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That orange stuff would happen to be dried rust dust from the cooling system. The PO did not stay on top of the cooling system maintenance like she should have. So when i bought truck i replaced all the hoses, flushed the cooling system, and had the radiator cleaned at a radiator shop. When i replaced the hoses i decided not to replace the heater hoses that feed the rear heater, i just capped those hard lines off.Wow that's innovative, thanks for sharing. Clean install. What's the orange stuff going down what I think is the rear heater line?
Cut yourself a big sheet of 1/2-3/4-inch high-quality ply; not the cheap stuff. Make it about 3 feet wide, and long enough to reach from the ARB top rail to the shelf just below the vents in front of the windshield. Plus 6 inches. Now cut a couple of short 2x4s, maybe 18 inches. Put the big board up there, rest on that lip and ARB top rail. Now lift the front end of the board and rest the 2x4s on ARB top rail and front of the truck, avoiding anything fragile. Space them out. Lower board and you're good to go. Move all three pieces left or right as needed to clear whatever. If you need more height, stack 2x4s after gluing together. Check clearance before boarding, so to speak. I've been as heavy as 250, using single 2x4s, and the board didn't flex enough to be a problem. Use it for everything that's hard to reach.So I need to do this but am struggling to reach back there. Any tips to actually get to the harness? My usual 2x6 across the engine bay isn't working.
I also don't see the post Tools posted a picture of but it must be attached to something because there's clearance to the EGR pipe. However, I can see right through the insulation at the top of the firewall.
Also how far into the plastic sleeve does the original wrap go? I have a trip tomorrow so if nothing else may wrap the heatshield around from where the plastic sleeve ends up to the firewall without removing the existing wrap.
Not really an easy way if you have your engine intact. I used a step stool over to the side.So I need to do this but am struggling to reach back there. Any tips to actually get to the harness? My usual 2x6 across the engine bay isn't working.
I also don't see the post Tools posted a picture of but it must be attached to something because there's clearance to the EGR pipe. However, I can see right through the insulation at the top of the firewall.
Also how far into the plastic sleeve does the original wrap go? I have a trip tomorrow so if nothing else may wrap the heatshield around from where the plastic sleeve ends up to the firewall without removing the existing wrap.
forum.ih8mud.com
Good idea, I balanced on a 2x6 for throttle body and EGR work previously but this harness is really down in there, couldn't find a way but a bigger sheet and raising it up above the radiator makes sense.Cut yourself a big sheet of 1/2-3/4-inch high-quality ply; not the cheap stuff. Make it about 3 feet wide, and long enough to reach from the ARB top rail to the shelf just below the vents in front of the windshield. Plus 6 inches. Now cut a couple of short 2x4s, maybe 18 inches. Put the big board up there, rest on that lip and ARB top rail. Now lift the front end of the board and rest the 2x4s on ARB top rail and front of the truck, avoiding anything fragile. Space them out. Lower board and you're good to go. Move all three pieces left or right as needed to clear whatever. If you need more height, stack 2x4s after gluing together. Check clearance before boarding, so to speak. I've been as heavy as 250, using single 2x4s, and the board didn't flex enough to be a problem. Use it for everything that's hard to reach.
Interesting, I assumed the solid plastic loom along the firewall was reasonably protected and it's mainly the exposed area near the EGR pipe that disintegrates. Good to know.Not really an easy way if you have your engine intact. I used a step stool over to the side.
Just gotta lean over and get comfortable with being uncomfortable.
It isn’t difficult, just awkward and time consuming. When I took my plastic protector off, I found most of the original wrap was disintegrating. It went all the way up along the firewall. I very carefully removed all the original wrap and used electrical tape to tightly wrap the entire length and then used a new heat reflective sleeve over that.
I wanted to be able to reuse the plastic protector so I was mindful to keep it tight.
Funnily I had that thread open. Didn't see the tie post this evening but will try again. Should have done this when I had the TB off along with the heater valve.This thread has some good pictures of the harness and where it is supposed to attach.
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melted engine wire harness
I did a search and found this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=144478 Which is great if I'm going to replace the entire harness. Yesterday I was puting along a few blocks away from my house when all of a sudden my LC sputtered and shut off. I had a friend drag me back home...forum.ih8mud.com