Here goes!!!! Head gasket...

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PGH854runner said:
12mm 12 point socket
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Alright.
Thanks for that. gotta try and get one today so I can pull the heads. Im curious to see what it looks like under there.
 
Couple of comments:

* I thought about Jerod's trick to hold the cam sprockets when I was doing the timing belt in my Highlander a couple of months ago, but as tight as they were I could tell I was about to shear the head off that tiny 10mm bolt, so I gave up. Next time I'm in one of these engines I'm gonna make a cam holding tool now that I have a welder at home.

* You might wanna look closely at the harness that connects to the knock sensor, that's the sensor that's right in the middle/top of the engine. There's an old TSB on that harness, they wear out and will cause running problems. I don't think the dealer will hand you a new harness for free, but I don't think it's a very expensive part either.
 
KLF said:
Couple of comments:

* I thought about Jerod's trick to hold the cam sprockets when I was doing the timing belt in my Highlander a couple of months ago, but as tight as they were I could tell I was about to shear the head off that tiny 10mm bolt, so I gave up. Next time I'm in one of these engines I'm gonna make a cam holding tool now that I have a welder at home.

* You might wanna look closely at the harness that connects to the knock sensor, that's the sensor that's right in the middle/top of the engine. There's an old TSB on that harness, they wear out and will cause running problems. I don't think the dealer will hand you a new harness for free, but I don't think it's a very expensive part either.
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What is the TSB? I know where the knock sensor is...are you talking about the pig tail that comes OFF it, or the knock sensor itself?
BTW...BEFORE I figured out what 2ndgen was talkin about...I too made a "special" service tool to hold the sprockets.... took some 1/2 in bar and welded a fork sort of thing on it and the whole thing failed miserably. It bent under the torque. Not the best choice in materials, but...I didnt wanna get into a full fab up of something.:D
 
Got the heads completely OFF toady. Had a hell of a time with the LOWEST exhaust flange. The one that runs right along the trans. The nuts were so siezed, that I stripped one. Fortunately is was the OUTER most nut. Ended up cutting out some of the fender well for access and cut the bolt off. So for those of you doing this...TO get to those bolts, youve gotta get em from under the rig with a swivel and LONG ASS extension, and it made a ton of difference unbolting the bracket off the trans to allow for some movement. Also take off the GOWD DAMN heat shields that are under there.
I think the gasket blew at the PS rear cylinder...since there was AF in the cylinder it was kind of a dead give away. That piston was also particularly nasty. Is that from the burning of the AF in there?
Was also looking at the injectors....TOAST! will need so new/ re built ones.
I decided today I will NEVER work on this rig again! It WILL have an accident before I do that!:p

First pic is the PS cylinders
2nd is the RATS NEST of hoses and wires
3rd is the DS cylinders

Is there ANY way to lose some of these hoses and crap outta here? This truck is NOT smoged.
001 (2).webp
003 (2).webp
002 (2).webp
 
BTW...whats the best way to clean up the block?
Can I rotate the crank to clean the piston heads, or will that screw up where I set the timing mark to zero?
Anything I can do to clean the intakes?
Also...when I pulled the plugs, they ALL looked a bit hot (white'ish)... Could that be the failing injectors, or would that be the timing too advanced?
 
When i do a headjob i usually start with a brand new razor blade and scrape the block deck clean,then shop vac the bolt holes,cylinders and water/oil passages,then a new clean rag with acetone and polish the sealing deck surface clean

I do this to the head(s) and block moments before it all goes together.......this is just my procedure,not the bible but ive never redone a HG

By the way ive got a friends 91 with a 3VZ-E that i gotta do a HG/new heads on waitin in the lot at work......

I hate this motor!!!!!!
 
PGH854runner said:
When i do a headjob i usually start with a brand new razor blade and scrape the block deck clean,then shop vac the bolt holes,cylinders and water/oil passages,then a new clean rag with acetone and polish the sealing deck surface clean

I do this to the head(s) and block moments before it all goes together.......this is just my procedure,not the bible but ive never redone a HG

By the way ive got a friends 91 with a 3VZ-E that i gotta do a HG/new heads on waitin in the lot at work......

I hate this motor!!!!!!
Click to expand...

That is about what I have done with mating surfaces in general, but I did start with a brass wire brush in the block. It seems that the last time this was done, there was some leaking around the back of the heads. This thing has always leaked enough to be a messy PITA and I suspect that MIGHT be the cause...I donno. Well see when its done.

