Harrop Eaton E-locker engagement help- 60 series (1 Viewer)

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You should back probe the wires while it's connected and see if you get battery voltage, what is the amp required for the locker unit to engage? I'm not familiar with the locker but what does it have to engage the locker ( solenoid, electric motor etc.)
 
3 ohms sounds about right. 10.8 volts at the connector doesn't sound right. Should be battery voltage. I suspect if you check the voltage with it plugged it (say by back-probing the connector/wires) you will get close to 0v.
 
You should back probe the wires while it's connected and see if you get battery voltage, what is the amp required for the locker unit to engage? I'm not familiar with the locker but what does it have to engage the locker ( solenoid, electric motor etc.)
There’s a relay. 12V power fed to relay through fuse. 12V ignition wire fed to locker light and back to relay. Wire goes from relay to locker and back to relay and ground. Perhaps a bad ground. The wire going to locker is not polarity sensitive.
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3 ohms sounds about right. 10.8 volts at the connector doesn't sound right. Should be battery voltage. I suspect if you check the voltage with it plugged it (say by back-probing the connector/wires) you will get close to 0v.
The volts were close to 12v, it was hard to hold the wire with multimeter probes while taking a picture.
 
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Pulled the locker relay.
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The terminal that is the second down in the horizontal is 12v from battery. I have just over 13v. The top horizontal terminal is the power feed to the locker. The lower left horizontal is the wire to relay from locker light. The lower right horizontal is the ground and wire back from the locker.
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I confirmed I’ve got 12v power to the main power terminal. I checked continuity with my meter and have continuity on the relay between both outside terminals on the bottom. This is the lamp light (right) and ground (left). I plugged the relay in partially so I could test with my meter. No power to the locker power until I turned on the switch. Then had power energize the top terminal sending power down to the locker. Check return power between positive battery terminal and ground/ locker return wire and had 0 volts.
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Have you tried another relay? Is your ground on the battery or the body of the vehicle? Clean all your connections including at the relay.
Is this a factory supplied harness or you built it? If you did, did you solder or just crimp?
 
Plug the locker in. Back probe the wires going to the locker. Scrape some insulation off the wires if you have to. Measure the voltage on the locker's side of the plug. If you have 12v there, then something is internally wrong with the locker.
 
Have you tried another relay? Is your ground on the battery or the body of the vehicle? Clean all your connections including at the relay.
Is this a factory supplied harness or you built it? If you did, did you solder or just crimp?
Everything is factory.
I’m thinking of lifting the front axle again. I can cut the locker wire. Install a fuse on the power side and wire nut the power wire to locker and run the ground back to the negative terminal on the battery. This will show if the locker is the problem or something in the wiring. I can then turn the tires and see if the locker is engaging or not.
 
Have you tried powering up directly to the locker? Have a jumper box were you can apply direct 12v to the locker?
 
Eaton's design is dead simple. You've got a spring acting opposite an electromagnetic ball and cam assembly. You have to have enough electrical energy to overcome the internal spring. Your coil looks healthy.

Put it in 4wd, stick 12VDC to the locker, and roll the tire. If it doesn't click in during that turn, the problem is in the diff ☹.

When it does click in, you should slide out from under the truck, laugh, then enjoy the simple life of resolving electrical gremlins.
 
Problem was the wire harness on the 3rd member
Thank you. How has the locker been so far? Any issues? Did you replace the entire wiring harness with a new one from Eaton or was it a simple fix like replacing the connector or similar?
 
Problem was the wire harness on the 3rd member

Thank you. How has the locker been so far? Any issues? Did you replace the entire wiring harness with a new one from Eaton or was it a simple fix like replacing the connector or similar?

Also curious what this was. I'll need to pull mine as well. Wiring tests good up to the connector on the diff and even applying 12v directly doesn't engage my rear locker. Hoping it's something simple like a connector fell off, but hoping to have an idea of what else could be wrong by the time I open it up.
 
Also curious what this was. I'll need to pull mine as well. Wiring tests good up to the connector on the diff and even applying 12v directly doesn't engage my rear locker. Hoping it's something simple like a connector fell off, but hoping to have an idea of what else could be wrong by the time I open it up.
Before tearing the axle apart I’d cut the wire at the wire harness and connect the wires to the leads off the Elocker that run through the diff just to verify. That harness is the weak link in the entire system.
 
Thank you. How has the locker been so far? Any issues? Did you replace the entire wiring harness with a new one from Eaton or was it a simple fix like replacing the connector or similar?
I’ve had no other issues. It’s worked great for what I need it for.
 
Before tearing the axle apart I’d cut the wire at the wire harness and connect the wires to the leads off the Elocker that run through the diff just to verify. That harness is the weak link in the entire system.
Tried this today by tee-ing a power supply direct to the wires going in to the diff, bypassing the connection. No dice unfortunately. I'll need to pull the diff out.
 
Tried this today by tee-ing a power supply direct to the wires going in to the diff, bypassing the connection. No dice unfortunately. I'll need to pull the diff out.
Are you using the older Harrop/eaton locker harness or the newer, just “eaton” updated harness that comes with the current lockers on the market? I believe they changed the design recently(ish). From what I’ve been reading.
 

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