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GM expertise needed - 6.2 Vortec / 6L80e Swap - in a FJ55

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by logic2, Feb 18, 2017.

  1. logic2

    logic2

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    I have a 1972 FJ55 - Bone Stock.

    I was originally planning to swap in a 5.3 Vortec / 4L60e / with my stock Toyota Transfer case.
    ---> Plans may have changed <---

    I just came across a 2009 Denali 4x4 Rollover and the owner sold me the low mileage drivetrain for under $1000.

    6.2L (L92 I think... either L92 or L94)
    6L80e 6-Speed with Transfer Case
    ECM (module with harness / etc)

    I've done a couple of 5.3 swaps in FJ40's before but used the SM465 tranny and stock txfer case.
    This one will be different (if it works).


    Concern #1:

    I had a friend of mine tell me that he thought the 6L80e & Stock Transfer Case from a 4x4 Denali has a driver's side output and will not clock / move to the passenger side - that it will not work on my Toyota.

    Concern #2:
    I was also told that this Denali most likely (might have) all-wheel drive (full time 4x4).

    Questions for those that might know:

    1.) Will the stock Denali transfer case work on my application and can it be adapted for a passenger side drop ?

    2.) If not, what transfer case would be my best option ? I see that AA claims to make an adapter for a 6L80e to my stock 10-spline case...but would that be my best option ?

    3.) Are these drivetrains all wheel drive (full time 4x4) and can they modified for manual engagement ?

    4.) Anything else I might be missing about this 2009 6.2 Engine / 6L80e tranny swap ?
    Anyone ever do one and how do you like em ?
    Anything special I need to look out for ?

    Thanks in advance !

    Mike
     
  2. White Stripe

    White Stripe

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    Yes I'm pretty sure it's awd. I would run a toy split case tcase.
     
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  3. logic2

    logic2

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    Good info
    Do you think/know if the split tcase would work on that AWD tranny ?

    Even though it's awd, think I could use the tcase as the disengagement point ?

    Trying to figure out if I need a 2wd tranny or if this 4x4 tranny will work.

    I like the idea of a toyota tcase

    Thx
     
  4. Lil'John

    Lil'John SILVER Star

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    Tranny doesn't make a difference for AWD vs normal tcase. IT is all the tcase. You might have to adjust the PCM tune to not look for any AWD signals. No big deal.

    I would only run a split case if I was trying to keep offset axles... I wouldn't trust an older one piece case behind any sort of power and I wouldn't buy a non-HD version of an Atlas. Other option I would consider is FJ80 tcase.

    Unless you put the engine in the dirt, you will have a large hole in your floor. My NV4500 behind gen 3 vortec(6.0) required a bit of a hole. My 4l80 behind gen 3 vortec(turbo 5.3) will require a nice sized hole... I'm still waiting for the install:eek: Turbo 5.3 will be running a Blackbox doubler so infinite clocking on the transfer case. You might see if one can be used behind a 6l80... "only" $1200 more than the AA adapter ;)
     
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  5. logic2

    logic2

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    Thanks for the feedback.

    To your point, I am trying to keep my stock FJ55 offset axles, so that means either a split case or an FZJ80 case.

    Not sure I want the stock Transfer Case from the Denali even if I get it clocked right, because I do not think my axles would hold up to AWD at highway speeds for very long. I'd rather have the option to engage when I need it.

    About the 6L80e:
    Cutting a bigger hole in the floor should not be a problem, as the Pig has plenty of room.


    I'll be trying to (locate) a Toyota t-case this week.

    Thanks Again-
     
  6. Lil'John

    Lil'John SILVER Star

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    I don't see mentioned what you are intending to use rig for or final tire size.

    For what it is worth, there is a reason I've got offset Dana 60s under both my pigs ;)
     
  7. logic2

    logic2

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    fj55.jpg
    Sure,

    Intended use is about 90% street, pasture, creeks, etc... and 10% (or less) crawling and rough terrain.
    Nothing serious.

    My current tire size is 33x10.50x15
    Final tire size will probably either stay the same or (max out) at 34" - 35".

    Here's a current pic.

    My goal is to have a drivetrain that can sustain 65-70MPH without stressing out the running gear.

    The current (Toyota FJ55 stock) axle assemblies & diff appear to be fine in my opinion.

    If they will work with my 2009 6.2L & 6L80e, then I prefer to stay with that.
    I've located a txfer case from a 91 (local) and will probably go with that. I believe AA makes the 6l80e adapter for this transfer case to a 6l80e.

    Other things I'll be looking out for are:

    Engine placement (oil pan - engine height -> hitting hood - frame rails hitting exhaust or steering shaft) Tranny mount - front driveshaft hitting oil pan, etc... But other have done this, so I'm not worried that it can't be done, just don't want to waste a lot of time & money reinventing the wheel.

    I appreciate your info and advice !

    Thanks
     
  8. Lil'John

    Lil'John SILVER Star

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    For the intake, you can leave off the cover and use the truck intake. It fits nice under the early FJ55 no-hump hood. That is how I'm running my 55.

