headgasket

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It is supposed to just slide up & out. doesn't have to be at TDC, there's nothing that has to be in alignment to allow it to disengage. Sounds like the aluminum dissy body is just electrolytically welded into the iron block. Hose it down w/ PB blaster and start tapping on the dissy base and on the side of the block. grab the dissy base w/ a large plier and try twisting back and forth to break it free.

Worst case, drop the oil pan and pound the dissy out from the bottom w/ a brass drift.
 
FJ40Jim said:
It is supposed to just slide up & out. doesn't have to be at TDC, there's nothing that has to be in alignment to allow it to disengage. Sounds like the aluminum dissy body is just electrolytically welded into the iron block. Hose it down w/ PB blaster and start tapping on the dissy base and on the side of the block. grab the dissy base w/ a large plier and try twisting back and forth to break it free.

Worst case, drop the oil pan and pound the dissy out from the bottom w/ a brass drift.
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thanks for the dialogue. very helpful. I'm dealing with the usual rusted bolts. Always the rear/inaccessible ones. The head bolts are giving me trouble at the moment. How goes the long term fuel tank project?
 
New Question

So it looks like I'm ABH--All But Head. (Not All Butthead...........)

Here's the question: Is it absolutely necessary to remove the exhaust manifold? I have removed the intake manifold and all the bolts. I can tug on the exhaust manifold and it pulls away a little bit--enough so that I could slip the gasket out. Will I be able to get the head off with the exhaust manifold just sitting there on the exhaust pipe?

second question: On the front of the engine the thing below the thermostat housing (oil pump?) extends slightly above the line of the head but I can see no bolts holding it to the head from the outside. Does it need to come off before I pull the head?

One way or another, heads coming off tomorrow.
 
Barry, I bought my 60 with a really bad cracked head, found a used head, had it rebuilt(new valves, seats, springs, etc.). I replaced the head myself, didn't even check the tolerances on my rings or pistons, and I've had no noticeable oil consumtion. I currently have 148,000 miles. I did this job nearly 2 years ago. My advice, is to get a Toyota engine shop manual. Once you have this manual, you will have fewer questions, I promise.
Pete
 
Barry,
It is not absolutely necessary to remove the manifolds from the head. I oftentimes pull the head complete w/ manifolds. Just remove/break off the 3 nuts retaining the exh down pipe. Remove head bolts and pick complete head manifold assembly straight up off block. An engine crane is required. Once the head assembly is out on the floor, the manifolds can be knocked off in one minute w/ the impact gun. Assembly is the reverse.

No, the waterpump has no connection to the front of the head. The head just has to be picked up enough to get up & over the WP.
 
bobperu said:
My advice, is to get a Toyota engine shop manual.
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Is this the same as the FSM 2f Engine repair manual: white cover with a green stripe at the top, black stripe at the bottom? I have this but I'm not sure if it's fj60 specific.

The head bolt next to the fire wall--right side as you face the windshield--is really stuck.........
 
Victory

Well, it is done. I have seen the piston heads. It took a 6foot long pipe from a busted futon, slid down on a breaker bar to loosen the stubborn bolt. After that they all came off like butter. Today the head, tomorrow the machine shop!

First rebuild!

Thanks to all who have contributed advice.
 
a little bummed

Well, not sure what to do at this point. Got the call from the machinest today. He says the head is cracked in several places. Any advice out there?

I could order a used one from cruiserparts for $350. He says its not cracked or warped. Can I trust this?

Is there any chance the block is cracked too? Any way to find out without pulling the whole thing?

Looks like she's gonna be sitting for a while.
 
block?

A friend says he has a 2f head which I can have for a case of beer. Won't find a better deal.


To anyone's knowledge, is there a simple test to find out if the block is cracked or seriously warped or do I have to put it all back together and run a compression test?
 
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Make sure your friends cylinder head is a 61040 casting. 61030 or 61031 are open chamber and give very low compression numbers if bolted on to the FJ60 block.

Simple test for block deck warpage is lay the straightedge on it and see how thick a feeler blade can be shoved under the straightedge.

Cracks are harder to find w/ the engine assembled.

But, it has been years since I saw a cracked 2F block. Ususally, when the gasket blows and the head cracks, the engine is shut down (forcibly) so no more damage can be done to the block. since the block runs much cooler than the head, it doesn't usually crack from an overheat event.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Make sure your friends cylinder head is a 61040 casting. 61030 or 61031 are open chamber and give very low compression numbers if bolted on to the FJ60 block.

Simple test for block deck warpage is lay the straightedge on it and see how thick a feeler blade can be shoved under the straightedge.

Cracks are harder to find w/ the engine assembled.

But, it has been years since I saw a cracked 2F block. Ususally, when the gasket blows and the head cracks, the engine is shut down (forcibly) so no more damage can be done to the block. since the block runs much cooler than the head, it doesn't usually crack from an overheat event.
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As they say in these parts, U the Man!

I read about the straight edge thing in Ellery's. Hope to try it shortly. Thanks for the input. Sounds hopeful for my block. I drove it a couple of miles after the incident, but it wasn't in the red zone. I got enough water back in the system to limp it home with the gauge on the borderline. Probably should have had it pulled....

I'm learning lots, the hard way.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Make sure your friends cylinder head is a 61040 casting. 61030 or 61031 are open chamber and give very low compression numbers if bolted on to the FJ60 block.QUOTE]

Turns out its 61030. Does low compression numbers mean unusable or a big loss in power?
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ps40-2 said:
FJ40Jim said:
Make sure your friends cylinder head is a 61040 casting. 61030 or 61031 are open chamber and give very low compression numbers if bolted on to the FJ60 block.QUOTE]
Turns out its 61030. Does low compression numbers mean unusable or a big loss in power?
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To me it means unusable. I've had several FJ60s pass through the shop w/ soggy performance that was attributed to the wrong head. Correct head always fixed them. But they do run w/ the wrong head.

Any way to mill the head to increase the compression numbers?
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I say no, not worth it.:frown:

MarkW says yes, w/ a bunch of milling.:)
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FJ40Jim said:
ps40-2 said:
To me it means unusable. I've had several FJ60s pass through the shop w/ soggy performance that was attributed to the wrong head. Correct head always fixed them. But they do run w/ the wrong head.

I say no, not worth it.:frown:

MarkW says yes, w/ a bunch of milling.:)
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thanks. I'm looking for a straight edge to measure the block. Any particular type I should look for. The one$ I have $een were rather pricey.
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i have heard of rednecks fixing cracks in motors using "JB Weld" now i would suggest that at all but i have heard of it being done.

The weld would definatly become a weak link in the head and weak links aren't good....but i have no idea.

lunyou
 
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