headgasket

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I don't recommend welding on crack-prone 2F combustion chambers. Too risky.

Oh, and the last head I had weld repaired cost me $250. I'd rather have a used, uncracked head, than an overheated cracked & repaired part.

just my $.02.
 
oil pan won't budge

I got all the bolts off the oil pan and it won't come off. Do I have to remove anything besides the oilpan bolts themselves? One of the manuals said something about pulling the oil pump first but I think it was for a later model.

Just the oil pan bolts for the fj60 2f?
 
That oil pan is probably just stuck on. Common deal with a F/2F. One way to remove is to put the stock screw jack between the frame and the pan (with a piece of wood on the pan side). Apply pressure with the jack down low on the side of the pan. Apply pressure and go away for awhile, apply more pressure and go away...eventually the pan will break loose. Sometimes you have to drive a chisel into the gasket to split the pan off. Either way the oil pan can be a PITA to get off if it's been there awhile.

HTH,
Nick
 
zebrabeefj40 said:
That oil pan is probably just stuck on. Common deal with a F/2F. One way to remove is to put the stock screw jack between the frame and the pan (with a piece of wood on the pan side). Apply pressure with the jack down low on the side of the pan. Apply pressure and go away for awhile, apply more pressure and go away...eventually the pan will break loose. Sometimes you have to drive a chisel into the gasket to split the pan off. Either way the oil pan can be a PITA to get off if it's been there awhile.

HTH,
Nick
Click to expand...

thanks. I'll try that. Just want to be sure here: are there any other bolts besides the oilpan bolts holding it on--say the oilpump?
 
Remove all the 12mm hex bolts threaded into the oilpan rail. no other bolts in the front cover or anything tricky like that.

It is just the sticky rubber adhesive, asphalt & cork gasket that has glued the pan to the block, then turned hard as a rock.

Use the jack, some sharp implements, and be patient. It will give up eventually.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Remove all the 12mm hex bolts threaded into the oilpan rail. no other bolts in the front cover or anything tricky like that.

It is just the sticky rubber adhesive, asphalt & cork gasket that has glued the pan to the block, then turned hard as a rock.

Use the jack, some sharp implements, and be patient. It will give up eventually.
Click to expand...

Nice.

Are there any tricks to not stripping the bolts upon removal? I think possibly because of the odd angle of my driveway some of them had the threads partially flattened on the way out.
 
Don't know why it is, but some of the pan bolts always come out w/ the threads a little flattened. I throw all the bolts in the wash tank, and chase the holes in the block w/ an 8mm tap. Everything always goes back together, no problemo.
 
sounds like someone did not have a gasket or cleaned the pan really well and applied silicone to both sides of the gasket (or just used the silicone for a gasket) and torqued down the bolts... wooden wedge sounds like a plan.
 
Lots of progress since the last installment. Oil pan's off, distributors out. Removed the exhaust manifold. ( having thoughts about a header now)

I dropped the new (used) head off at the machine shop and forgot to count the number of valve stem seals I need to order. Can anyone help me out here?
 
I am entering the reconstruction phase of the headgasket replacement.

Before I proceed there are a few things I'm wondering about:

1) How important is it to get the black deposits off the top of the pistons? Should the piston heads be shiny clean? Keep in mind I am not honing the cylinders or replacing the rings.

2) Should some sort of gasket sealer be used before I tighten the head bolts? This question goes for all the gaskets: oil pan, rod cover, manifolds etc.
Whats the best brand?

Thanks again to all who have contributed. Special thanks to Jim C for much good advice and the valve stem seals. Special thanks to Euclid for so much encouragement and breaking the first bolts loose.

:beer:
 
Re. #1)
Not important. The top of the piston doesn't need to be spotless. It's gonna be carboned up as soon as the vehicle is running again. It will be covered in carbon for the next 100K miles until the head is serviced again.

Scrape off any loose crap and shop vac the debris from the cylinders.
 
latest snag

I went to reassemble the manifold today in order to have the machine shop resurface the openings and found to my dismay I had only one heat-riser gasket in the SOR box. Also the heat riser insulator has a crack at on corner. My question is this: Do I go ahead and get a new insulator? SOR has two different ones. Or can the old one be reused as is--will the pressure from the two new gaskets take care of this or am I begging for a leak?

Which direction does the Insulator go? With the opening towards the intake or exhaust? I forgot which way it was pointing when I took it off :doh:

help me obewankenobie.......
 
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Isulator plate should be replaced for best results. IT is installed w/ a gasket on each side. The plate installs w/ the the "hump" up toward the intake, to allow clearance for the heat riser butterfly to operate.

Or you could eliminate the butterfly and install the solid stainless steel plate from SOR.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Isulator plate should be replaced for best results. IT is installed w/ a gasket on each side. The plate installs w/ the the "hump" up toward the intake, to allow clearance for the heat riser butterfly to operate.

Or you could eliminate the butterfly and install the solid stainless steel plate from SOR.
Click to expand...

thanks.

Except for a small crack my insulator plate looks ok. I was think of welding the crack, grinding the weld smooth and reusing it. Opinion?
 
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