My understanding is that the Gen 2 kit unplugs both of the drivers and takes the place of those, or at least that is how the previous owner of my 13' had installed theirs. Any idea if drivers are contributing factor with the gen 2 kit?
Help! Code P2442 Secondary AIR System Switching Valve Stuck Open
- Thread starter Blake Loggins
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Does this problem affect the drivability of the vehicle or does it just throw a code?
for me, code can be cleared but recurs at variable rates. I've had it stay clear for hundreds of miles or in the last round went 1100 miles or as frequent as 35 miles.
edit: vehicle goes into limp mode every time code populates.
Damn nightmare, hope this gets remedied!
What bypass are you running? I have ran 2 different kinds, one problematic, one not.
This along with some other emissions related systems are a complete waste of time and a huge expense for the consumer. 2006 Sequoia had/has the same issue. Took it to the dealership where they said $3500 and I said no thanks. I was hoping the recall would have been expanded making it a covered repair. Next move was to my regular mechanic who did it for $2400. If I remember correctly the parts are about 1/5th of the cost. About a year later it came back, but it was another part of the system. At that point I had found the out about the bypass and bought it...problem solved.
It is probably a government mandated system, but the manufacturers should at least have the decency to make it easily accessible to repair. All these systems make in many cases force people to move into new cars with even more systems that can wipe out the value of a car/truck 10 years down the road. People with plenty of money pay and move on, while others who stretched to purchase the vehicle they wanted are staring down obscene repairs for something that has nothing to do with drivability. Blown engine or transmission I can see where it makes sense to repair as the car is somewhat more valuable than with an engine with 125,000 or more on it, but crap like this where the car is in effect worthless are ridiculous. I understand that the repair makes sense if it fixes the problem and you like the vehicle, but for many it is the trigger to being forced into buying new knowing the next failure might be just around the corner.
Luckily there are enterprising people who build things to prevent vehicles from going to the junk pile.
It is probably a government mandated system, but the manufacturers should at least have the decency to make it easily accessible to repair. All these systems make in many cases force people to move into new cars with even more systems that can wipe out the value of a car/truck 10 years down the road. People with plenty of money pay and move on, while others who stretched to purchase the vehicle they wanted are staring down obscene repairs for something that has nothing to do with drivability. Blown engine or transmission I can see where it makes sense to repair as the car is somewhat more valuable than with an engine with 125,000 or more on it, but crap like this where the car is in effect worthless are ridiculous. I understand that the repair makes sense if it fixes the problem and you like the vehicle, but for many it is the trigger to being forced into buying new knowing the next failure might be just around the corner.
Luckily there are enterprising people who build things to prevent vehicles from going to the junk pile.
2008 LC, 120,200 miles. Truck was running perfect until Thurday morning when I got the VSC, CEL and blinking 4lo. Scanner shows P2442. I belive i have considered and eliminated all other potential malfunctions that would trip this set of lights (battery, gas cap, vehicle shifts to 4lo and CDL engages with no issues) so its pretty clear this is the real deal unfortunately. I disconnected the battery on Thurday morning to clear the lights and get out of limp mode. Drove perfect to work but then had to remove negative cable again for the trip back home. Friday morning porduced the same results since the AIS monitor needs a cold soak of 8 hrs to reach "Has Run" status. It was clear that the pump was running longer than normal and had a diffrent squeal to it than im used to hearing. Disconnect negative cable again to make it to work. However, truck started and drove no issues as i went about my
Last edited:
day running errands with several shut downs and start ups. Thought i was in the clear but this morning i get the same code. So I startrt looking into the bypass kit and doing my due dilligence on the subject. Seems like the Hewitt kit is the only logical option as changing the pumps and valves, even myself, seems not only like a massive pain but people are reporting that it may not even solve the issue. Im going to order the kit, I guess Im just looking for some comfort from others that have dealt with this issue. I live in an Emissions Testing state some despite what ive read im hesitant about passing next year. Luckily i had the truck inspected on Monday and passed so
I have a year to figure things out. Should I just do the kit and forget about it or should i be looking into getting rid of the truck? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
I have a year to figure things out. Should I just do the kit and forget about it or should i be looking into getting rid of the truck? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
Went with the Gen-II SAIS bypass kit from Hewitt Tech. Will update when I have it installed...
let me know how it goes. I installed the bypass and code came back. I emailed Hewit tech and they replied quickly. I have since installed the pressure sensor option and haven't had any issues since.
