Help - Rig pulls to the right (1 Viewer)

FloridaFJ80

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I need some help my rig is pulling to the right while driving, and now I am noticing uneven wear on the front DS tire.

Here is some background on my rig.
  • front and rear J springs 4" lift
  • MAF 2" Drop down caster brackets
  • front and rear Adjustable panhards - recently replaced
  • Rebuilt front axle - about 5k ago
  • replaced all TRE with OEM about 5k miles ago
  • Replaced all brake calipers with new OEM ones about 10k miles ago
  • just performed a driveway alignment via toolsrus FAQ thread toe is set to 1/8" (front of hub 59 1/2" and rear side of hub 59 5/8" from Passenger side hub)
  • Havent done any tire rotations, tires are TOYO MT 35" have about 15k on them
Questions?
  • When changing TRE's is there any specific instructions? I just took out the rear rod measured, and changed the TRE from both sides I put the new TRE as close as to the measurement I took before removing the old ones. I am thinking my DS front wheel has a little more toe than the PS dont know if this is related to the it pulling right. I did the same with the drag link.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
 
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It sounds like you need to get the alignment fixed, and then it might keep pulling if the tire wear is really uneven. Good luck!
 
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There is very little to do as far as an "alignment" on an 80 Series. You have a toe in/out adjustment which is the length of the tie rod. That's pretty much it. The relay rod will adjust steering wheel center.
You can't have different values for toe on each wheel unless the axle housing is bent.
If you're getting uneven wear on the front tires then it's time to put the truck on a rack and have it professionally checked.
 

murf

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first swap the front tires side to side and drive again. This will take a few minutes and you will have your answer.

Many times I see a radial tire pull. If it goes straight or the other direction after the side to side swap, then you have a radial pull in your tire. if it goes straight, leave it on and call it good.

If stays the same, follow jonhelds advise and get a pro alignment.
 
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Try tire pressure, alignment, wheel bearings...

Then look at the brake calipers, stuck/dragging Pistons are my bet. Chased down something similar on a '95 cruiser, PITA to trace down...
 
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That's A LOT of toe in if 1/8" @ the hubs. Probably 3/8" out at the tires. Definitely suspect.

Try 1/16" on the rotors, which would more closer represent 1/8" on the tires.
 

landtank

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That's A LOT of toe in if 1/8" @ the hubs. Probably 3/8" out at the tires. Definitely suspect.

Try 1/16" on the rotors, which would more closer represent 1/8" on the tires.

no kidding, I run 1/8" at the tread on 35" tires. And with a 4" lift the correct drop bracket would be 4". So you are likely under the caster spec and possibly in the negative range.
 

ranma21

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Have you checked your wheel bearing? Mine caused a pull to the right as well, have alignment done twice and still pull. Finally trace down to slightly loose wheel bearing, retighten to spec and all is good. :)
 

bhicks

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I had the same issue and it ended up being a bad tire. I swapped the front tires and now it pulled the other way. I guess you get what you pay for when you buy used tires off craigslist. The tire wants to wear quicker then the rest so it now stays on the rear axle and I just rotate the other 3 across the front axle. Putting the bad tire to the rear made the pull to one side much less.
 

sleeoffroad

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Never understood tie measurements as a length unless it is specified as how far from center of axle is measurement. Even when people say it is at the tire. What tire size? If you have pull get a proper as alignment done. It will tell you if it is alignment related or if it is something else.
 

FloridaFJ80

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Clarification:
  • just performed a driveway alignment via toolsrus FAQ thread toe is set to 1/8" (front of hub 59 1/2" and rear side of hub 59 5/8" from Passenger side hub)
  • I left a key piece of info out. I measured the OD of my tire which gave me 35", I then used Toolrus FAQ thread and removed my tires and using some aluminum angle clamped to the rotor, i measure 17.5" forward from hub center and 17.5" rear from center. I took measurements at the 17.5" points respectively. This gave me my 1/8" toe in measurement.
I found these instructions in my FSM. When I replaced my TRE's I didnt have the FSM, so I tried my best to get the new TRE as close to measurement as the ones I removed. Yesterday I purchased a Digital caliper and measured the distances of the remaining threads on each side of the TRE and there was approx 1-2mm difference. So I removed all my TRE's and measured as per the FSM. I got it to spec and put them on the rig.