    For the oil pan, there is really only two choices:
    1. If you can fit the truck pan, run it. Extra oil is always nice. It will work if your have a "large" lift. I was able to run it with a spring over on my 6.0L.
    2. Buy a NEW H3 pan at ~$200. Here is amazon link: Amazon.com: GM Performance Parts 19212593 Oil Pan: Automotive Do not waste any time/money considering any of the F-body pans(LS1,6,etc) People are asking $200+ for used pan. It is even offset on the passenger side like it was made for land cruisers.
    For exhaust, I modified a set of LS6 center dump exhaust manifolds. The exit had to get cut and rewelded to pull the exit inward toward the block.

    I had a set of Hooker center dump headers. Garbage and leaked all the time. I got rid of them as quick as I could.

    Any type of power on the ground would make me scared of the stock LC axles. Version 1 of my 6.0L was doing 31" tires with ARBs and praying I could drive sane. You could spend a small fortune on Toyota axles to get them maybe to stock 1 ton axle strength. FWIW, I did the following on both of my Cruisers with 35"+ tires:
    1. $500 for a 99 Ford E350 van dana 60 rear axle: rear disc and ebrake factory. $200 to cut 7" off the passenger side to make it cruiser offset and 60" WMS(55" is stock FJ55). $400 for new 35 spline axle shafts. I'm sure you could get the stock 32 spline that come stock for the van. I spent ~$1k for ARB rear axle 35 spline. The axle is called a Dana 60U and has a smooth bottom to it.
    2. $200 for 86 Dodge D60 front housing: has shorter passenger side than Chevy by ~1" and is 2" narrower than Chevy overall. $200 to cut 7" off driver side to make it cruiser offset and 60" WMS. $600 for 35 spline inner/outer axle shafts. $1k ARB for 35 spline inner.
    3. $2300 for a "Welder Bill" custom Ford D60 front housing/knuckle... this included custom passenger side offset. It is a custom welded knuckle setup that is super strong with only two reports of failure. The one failure I talked with the owner and it was the result of a KOH rock racing style accident involving a high speed roll/landing. Everything else set up similar to Dodge.
    I am running the stock heavy/heavy duty brakes with a 1 ton master cylinder. I am also running 8x6.5" rims of the 17" variety so no clearance issues. It stops awesome :p

    FWIW, I'm ultra conservative on my equipment and don't want to be "THAT" guy who always breaks on the trail ;) I believe in buy once, cry once.

    Here is my 71 green 55 sprung over with 35" tires. Without the roof rack, it is under 7' and fits in a garage :)
    [​IMG]

    My brown 72 with be getting close to 40"+ tires with same amount of lift or less. Currently waiting the turbo 5.3 install ;)
     
  9. DOM335

    DOM335

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    Great thread, and nice trucks you both have. I have a situation you may shed light on for me? I have the LS3 6l80e setup in my 70'series. When it was built Torfab used a 80 series transfer case and left it in all time AWD.(not sure whom designed the drivetrain, so I'm not pointing fingers or mad, it's the nature of the beast when you build and modify ). I'm not a fan of the drag I feel with it in all time AWD. It also makes some vibration and noise at freeway speeds too. Tor told me when I went to buy the truck that he had removed the font driveline while on his way back from MOAB . He said he was so swamped he had not had a chance to properly diagnose the vibration it had before I bought the truck. He said it was most likely the u joints....so I had the front drive line rebuilt and balanced and it did not fix the problem.

    I used to have a 80 series also and it would on occasion make the same sounds when letting off the throttle, but not constant or as loud.(kinda of a swooshing noise ). I called Tor and He said to bring it in and he will swap out the case with another one and add the kit that allows for it to be selectable from 2wd to 4wd. I just haven't done it yet because I'm not sure if I should just go with a atlas or Orion TC. I don't have much faith in the Toyota t case with that much power behind it. I also don't know what the cost differences will be if the adtermarket cases are different in size so I would have to have new shafts made?

    Even being in all time AWD , the rear end breaks loose when I romp on it the dry. , So I'm not sure how much help all time awd is actually doing ? It sure would be nice to be able to select on the fly from 2 to 4 hi when it starts to rain...and it rains a lot where we live.

    I'm also considering upgrading the axles, gearing and suspension eventually. I like it as it is for daily driving , but I could see myself breaking something easily while off-roading it if the conditions are just right. With that much HP and torque , something's gonna give .... The original owner that was having it built was thinking he was going to run a 5.3 crate motor but found out they are no longer available from GM. That left them with no option but the LS3 erod. Im pretty sure that's a fairly large difference in hp and torque.

    I did see and read the write up about the Nitro Gear BJ73 , but that truck was basically stock on the HP side. Curious what you guys might recommend if you were me and wanted a very trail capable rig...or if what I'm running is more than I need already?

    If anyone else can add some input that would be great....thanks.
     
  10. Downey

    Downey

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    Logic2, here's my 2 cents:
    1. I'd take a look at the Sanderson "Ultra" block hugger headers (key word here is "Ultra").
    2. I think you will be happy with an In-Tank fuel pump. Look at ebay #252496604117, but note the following:
    * The vertical strap is trimmable for depth of your tank.
    * Your pump must have a smaller filter to fit inside the bottom cup.
    * Return fuel line should be mounted inside the bottom cup to keep more gas at the pick-up.
    * Depth of the tank you are using must allow for height of vertically mounted pump and top hose barb fitting.
     

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