Im with you re. this motor. I dont ever wanna touch this thing again. Its NOT mechanically friendly in ANY way. The front of the motor was pretty smooth, but the rest has been a total nightmare.
Probably the ONLY time Ive wished that we had gotten her a HEEP. Hate to say it, but its true.
There's a good chance this truck may get sold after this experience.

BTW, I found a set of re maned injectors for 44 bucks a piece.

Anyone speak to the questions above on the intake clean, and turning the pistons over to clean some of the build up off?

Thanks,

Keith
 
I have run into one Cam that was on so tight it sheared the bolt off, I was able to just get it out of the head with the sprocket still on and take it to a shop with a real impact gun, and they barely were able to get it off... If you have the means, make a special spanner to hold the cam sprocket, but if you don't the socket trick works most of the time. :cheers:
 
Ordered the re man heads yesterday, and they came in TODAY!!!!!
However, the injectors are still due in on the 13th:crybaby:
Hopefully they will come early!
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
I have run into one Cam that was on so tight it sheared the bolt off, I was able to just get it out of the head with the sprocket still on and take it to a shop with a real impact gun, and they barely were able to get it off... If you have the means, make a special spanner to hold the cam sprocket, but if you don't the socket trick works most of the time. :cheers:
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i just bang the nut with the impact gun and it comes right off....no spanner,no socket trick,just a fast 500ft/lbs
 
PGH854runner said:
i just bang the nut with the impact gun and it comes right off....no spanner,no socket trick,just a fast 500ft/lbs
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I dare you to try that with the sideways 1MZ in my car, or the 5MZ in the Highlander. The back pulley is completely buried.

What'cha gonna do NOW Mr. SmartyPants?? :p
 
Boogered up the NEW head gasket dropping the PS head on...
Couldnt find the dowles, the gasket slipped down and before I knew it (while I jockeying for position) I had marred the edge and creased the back corner. :bang::crybaby:
The thought DID cross my mind to let it roll, but....I went a got a new HG. Individually it was 64 bucks with tax....FAWKING OUCH!!!!!
Expensive mistake!!!!! Better the added cost than having to do this whole bitch over again.
Got the heads on, the bolts SNUGGED and I called it a night.
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
Good deal, the hard part is over!!! :D Just take your time putting it all back together and you'll be good to go! :cheers:
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Thanks man.
Still wating for the injectors to come in, so I have GOBS of time to get everything done up to THAT point.
Im worried about the hoses. I hope those all go back in the right spot. It made sense on how I labeled initially....Hopefully it makes sense going back together.
 
One tip to keep in mind as you near the end of the project: you'll be anxious and excited to see the thing run, but take your time. The thermostat is on the bottom hose on that engine, so coolant can't flood back up into the engine when you fill the radiator. Result: it can overheat when you start it up the first time (seen it happen). I always refill the coolant by backfilling the top of the engine, thru the top rad hose. Once the engine is full, then I put the hose back on and fill the radiator.
 
KLF said:
One tip to keep in mind as you near the end of the project: you'll be anxious and excited to see the thing run, but take your time. The thermostat is on the bottom hose on that engine, so coolant can't flood back up into the engine when you fill the radiator. Result: it can overheat when you start it up the first time (seen it happen). I always refill the coolant by backfilling the top of the engine, thru the top rad hose. Once the engine is full, then I put the hose back on and fill the radiator.
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DOH!!!!!
I DIDNT DRAIN THE BLOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:doh::bang::doh:
How do you drain the block on these!?!?!?

The injectors came in today, so I was gonna get after it first thing!!!!

Thanks for the tip on filling. That jogged my brain!
 
Wayneraintree said:
Hey man! Cheers for taking this on, what a nightmare :) I had a gold 95 4runner with OME and 3.0, sold it before anything could go wrong with the engine.

I would have considered swapping in a 22RE driveline instead, considering :D

Good write up :popcorn:
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Thanks man.
Its been an experience for sure. If I can get it back together CORRECTLY and it runs at least as well as it did before, Ill be happy. It actually ran pretty well. With all the CRAP that I had found, especially the injectors, Im AMAZED that it ran that well.
TOYOTA!!! Despite the nightmare engineering on this, you still gotta love it.
 
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