PM me the address if you can. I'm working today at the fire station on 320 near military.
Green '71 Frame Off Mild Build
- Thread starter srgould41
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
PM sent
, would be good to see you Danno !
- Thread starter
- #144
Just back from the exhaust shop. They did a great job, exactly what I asked. Owner was a bit peeved at having to re-do his work, but I told him it was wrong the first time... Oh well. It looks great now. I'll shoot some pics soon as I can.
So first big shake down run went well. I am happy with the steering. The brakes need to bed in a little better, but work well. Need some rework on a few things, though.
1. Carb isn't working right. Looks like the accelerator pump is not pumping much. I rebuilt the carb, but maybe the passge is clogged or something.
2. My junk yard steering box is leaking from the output shaft. I don't suppose I can buy a seal kit anywhere
Hate to go buy a rebuilt when every has such a hard time getting a 4 1/4 turn box.
3. TV cable still isn't right, stopped shifting into 4th. Trans leaks from shifter shaft. I have a friend of a friend who builds race engines and trannies. He will do the work for me. At the same time I might have him add in the tc lockup solenoid and wiring for the future. No way I am dropping the tranny again so soon. I decided to keep the lockup tc to use later on. I'd love to wire a lockup switch on the dash so I can lock the tc on downhills. After reading up on the solenoid and wiring it seems a sinch.
4. My new AutoMeter fuel gauge appears to be NFG. When I went to program it the gauge was acting funny and not what the manual said it would do. Now it just moves around from empty to full on its own. I'll give AutoMeter a call since it is brand new.
5. Need to program my speedo.
6. Need to set my brake bias valve.
7. Need to install security screws in the dash so I don't lose $600 in gauges. I have not been able to find the right size security bit so I'm going to grind down a screwdriver bit to fit the screws.
8. Birfs may have damaged my Marlin axle seals because a little oil is leaking from each knuckle. I ran a mile in 2wd with the hubs locked so maybe they will seat better. This can wait because they don't leak too bad.
9. Lower radiator hose leaks at the radiator. New hose and new rediator. Tightening doesn't help. I'll have to pull it back apart.
10. Still need to fab a skid plate.
11. Need to mount my CB.
That is about all I can think of for now.
So first big shake down run went well. I am happy with the steering. The brakes need to bed in a little better, but work well. Need some rework on a few things, though.
1. Carb isn't working right. Looks like the accelerator pump is not pumping much. I rebuilt the carb, but maybe the passge is clogged or something.
2. My junk yard steering box is leaking from the output shaft. I don't suppose I can buy a seal kit anywhere
Hate to go buy a rebuilt when every has such a hard time getting a 4 1/4 turn box.3. TV cable still isn't right, stopped shifting into 4th. Trans leaks from shifter shaft. I have a friend of a friend who builds race engines and trannies. He will do the work for me. At the same time I might have him add in the tc lockup solenoid and wiring for the future. No way I am dropping the tranny again so soon. I decided to keep the lockup tc to use later on. I'd love to wire a lockup switch on the dash so I can lock the tc on downhills. After reading up on the solenoid and wiring it seems a sinch.
4. My new AutoMeter fuel gauge appears to be NFG. When I went to program it the gauge was acting funny and not what the manual said it would do. Now it just moves around from empty to full on its own. I'll give AutoMeter a call since it is brand new.
5. Need to program my speedo.
6. Need to set my brake bias valve.
7. Need to install security screws in the dash so I don't lose $600 in gauges. I have not been able to find the right size security bit so I'm going to grind down a screwdriver bit to fit the screws.
8. Birfs may have damaged my Marlin axle seals because a little oil is leaking from each knuckle. I ran a mile in 2wd with the hubs locked so maybe they will seat better. This can wait because they don't leak too bad.
9. Lower radiator hose leaks at the radiator. New hose and new rediator. Tightening doesn't help. I'll have to pull it back apart.
10. Still need to fab a skid plate.
11. Need to mount my CB.
That is about all I can think of for now.
- Thread starter
- #145
I checked the fuel level sender output. 0 ohms. It worked fine before the rebuild, but I guess it died somewhere in between.
I ordered an AutoMeter universal sender from Summit.
I ordered an AutoMeter universal sender from Summit.
- Thread starter
- #146
Turns out my fuel gauge was bad from the factory. They replaced it for free.
- Thread starter
- #147
So after about 150 miles my trans lost 3rd and 4th gears. 
I had not even gotten off road in it yet. I was in the middle of fabbing a skid plate.
So now the drive train comes back out then waits since I don't have the cash to get the trans rebuilt right now. Don't think I'll be wheeling this summer.
On the positive side, as time went on I was feeling less secure with my engine mount welds. I can more easily beef up the welds with the engine out. I also was experiencing low oil pressure so I'll dig into the engine lower end and see whats up with that. I had a leak on the tcase and this gives me an excuse to work on it. Lastly I want to get my rear drive shaft balanced.
So now I get to do all that at once. Now all I need is some money
I had not even gotten off road in it yet. I was in the middle of fabbing a skid plate.So now the drive train comes back out then waits since I don't have the cash to get the trans rebuilt right now. Don't think I'll be wheeling this summer.
On the positive side, as time went on I was feeling less secure with my engine mount welds. I can more easily beef up the welds with the engine out. I also was experiencing low oil pressure so I'll dig into the engine lower end and see whats up with that. I had a leak on the tcase and this gives me an excuse to work on it. Lastly I want to get my rear drive shaft balanced.
So now I get to do all that at once. Now all I need is some money
Sorry to hear about your setback. I have one more thing that I have the money for on my build and then I will have hit a brick wall from a budget standpoint myself.
Steve that sucks! I was just wondering how your build has been coming, wish you didn't have to rebuild it but like you said, gives you a chance to fix some of your other things. Keep the pics coming.
nick
nick
- Thread starter
- #150
Thanks guys. It will work out in the end. Funds are tight with a new roof and other stuff needed first. My wife is mad at me for thinking my Land Cruiser should get fixed 
- Thread starter
- #151
I don't trust my Auto Meter gauges much since I have had one bad already. I bought a chepo mechanical gauge and attached it today. I got nearly 50psi. So my Auto Meter gauge or sender is bad. Yay, no engine tear down!
Got my drive shafts removed and fluids drained. Made a bar to support the back side of the engine when I drop the trans. I might not yank the engine afterall. Next Saturday I will pull the tcase and trans.
Got my drive shafts removed and fluids drained. Made a bar to support the back side of the engine when I drop the trans. I might not yank the engine afterall. Next Saturday I will pull the tcase and trans.
- Thread starter
- #153
Picked up a rebuilt '92 700R4 (4L60). Just need to get a lockup wiring kit for the converter. I'll pull the bad tranny out tomorrow.
Anyone have opinions on wiring kits? I am considering the TCI kit. It's $110 with a new solenoid or $80 without. Compare that to the Painless kit for $150...
Anyone have opinions on wiring kits? I am considering the TCI kit. It's $110 with a new solenoid or $80 without. Compare that to the Painless kit for $150...
I have a 700r4 lockup kit that I bought from Advanced Adapters but since I went w/ TBI I ended up not using it since my ECM controls my lockup function. I'll see if I can find it.
Nick
- Thread starter
- #155
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- #156
So I installed a shift kit and wiring kit in my new tranny today. Then I mated the tcase back to the tranny after installing a nose cone saver and new gaskets (from Georg at Valley Hibrids). The front nose cone was leaking before, so this took care of the leak and beefed up the nose cone. I added a bead to the engine mounts so the welds are beefy now. I put the tranny and tcase back in. In the process I hung up on one of the tcase shifter linkage rods and ended up snapping it. So gots to do a repair. I have about four hours more work before I can fire it up. Looks like next weekend I can drive it
- Thread starter
- #157
It looks like I found out why my last trans died. The TV cable won't allow full travel on the throttle valve on the new trans. So with inadequate fluid pressure the clutches in the old trans were slipping all the time. Not sure if I have a bad cable or what yet. I need to pull the cable out and inspect it.
I am just thankful I left the pan off so I could observe the TV valve travel in relation to throttle travel.
The first pictures shows about how far I am able to move the valve when I pull the cable out as far as it will go. The second pic shows how far it SHOULD travel.
I am just thankful I left the pan off so I could observe the TV valve travel in relation to throttle travel.
The first pictures shows about how far I am able to move the valve when I pull the cable out as far as it will go. The second pic shows how far it SHOULD travel.
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- Thread starter
- #158
My TV cable had a manufacturing flaw that kept the cable from going full travel. The inner cable is swedged to a button that attaches to the TV link in the trans. The swedged area created ears that were twoo wide to allow the button to go all the way up the sleeve. I filed them down and resolved the issue. I contacted TCI and told them about the issue. They found a number of bad cables on the shelf. At least I may have saved others from failed trannies.
Drove around the block and it ran GREAT. I bought a pressure gauge and will test the tranny before I drive it again though. I'm a bit gun shy now.
Drove around the block and it ran GREAT. I bought a pressure gauge and will test the tranny before I drive it again though. I'm a bit gun shy now.
nice!!! looks like it only took you a little over a year to do it all.... not to shabby! still have some questions on the tranny setup.
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- #160
Thanks... It took me 14 months before I could drive it again, but it will be about 20 months before it will be ready for off road again. I figure another month or two before I can wheel it again.