Head gasket

[Crush 4]

What are the thoughts around replacing the HG on my 95 LC w 60k as preventative ? I’m planning on racking up a lot more miles on it and that’s really the only “baseline” item I haven’t done.
What say the experts?

 

[nukegoat]

I did it. Don't bother.

 

[LandLocked93]

Not an expert...but what's stopping you?
Dare only theorize that many successive heat cycles 27 years into existence might be harder on the bits that fail than the same number of heat cycles starting from new.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

The whole reason to do baseline is to prevent advanced repairs like a head gasket. If you have baselined the cooling system than the head gasket should last for a very long time.

Except for extremely rare instances the head gaskets don't fail without an overheating event of somekind.

 

[FloridaCruiser22]

No.

 

[jpoole]

I wouldn't on a 60k, well maintained 1FZFE. Reasons that may tip the scales to do it, for me, are:

• burning noticeable levels of oil from the valve seals
• has been overheated in the past or has unmaintained, gunked up cooling system
• all of the rubber hoses are bulging, breaking down or otherwise in need or replacement
• you are prepping for a long trip and can't tolerate the risk of breakdowns (remote areas w family or similar)

My 80 checked all of the above boxes to some extent and clearly wasn't well maintained before I got it so the head came off and a ton of "while in there" occurred. For a higher mile 80 with issues and mystery history a thorough HG job can be a way to gain some solid footing on the large amount of base-lining that's likely needed. That's all assuming that you want the 80 to be reliable, long distance transport and not just an around town or local trail rig.

At 60k with decent maintenance, no overheating in it's past and low oil consumption I'd put my focus on other efforts and not on a HG replacement.

 

[BILT4ME]

The only reason I would say to go ahead is the fact that your truck only has 60k on it.
That means it has sat a LOT and would allow the coolant to have an issue not moving and causing possible electrolysis while sitting.
The system has not gone through lots of heat cycles to maintain it.

Also, your truck is a 95 so it is on the early side of things. There were fewer as production moved along and eventually they changed the design.

It is not uncommon for a vehicle with very low mileage to start out well, then quickly turn to shyt because the hoses have dried out, the exhaust has rusted out, coolant has turned acidic, and when you "suddenly" start heat cycling all of it, things fail.

I'm also of the camp that if it's not broke, don't fix it.

I would replace ALL hoses, thermostat, coolant, belts, and some seals. Then start driving it daily for three months to see what fails.

 

[Crush 4]

Thanks for all the responses so far. I have replaced all hoses, fluids etc. I run a scan gauge and rarely see 195.
The only thing I haven’t done is mess with the fan. Should I consider upgrading that?
Thx in advance
Here is a pic

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Thanks for all the responses so far. I have replaced all hoses, fluids etc. I run a scan gauge and rarely see 195.
The only thing I haven’t done is mess with the fan. Should I consider upgrading that?
Thx in advance
Here is a pic

View attachment 3078599

I would consider doing a radiator, water pump, thermostat, heater control valve, and fan clutch uf you haven't already.

If the actual fan blades are flexible than don't worry. If the fan blades are discolored or seem brittle than swap it.

When you say all hoses does that include the rear hater hoses and phh?

 

[COYS]

[Not an expert]

If everything else on your 80 is in as good a nick as the unmolested exterior above (save for the half arsery up top), should you spend $40K-$50Kish worth of OEM goodies + shop time, you'll get ALL that money back and then some on BaT. Esp so if it's factory locked. It'd be one special super low mileage FZJ80.

But then at 60K miles, fully OEM reconditioned, the Hagerty types are going to severely limit you with a super low per annum mileage cap. You'll end up holding the bag whenever you choose to actually use it. Thus is the conundrum with super mint 80s. It's an appreciating vintage vehicle that can actually be used in the modern age as if it were a new SUV.

 

[COYS]

I would consider doing a radiator, water pump, thermostat, heater control valve, and fan clutch uf you haven't already.

If the actual fan blades are flexible than don't worry. If the fan blades are discolored or seem brittle than swap it.

When you say all hoses does that include the rear hater hoses and phh?

Leonard, my friend, post a pic of your 80. You and this guy are on different planets dude. lmao

 

[Crush 4]

I would consider doing a radiator, water pump, thermostat, heater control valve, and fan clutch uf you haven't already.

If the actual fan blades are flexible than don't worry. If the fan blades are discolored or seem brittle than swap it.

When you say all hoses does that include the rear hater hoses and phh?

Yep on PHh
Do you recommend stock fan clutch?

 

[Kernal]

At a minimum, new Toyota Thermostat and radiator cap if original parts. You could get a couple of serial Engine Oil Analyses (Blackstone Laboratories) to look for signs of coolant in the oil ie: if it ever develops.

 

[Broski]

Don’t over think it !!
Drive it and enjoy

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Yep on PHh
Do you recommend stock fan clutch?

Stock should be great unless your in Phoenix or somewhere extra hot.

 

[LandLocked93]

The only reason I would say to go ahead is the fact that your truck only has 60k on it.
That means it has sat a LOT and would allow the coolant to have an issue not moving and causing possible electrolysis while sitting.
The system has not gone through lots of heat cycles to maintain it.

^ +1

 

[LandLocked93]

Stock should be great unless your in Phoenix or somewhere extra hot.

I'd wager stock in Phoenix, as it was at new, is no sweat.
Tho that was 27 yrs ago.

 

[LandLocked93]

But then at 60K miles, fully OEM reconditioned, the Hagerty types ..

There is also this.
The last 60kmi (61,800mi, '97) LC I saw was in the neighborhood of $60k+.

I naturally skipped to "hell yeah brother" when you said "put alot of miles on it".

 

[jpoole]

Do you recommend stock fan clutch?

I put a new aisin blue hub on my '97 and had the AC shut off a few times shortly after due to the temp getting up in the 220s, roughly. From there I read up on mud and learned to adjust the fan clutch and I've had no heat issues since. Not sure how common it is for an off the shelf blue hub to not work as well as it should but I'd keep an eye on temps after you change any fan clutch and consider tuning it if needed.

You can roughly follow the following guide and others on the forum. Many are running heavier weight oils these days, up into the 30s I think but I put in 15k and it's worked great so there is a range of oil weights that could be a good choice depending on use and climate.

Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk

History: On my first drive this summer after replacing my transmission I was having an overheat condition with the truck. On the following weekend while towing a camper it was real severe in the 230* range. After returning I was able to confirm that my Blue hubbed fan clutch was to blame...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[bhsdriller]

Stock is fine with thicker oil

Holds up great here in the heat