket through the square notch on the drivers side head and plugs into a plug that's in with the injector wire harness for the drivers side.

It's not the worst engine, you guys are exaggerating... :cheers:
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
The knock sensor wire goes under the intake gasket through the square notch on the drivers side head and plugs into a plug that's in with the injector wire harness for the drivers side.

It's not the worst engine, you guys are exaggerating... :cheers:
Click to expand...

Gotcha. So it comes in roughly towards the igniter on the inner fender then, instead of the back of the engine. That might make it a much simpler thing....

Not exaggerating one bit. Worst engine ever (well, certainly worst Toyota engine ever). I actually prefer working on the airplanes Mitsubishi built (and those SUCKED to work on) to working on the 3.0. There is simply no upside to this engine.
:cheers:

Dan
 
2nd gen got it. Im assuming that you found it already...
I ended up getting a new wire for the knock sensor cuz mine looked a little sketchy. There's a channel for it in the side of the head that the gasket and the intake sit flush over it.

Youre right...there's not much fun about working on this motor. Now that I have done it, and know how to do it, I dont think it would be AS BAD second time around. they did some REALLY WEIRD stuff that had me saying.."WTF!?!?!?!"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom