GX470 Frame Swap Project

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andyGX470

andyGX470

Joined
Apr 23, 2026
Threads
1
Messages
22
Location
United States
Hi all,

I've been looking for information about swapping a new frame onto my 2006 GX470. I'm from the midwest and although the body is mint the frame is completely shot. There appears to be a few posts here and there about it but nothing conclusive. Wanted to create this thread to document the process for others who might want to do this in the future. Also, if anyone has tips/tricks to suggest as I go through the process that would be appreciated.

Like with many of these GX470s the AC condensation drip line caused the passenger side frame to completely rust out:
1777208618592.webp


Found this frame on ebay and its currently being shipped here.
1777208433639.webp


Yesterday I started by removing all 8 body mounts bolts, both front and rear bumpers, and the rear spare tire. Will post more pictures soon.
 
The location of each body mount (I circled them in red):
1. Just behind the front bumper
2. Under the drivers/passenger seat floormats
3. Just behind the rear seats
4. Inside the trunk pillar covers.

Front body mounts:
1777229284377.webp

Rear driver side mount. Just flip the seat forward, remove the black trim step (2 10m bolts) and pull the carpet back.
1777229370072.webp

Rear mounts are behind the pillars near the tail lights. I used a 1/2 breaker bar with a long socket to hold the bolt on the inside and then an impact driver to unscrew each bolt from the bottom. Even though everything was rusted it came off pretty easy.
1777229182716.webp


Another helpful tip that i've used in many projects is an organized bolt system. This helps to prevent the dreaded 10 bolts left over feeling at the end of the project.
1777229743852.webp


1777229005348.webp
 
Looking forward to seeing the progress on this! Luckily my frame just had some surface rust, but it's certainly tempting to "frame off" one of these and end up with a mint-condition underside.

Any plans to blast/coat/rustproof the new frame and other components before it goes back together?
 
Rednexus said:
Looking forward to seeing the progress on this! Luckily my frame just had some surface rust, but it's certainly tempting to "frame off" one of these and end up with a mint-condition underside.

Any plans to blast/coat/rustproof the new frame and other components before it goes back together?
Click to expand...
Definitely! Looking into how much sand blasting would cost. Probably prime/paint myself.
 
andyGX470 said:
Definitely! Looking into how much sand blasting would cost. Probably prime/paint myself.
Click to expand...
It would probably be several hundred dollars around here, but things are cheap. I'd suggest coating the inside of the frame too so that it does not rust out again :).
 
Status Update - "Houston we have lift off" !

1779043534898.webp


Also, I've received the new frame and its in absolutely mint condition. I also started making videos to keep track of the status of the project. See link below:



Progress made:
  • Drive shaft removed
  • Fuel Tank Cover removed
  • Front break lines removed
  • Radiator detached
  • Rear driver side connectors removed
  • Spare tire removed
  • Fuel Tank power supply removed
  • Glove Box removed
  • Passenger Side computer wiring removed
Still remaining:
  • AC lines
  • Oil Cooler lines
  • Driver side computer wiring? (not sure tbd)

Most of the connections between the body and frame have been removed. As listed above, I still need to figure out how to remove the AC refrigerant lines (maybe i'll just pop them off then recharge the system later?) not the most environmentally friendly thing to do perhaps but not sure i'll have a choice.

I've now started to think about everything I want to replace while I have access to the engine/trans. Here is my list so far, please offer suggestions on anything I've not thought about!

Parts to install:
  1. Water Pump + Inlet Gasket
  2. Timing Belt and Component Kit (AISIN)
  3. Power Steering Pump
  4. Rack and Pinion
  5. Power steering pump seal kit
  6. Engine Mounts
  7. Trans Mounts
  8. Sway Bar End Links
  9. Break line kit (full)
  10. Rear Exhaust
  11. Exhaust manifold gaskets (sounded like it was leaking prior to the project)
  12. New Bushings for the body mounts. Need to find a solid source for these.
  13. Strap for fuel tank
  14. Bolts for fuel tank cover
  15. Cabin air filter
  16. Front main seal (Crankshaft Front Main Oil Pump Seal) - noticed it is leaking while I was under there
  17. Oil pan seal
  18. Headers (Long Tube Headers)
 
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Finally received the new frame. Working on pricing out how much it would cost to sandblast it. I plan to paint it myself though. If its too much a hassle to get it blasted i'll just hit it with a wire wheel and paint.