Today I am going to center my axle some more by way of my adjustable panhard rods, used the eyeball method and it seems to be off by about a 1/4". Then I will perform another driveway alignment adjusting my toe-in to 1/8" using the same method in the FAQ.
 

FloridaFJ80

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no kidding, I run 1/8" at the tread on 35" tires. And with a 4" lift the correct drop bracket would be 4". So you are likely under the caster spec and possibly in the negative range.

You are correct. I will be replacing my MAF drop down brackets with some Caster plates, this coming week.

Have you checked your wheel bearing? Mine caused a pull to the right as well, have alignment done twice and still pull. Finally trace down to slightly loose wheel bearing, retighten to spec and all is good. :)

If it was pulling to the right as well, I would assume it was the PS bearing that was loose?
 

landtank

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Never understood tie measurements as a length unless it is specified as how far from center of axle is measurement. Even when people say it is at the tire. What tire size? If you have pull get a proper as alignment done. It will tell you if it is alignment related or if it is something else.

Unlike a truck with rack and pinion where each side is adjusted independently, our trucks have a single tierod so there is only 1 adjustment for toe. Measuring from the center is an option on a rack but not needed.

Also our minimum toe spec is 0*. So regardless of tire size if they are parallel when pointing straight ahead then toe is in spec.

I adjust my 35" tires to measure a 1/8" difference at the tread surface. So the resulting toe, whatever it is, is well within spec.
 

sleeoffroad

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Unlike a truck with rack and pinion where each side is adjusted independently, our trucks have a single tierod so there is only 1 adjustment for toe. Measuring from the center is an option on a rack but not needed.

Also our minimum toe spec is 0*. So regardless of tire size if they are parallel when pointing straight ahead then toe is in spec.

I adjust my 35" tires to measure a 1/8" difference at the tread surface. So the resulting toe, whatever it is, is well within spec.
Yes, I just wanted to point out that a lot of people just say "just set the tire at 1/8" but leave the part out as to where it is measured. OP clarified that as well in how he did it. Don't want newbies read this and set it to 1/8 with 31" tire and expect it to be right.

Also toe is the only thing you can set easily but that does not mean it is the only thing that can be out.
 

landtank

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you're right. I've never read the Tools thread so I have no idea what he is instructing people to do.

I place a piece of blue tape on each tire on the forward facing area and draw a fine line cross hair on it with the horizontal line at the same height as the center of the hub. I then measure the distance between the two vertical lines using the 1" mark as a starting point for better accuracy than the hook on the end of the tape measure.

I then rotate the tires 180* so the horizontal lines are once again the same distance off the floor as the center of the hub and measure the distance there.

Compare the two measurements and adjust and check until the front is closer by 1/8" for a 35" tire. On a 33" tire you would want to lessen the difference so around 1/16" would be better.

I know some people like to use a lot of toe to help with a vague feeling in the steering wheel but I've found that if the caster is in spec that isn't much of an issue.
 
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you're right. I've never read the Tools thread so I have no idea what he is instructing people to do.

So your replies were without reading it? I didn't and don't "instruct people to do" anything, simply shared what works for us.

... I know some people like to use a lot of toe to help with a vague feeling in the steering wheel but I've found that if the caster is in spec that isn't much of an issue.

Toe and caster are different things that work in conjunction and only at speed. The toe spec is wide, 0-.160", set it anywhere in that range and it will drive fine, likely not as well as it could, but fine. The stock spec is for a stock rig, lifting, putting bigger/harder tires, etc, significantly changes the handling characteristics, so some experimenting can result a better handling rig. If you know what to look for, setting toe at 0, then .160" on the same rig will make a big difference at speed. Once modified the ideal setting is likely to differ from stock, for instance, mine likes less toe in than most, likely due to the tires, rigs the have front drive (in our case AWD) have different needs than RWD (in our case converted).
 

landtank

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So your replies were without reading it? I didn't and don't "instruct people to do" anything, simply shared what works for us.

semantics, people read those entries in the FAG as a "how to" on any particular subject. Just as you perceived my post as a critique of your FAQ entry and done so without reading it. When I was simply stating that my post of how I perform the task was not in response to something I read from you.
 

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