headgasket

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Barry,
Leave the drain plug out of the pan and the filter off for a few hours, and the engine will be pretty well drained. The coolant that remains in the oil is minor. When the new engine is taken out and flogged on the interstate for an hour, the oil temp will be 220deg F, which is enough to turn much of the residual water and coolant into steam which will be sucked out of the crankcase by the PCV system.

If there was a failed oil cooler that allowed significant quantities of oil into the cooling system, then you have to worry about getting the oily residue out of the radiator and heater cores and heater hose. It's bad for heat exchange, and it attacks coolant hoses over time.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Barry,
Leave the drain plug out of the pan and the filter off for a few hours, and the engine will be pretty well drained. The coolant that remains in the oil is minor. When the new engine is taken out and flogged on the interstate for an hour, the oil temp will be 220deg F, which is enough to turn much of the residual water and coolant into steam which will be sucked out of the crankcase by the PCV system.

If there was a failed oil cooler that allowed significant quantities of oil into the cooling system, then you have to worry about getting the oily residue out of the radiator and heater cores and heater hose. It's bad for heat exchange, and it attacks coolant hoses over time.
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Excellent. Thanks.

I'm going to follow the manuals and read as many threads on it as I can. Have any other bits of advice before I plunge in?

bh
 
Also, to help flush out the pan, you can use an extra quart of oil if you wanted.

The OEM head gasket has a tab on one end. Make sure that it goes in the back and that the oil passage isn't covered up. Ask me how I know!!

Once the head is back on, and you have her running, get her up to temp and then re-check/re-torque the head bolts. And I guess if the head is out, have the valve stem seals replaced.
 
A friend mentioned the possibility that putting a freshly ground head in might be hard on the pistons. That is, if the motor parts have worn down evenly together over time, putting a new head and valves in will be too much for other, older parts which are more worn. Is this something I should be concerned about?

If this is true it seems replacing the head gasket would always involve doing a complete rebuild.

Overcoming ingnorance,

bh
 
hopefully not just spewing

on a previous 2f engine i had some head problems and blew a few gaskets. another local cruiser head recommended that we put 2 head gaskets in after having the head surfaced and valves checked, etc.

i had blown 2 single head gaskets prior to this - so i figured he knew what he was talking about. put the 2 gaskets in and kept the car for 3 years before selling it with no more problems.

would be interested in what others thought of this strategy... and the thought on using 2 exhaust manifold gaskets instead of the required one when there is leaking there. (not trying to hijack the thread)
 
srplus said:
on a previous 2f engine i had some head problems and blew a few gaskets. another local cruiser head recommended that we put 2 head gaskets in after having the head surfaced and valves checked, etc.

i had blown 2 single head gaskets prior to this - so i figured he knew what he was talking about. put the 2 gaskets in and kept the car for 3 years before selling it with no more problems.

would be interested in what others thought of this strategy... and the thought on using 2 exhaust manifold gaskets instead of the required one when there is leaking there. (not trying to hijack the thread)
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Were those both Toyota, factory gaskets?
 
True what he says, the engine can become a very efficient oil pump when you add new valve job to old rings. Valves seal so well, they pull oil past the worn rings, leading you to apply for a job as a mosquito sprayer. You can do an in frame overhaul, as the pistons can come out without pulling the block. As long as you don't have bad vertical scoring, everything measures out good, pull the pistons, hone, re-ring, and back together.



ps40-2 said:
A friend mentioned the possibility that putting a freshly ground head in might be hard on the pistons. That is, if the motor parts have worn down evenly together over time, putting a new head and valves in will be too much for other, older parts which are more worn. Is this something I should be concerned about?

If this is true it seems replacing the head gasket would always involve doing a complete rebuild.

Overcoming ingnorance,

bh
Click to expand...
 
ps40-2 said:
A friend mentioned the possibility that putting a freshly ground head in might be hard on the pistons. That is, if the motor parts have worn down evenly together over time, putting a new head and valves in will be too much for other, older parts which are more worn. Is this something I should be concerned about?

If this is true it seems replacing the head gasket would always involve doing a complete rebuild.

Overcoming ingnorance,
bh
Click to expand...
Barry,
If there is a bunch of miles on the bottom end, and the oil consumption is noticeable now, then doing a valve job & mill will only make it worse.

But if the bottom end is in good condition, then there shouldn't be a problem.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Barry,
If there is a bunch of miles on the bottom end, and the oil consumption is noticeable now, then doing a valve job & mill will only make it worse.

But if the bottom end is in good condition, then there shouldn't be a problem.
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170k miles. I'm adding a quart maybe every 4-6 weeks. Does that constitute noticeable?
 
on the gaskets replaced in my old cruiser the first two repalcements were OEM toyota parts done with head jobs... both done by chevy dealer that sold me the used fj under insurance / warranty coverage. the third time when i replaced the gaskets, etc was with gaskets i got from MAF that i did myself (since the chev dealer would not do any warranty work after time of warranty time was up even tho the problem existed and was repaired twice by them under warranty) - and can not remember brand.

this was also a trick a very old mechanic friend of mine used to use with 50's vintage Kaiser and Willy's J _ _ ps with their 6 cyl engines in the old square SW models that i used to mess with. he swore by it and he had some very good performing J _ _ ps - (for J _ _ps, that is).

any thoughts on the two for one gasket replacement on the exhaust manifold or the head by anybody?
 
ps40-2 said:
170k miles. I'm adding a quart maybe every 4-6 weeks. Does that constitute noticeable?
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How many miles per quart?
I only drive a few hundred miles in 4 weeks, so this would be serious consumption for me.
 
It may be necessary to remove the big-body dissy on the FJ60 to get the side cover off the engine. That dissy is into the side cover, so it's gonna be tough getting it out of there w/ dissy in the way.
 
FJ40Jim said:
It may be necessary to remove the big-body dissy on the FJ60 to get the side cover off the engine. That dissy is into the side cover, so it's gonna be tough getting it out of there w/ dissy in the way.
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Once I've got the motor at TDC is the dis. supposed to just pull out? Do I need a special puller? It doesn't want to budge.
 
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