Harrop Eaton E-locker engagement help- 60 series (1 Viewer)

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Hojack

♠️Project Snowball❄️
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Aug 9, 2016
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Cascade Foothills above Eagle Creek, Oregon 🇺🇸
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Reaching out to those with Harrop Eaton E-locker. I went wheeling in the snow and my locker isn’t engaging. The toggle switch light comes on and have 12V to the harness that connects to the elocker in 3rd member. I’ve tried turning wheel both directions from lock to lock. Wondering if I’m missing something easy? Help would be great.
Thanks Jason
 
FWIW, my factory Toyota 8” Elocker engagement mechanism easily takes on water. If temps are below about 28, the mechanisms will freeze and not actuate.
Lesson learned, I engage it before I leave town or the afternoon before. Maybe similar?
 
No issue with my hubs, they are clearly locked and 4WD operating just fine. I’ve been reading and may be the wiring harness at the 3rd member connection. Was so much snow and being by myself figured I’d check it later and pick the IH8MUD brain.
 
Its just a electromagnet, current is not getting to it, simple as that
 
I mean it's not just an electromagnet. The wiring inside the third member could be faulty, the plug could be faulty, the magnet could be open circuit. The various mechanical pieces inside the locker could be hung up, stuck, or broken. The magnet pulls on a cam plate, which locks the cam plate up, pushing pins, that push on a locking ring to engage the locker. There's quite a few things that have to happen for it to work.
 
I’m going to get the axle off the ground and test it. Should I be able to hear the locker activate in the 3rd member when turning on the locker?
 
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I’m going to get the axle off the ground and test it. Should I be able to hear the locker activate in the 3rd member when turning on the locker?

No but you should see a voltage drop for the draw when activated. It does take 3/4 of a wheel turn to lock. I had issues with the fuse box in the harrop kit. Multimeter showed voltage but wasn't engaging the locker. I tested the elocker with a 9v battery and and it worked. Wired in a waterproof fuse holder from Amazon and haven't had an issue since.
 
No but you should see a voltage drop for the draw when activated. It does take 3/4 of a wheel turn to lock. I had issues with the fuse box in the harrop kit. Multimeter showed voltage but wasn't engaging the locker. I tested the elocker with a 9v battery and and it worked. Wired in a waterproof fuse holder from Amazon and haven't had an issue since.
Thanks this is the information I’m looking for to help me. I know it takes a bit of wheel rotation before locking.
 
Its just a electromagnet, current is not getting to it, simple as that
Electromagnets pull a good deal of current depending on their size. That's their whole principle of operation is that they use electrical current to create a magnetic field.
 
Electromagnets pull a good deal of current depending on their size. That's their whole principle of operation is that they use electrical current to create a magnetic field.

thank you for that +A definition
I mean it's not just an electromagnet. The wiring inside the third member could be faulty, the plug could be faulty, the magnet could be open circuit. The various mechanical pieces inside the locker could be hung up, stuck, or broken. The magnet pulls on a cam plate, which locks the cam plate up, pushing pins, that push on a locking ring to engage the locker. There's quite a few things that have to happen for it to work.

It's a brand new locker that he just installed last year. it is almost certainly a faulty connection
 
thank you for that +A definition


It's a brand new locker that he just installed last year. it is almost certainly a faulty connection
"Bathtub Failure Curve". Things are most likely to fail when they're very new.

Step 1 would be to check continuity of the magnet coil at the connection on the differential. So unplug the connection, put your multimeter across the two pins set to the "Ohms" range, and see what the resistance is. I would expect anywhere from 4-12 ohms.

If there is continuity, then he needs to verify that his plug is making good connection. If his plug is making good connection, and the coil ohms out - then the 3rd member needs to come out.

If he doesn't measure any continuity - then the 3rd member needs to come out.
 
"Bathtub Failure Curve". Things are most likely to fail when they're very new.

That I would tend to agree with. Like Jay from Real St says... N.E.W. Never Ever Worked.
 
thank you for that +A definition


It's a brand new locker that he just installed last year. it is almost certainly a faulty connection
Yeah nevermind, in my exhausted state I had thought you were saying electromagnets don't pull current, rather than explaining that current wasn't reaching it.

My mistake. Press on with pride....
 
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Out of curiosity how do people like an e-locker vs an air locker?

I’ve got both. For the type wheeling I do I prefer the simplicity of the ELocker even though the initial wiring is a bit of a pain in the ass.

The ARB is immediate. Great when in technical places where you engage….Disengage a lot. Hard rock. Cutting brakes etc.

For a guy like me that determines generally I know I’m going into a climb or spot locked the elocker is pretty simple.

And no, I can’t hear mine lock even right next to it on the Rack
 
Removed the wire harness at the locker.
Checked the resistance on the locker Rx1
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Here’s the voltage test on the power side with the locker engaged.
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Lifted the front axle off the ground. Hubs locked. Spin drivers tire and front drive shaft spins. Spin passenger and front drive shaft spins. Engage locker and both tires won’t spin. Really feeling it’s the factory plug.
 

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