Bypass Kit Addon Gen 2: Pressure Sensor Replacement | Hewitt Tech
Pressure Sensor Replacement is to be used in place of air switching valves or damaged pressure sensors. These are used only with the Gen 2 (Standard) Bypass kits and is not compatible with the Gen 2 (3 Valve) or Gen 1 Bypass Kits. Not a stand along product, must be used with Bypass Kit.
hewitt-tech.com
I'd install the gen 2 kit and see what happens - you may need the pressure sensor over ride as well. It has worked so far for my 2013 200 series. you can always just get a scan gauge so you can get rid of code while driivng lol - thats what I did while I was trying to figure things out.
Wanted to circle back on this. Received the Hewitt Gen II bypass kit and very impressed with quality and packaging. However, I do not have it installed at this point. I have yet to see the code present itself in 5 days so I am waiting to see if this issue presents itself again. I personally do not want to install the bypass kit but will do if this continues to reoccur.
If you are not familiar with this code, it puts you into limp mode immediately (for my 2008 that means no faster than 20-25mph at extremely high revs) and seems to be remedied with a simple unplug of the negative battery cable or do what @Markuson suggests and put a scan tool, even a cheap one, in your "tool kit" as this takes seconds compared to pulling over, etc.
The main issue from the Tundra sites seems to be failure of the air valves (pictured at the top) which from what you can see requires the intake to be removed in order to replace, or the air pumps themselves of which there are two that sit next to the passenger side wheel well. The hoses pictured above wrap around the front of the engine next to the Oil dip-stick continue down the passenger wheel well by the power steering pump and loop behind the wheel well, connect to the air pumps and from there the ends, or "trumpets", finally stop next to the air filter intake breather hole in the wheel well. There is speculation that the placement of the pumps and trumpets leads to moisture entering the system and over time damaging parts. Replacement of factory parts is rather expensive but what really makes replacing components a no go in my book is reports of the issue returning despite spending the cash. I'm not willing to take that $3-4k gamble.
So the easy solution appears to be the bypass kit and Hewitt Tech does a great job of explaining what the product does along with installation videos and I see nothing but positive reviews and satisfied customers, but for me this is going to be last resort.
This really caught me off-guard when it occurred last week because it came out of nowhere and unlike the water pump, starter, radiator and the other usual preventative maintenance/on going issues that are discussed on this forum constantly, this one was not on my radar at all, and frankly I am surprised its not brought up more frequently based on how common it is on the Tundra.
After doing my due diligence, I decided to go unplug the majority of the the connections from the system, clean the ones easily accessible, and plug back in. I guess this was mostly to make me feel warm and fuzzy inside but I have yet to see the code return. Again, the truck was running perfect, just got done with the 120k maintenance, and had zero indication of any issues.
Food for thought:
Two days before the code presented itself I had the truck inspected at the same shop who inspected it the last two years. No issues before inspection, the truck then passed inspection, and then still no issues after inspection for about 48 hours.
It was unusually humid over the past week and the truck is kept in a garage. It did seem more muggy in the garage than usual when leaving for work last week.
I have no idea if any of that plays a role in this being a fluke but either way the permanent solution is sitting on the shelf, if need be. I'm crossing my fingers that the glitch has been resolved as my scan tool shows all 8 ECU Monitors as "Has Run" and operating normally since Saturday.
Thanks to @CharlieS and @jreeder3 for the feedback!
Just got the error code this weekend...what a pain in the ass. Cleared the codes and everything has been fine but have a diagnostics tool on the way since i'm headed to big bend Thursday
curious what you find out - my code popped up again months after installing the gen 2 kit and then I got a code again and replaced with the pressure sensor override kit on one side. Code came back and it looks like the sensor on the other side is out now. I'm hoping with this 3rd piece, (the 2nd pressure sensor) I'll never see this code again unless one of the sensors or aftermarket harness goes bad. Please update your findings, i'm curious what yours is doing.
Is it a 200 series? What year?
Seems like an intermittent issue for my LC. I clear the codes and am usually good for a couple of years. The dealer cost to repair is silly so I looked at getting the parts myself or going with an aftermarket fix. Have not done anything yet.
YEs sir it's an '09 200 series (LX)
Just went into limp mode this morning. Checked the code, P2442. 149k on the odometer, 08 LX. It stays in the driveway each night and we have had a ton of rain lately due to the hurricane. Not really wanting to spend $3500 on it. I’m going to be ready to clear the code and see how the next few weeks go.