With some help from a friend, I got the transmission and transfer case out yesterday. The engine will come out next. 3/4 engine mount bolts have been removed, the front driver side bolt is a pain to get to and pretty rusted out. Need to get a specific tool that will allow enough clearance to put some good pressure on it. The goal is to have the engine out by tonight.

We decided it was best to remove the engine and transmission first before taking the body off the frame because of clearance issues. I don't think I can get the body high enough to clear the engine and transmission with just engine hoists. With them both out, I should only have to lift it a foot or two to roll the chassis out.

I'm getting ready to order a bunch of parts and had a question. Are the Doug Thorley long tube headers + y-pipe worth the investment ? I plan to buy the Yotaworx tune for it as well.

IMG_1016.webp
IMG_1018.webp
IMG_1021.webp
 
Thorley long-tube headers are 100% worth it. I'm not sure if the Y-pipe is, and you'd have zero cats with their Y-pipe (i.e., a stinky rig).
 
Rednexus said:
Thorley long-tube headers are 100% worth it. I'm not sure if the Y-pipe is, and you'd have zero cats with their Y-pipe (i.e., a stinky rig).
Click to expand...
Do the long tube headers bolt up to the factory/OEM cat-back?
 
andyGX470 said:
Do the long tube headers bolt up to the factory/OEM cat-back?
Click to expand...
Yes, they are 100% bolt in from the OEM manifolds. You just lose the front two cats, so you'll need to find a way to trick the O2 sensors to not throw P0420 and P0420 codes (I use 90 degree defaulters and have never thrown a code). If you keep the OEM Y-pipe, you'll keep 2 of the 4 cats. My rig is stinkier than it was stock but not terrible.

Just FYI the long tubes are no bueno if you live in a state with visual or tailpipe sniffer emissions inspections. Here in Missouri no one even looks, but many states are not like that.
 
Rednexus said:
Yes, they are 100% bolt in from the OEM manifolds. You just lose the front two cats, so you'll need to find a way to trick the O2 sensors to not throw P0420 and P0420 codes (I use 90 degree defaulters and have never thrown a code). If you keep the OEM Y-pipe, you'll keep 2 of the 4 cats. My rig is stinkier than it was stock but not terrible.

Just FYI the long tubes are no bueno if you live in a state with visual or tailpipe sniffer emissions inspections. Here in Missouri no one even looks, but many states are not like that.
Click to expand...
Looks like they are out of stock right now. I sent them a message to see when they could have some made. Need to finish this project by July.

Brockettbuilt Headers <- might try these instead. They look pretty well made. Still would prefer the DTs though.

link to website from picture below:
1779629782104.webp


I think i'm after low end torque over high RPM power. Makes more sense for daily driving.

I think you mentioned this in a previous post:
 
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Based on a little research i've decided to go with mastercoat as the paint supplier for the frame. They are currently out of stock but I plan to purchase the kit below or piece it together myself.

nomorerust.com

Mastercoat® AG111™ Complete Deluxe Chassis Kit (AKA Truck Kit)

Introducing our COMPLETE DELUXE chassis paint kit/DELUXE TRUCK KIT! Our standard kit, the Essential Chassis Kit, includes the products you need and enough of it to cover the chassis of an average sized car and provide the ultimate protection from road salt and rust. Our Complete Deluxe Kit/Truck...
nomorerust.com nomorerust.com
 
andyGX470 said:
Looks like they are out of stock right now. I sent them a message to see when they could have some made. Need to finish this project by July.

Brockettbuilt Headers <- might try these instead. They look pretty well made. Still would prefer the DTs though.

link to website from picture below:
View attachment 4145734

I think i'm after low end torque over high RPM power. Makes more sense for daily driving.

I think you mentioned this in a previous post:
Click to expand...
DT headers for the GX470 are discontinued. You'll be lucky to find a pair
 
M3GX said:
DT headers for the GX470 are discontinued. You'll be lucky to find a pair
Click to expand...
Thats a real bummer. I wonder why they discontinued them?
 
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