HELP!!! engine just died???

[Dave E]

ok I'm out driving around, headed up a hilll and the einge dies. I can get it to restart, but it only runs for a couple seconds. It appears to have gas going into the carb, but when I pull out the choke, it restarts and runs but sputters. I can't pull off in 1st, so I put it in low range and make it up the hill. Going down the other side it seems to pick up power and runs better. I stop for a minute at a store, and with the choke pulled out the engine is surging. I pull back on the road in high range now and it does ok. 10 miles later, I'm home and pull inthe drive way. 20 feet later, it dies again. Wont restart. I'm guessing its timing. Check the timing. (it had acted like it was fireing before TDC when I tried to restart it) Its out. I try to adjust it, but when I get the ball at the timing mark, it wont run more than 30 sec before it dies. Can this be a bad dizy vacumme advance? I'm kinda at a loss here.


Thanks
Dave

 

[e rock]

Probably not the vacuum advancer. It shouldn't be a factor at idle unless it managed to sieze in the fully advanced position which would be rare I think.

I know you sadi it looks like there's fuel flowing, but it sure sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me. Check or replace filters first since they're cheaper and easier. Then I'd look to the pump. Do you have a carb bowl sight window? Is it possible that the needle valve got stuck open and it's flooding the engine? That would sorta explain why it did ok on the road while driving, but it dies when idling.

Intermittent things are the worst. An in-line fuel pressure gauge would probably be a good way to spend a few bucks just to know what's going on there.

 

[airon23]

I'm no expert but I'm with e rock in that it sounds like a fuel thing. I second the fuel filter idea and then the pump. Could be something that simple.
Good luck

 

[Romer]

How old is your fuel filter. Mine sputtered real bad at higher speed. Gas was getting to the carb, just not enough. Replaced the filter ($14) and no more problem. If you have not changed ypour filter in a while, wouldn't hurt anything to change it. With intermittant prblems, sometimes the only way to fix them is to figure out what its not by taking potentials off the list.

I don't know if setting the timing while its sputtering gives the correct timing to the ball. Don't know.

 

[Landpimp]

almost sound like what my 45LPB did once, the carb float had a pin hole in it, the float would sink and act like yours.

I would say fuel problem of some kind.

 

[Dave E]

Well the fuel filter is less than 100 miles old, but thats an easy fix. Anyone have a spare non usa asin carb in good shape they arent using???

Dave

 

[tucker74]

If you want to check into fixing the flote or vacuum advance here's where you can get what you need. They also sell new non-usa carbs ... of course any carb is going to be pricey.

Good luck!

Tucker

 

[Landpimp]

take a look at the sight glass on the front of the carb, that will tell you something, if empty or full you got a problem, it should sit half way(give or take a bit)

 

[3_puppies]

Well the fuel filter is less than 100 miles old, but thats an easy fix. Anyone have a spare non usa asin carb in good shape they arent using???

Dave

Are you sure some PO didn't put another inline filter on it? has happened before

 

[Gundy]

It's probably fuel related as suggested, but I've had points suddenly go fritzzy
and cause symptoms that mimic carb problems. The come and go nature seems
to suggest fuel. I see you checked the dizzy out. Did you check point gap?
Match book works in a pinch for this. Don't ask. BTDT.
Good luck.

 

[IDave]

If your shop tachometer/voltmeter has a dwell meter, like mine happens to, it is an easy thing to check points gap: it will be 41 degrees dwell plus or minus 2, if the gap is correct. You don't even need to open up the dizzy to do it!

On the fuel issue: Don't forget to check the screen filter in the carb at the entrance port for the fuel. It, too, can get clogged. Other ports and passages in the carb may also get clogged. The Seafoam through the carb trick can help with that: all short of replacing your carb.

 

[Pinion]

I had a problem like this with a motor swap I did a long time ago. I switched carbs, still had the problem, changed out fuel filters and the problem was still there. It ended up being that the ignitor went bad. It worked for a little while, and then when I would accelerate after driving for a bit it would cut out like described. I opened up the hood and the ignitor was really hot. I swapped it out for the other ignitor I had and the problem went away.