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GM expertise needed - 6.2 Vortec / 6L80e Swap - in a FJ55

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by logic2, Feb 18, 2017.

  1. logic2

    logic2

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    I have a 1972 FJ55 - Bone Stock.

    I was originally planning to swap in a 5.3 Vortec / 4L60e / with my stock Toyota Transfer case.
    ---> Plans may have changed <---

    I just came across a 2009 Denali 4x4 Rollover and the owner sold me the low mileage drivetrain for under $1000.

    6.2L (L92 I think... either L92 or L94)
    6L80e 6-Speed with Transfer Case
    ECM (module with harness / etc)

    I've done a couple of 5.3 swaps in FJ40's before but used the SM465 tranny and stock txfer case.
    This one will be different (if it works).


    Concern #1:

    I had a friend of mine tell me that he thought the 6L80e & Stock Transfer Case from a 4x4 Denali has a driver's side output and will not clock / move to the passenger side - that it will not work on my Toyota.

    Concern #2:
    I was also told that this Denali most likely (might have) all-wheel drive (full time 4x4).

    Questions for those that might know:

    1.) Will the stock Denali transfer case work on my application and can it be adapted for a passenger side drop ?

    2.) If not, what transfer case would be my best option ? I see that AA claims to make an adapter for a 6L80e to my stock 10-spline case...but would that be my best option ?

    3.) Are these drivetrains all wheel drive (full time 4x4) and can they modified for manual engagement ?

    4.) Anything else I might be missing about this 2009 6.2 Engine / 6L80e tranny swap ?
    Anyone ever do one and how do you like em ?
    Anything special I need to look out for ?

    Thanks in advance !

    Mike
     
  2. White Stripe

    White Stripe

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    Yes I'm pretty sure it's awd. I would run a toy split case tcase.
     
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  3. logic2

    logic2

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    Good info
    Do you think/know if the split tcase would work on that AWD tranny ?

    Even though it's awd, think I could use the tcase as the disengagement point ?

    Trying to figure out if I need a 2wd tranny or if this 4x4 tranny will work.

    I like the idea of a toyota tcase

    Thx
     
  4. Lil'John

    Lil'John SILVER Star

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    Tranny doesn't make a difference for AWD vs normal tcase. IT is all the tcase. You might have to adjust the PCM tune to not look for any AWD signals. No big deal.

    I would only run a split case if I was trying to keep offset axles... I wouldn't trust an older one piece case behind any sort of power and I wouldn't buy a non-HD version of an Atlas. Other option I would consider is FJ80 tcase.

    Unless you put the engine in the dirt, you will have a large hole in your floor. My NV4500 behind gen 3 vortec(6.0) required a bit of a hole. My 4l80 behind gen 3 vortec(turbo 5.3) will require a nice sized hole... I'm still waiting for the install:eek: Turbo 5.3 will be running a Blackbox doubler so infinite clocking on the transfer case. You might see if one can be used behind a 6l80... "only" $1200 more than the AA adapter ;)
     
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  5. logic2

    logic2

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    Thanks for the feedback.

    To your point, I am trying to keep my stock FJ55 offset axles, so that means either a split case or an FZJ80 case.

    Not sure I want the stock Transfer Case from the Denali even if I get it clocked right, because I do not think my axles would hold up to AWD at highway speeds for very long. I'd rather have the option to engage when I need it.

    About the 6L80e:
    Cutting a bigger hole in the floor should not be a problem, as the Pig has plenty of room.


    I'll be trying to (locate) a Toyota t-case this week.

    Thanks Again-
     
  6. Lil'John

    Lil'John SILVER Star

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    I don't see mentioned what you are intending to use rig for or final tire size.

    For what it is worth, there is a reason I've got offset Dana 60s under both my pigs ;)
     
  7. logic2

    logic2

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    fj55.jpg
    Sure,

    Intended use is about 90% street, pasture, creeks, etc... and 10% (or less) crawling and rough terrain.
    Nothing serious.

    My current tire size is 33x10.50x15
    Final tire size will probably either stay the same or (max out) at 34" - 35".

    Here's a current pic.

    My goal is to have a drivetrain that can sustain 65-70MPH without stressing out the running gear.

    The current (Toyota FJ55 stock) axle assemblies & diff appear to be fine in my opinion.

    If they will work with my 2009 6.2L & 6L80e, then I prefer to stay with that.
    I've located a txfer case from a 91 (local) and will probably go with that. I believe AA makes the 6l80e adapter for this transfer case to a 6l80e.

    Other things I'll be looking out for are:

    Engine placement (oil pan - engine height -> hitting hood - frame rails hitting exhaust or steering shaft) Tranny mount - front driveshaft hitting oil pan, etc... But other have done this, so I'm not worried that it can't be done, just don't want to waste a lot of time & money reinventing the wheel.

    I appreciate your info and advice !

    Thanks
     
  8. Lil'John

    Lil'John SILVER Star

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    For the intake, you can leave off the cover and use the truck intake. It fits nice under the early FJ55 no-hump hood. That is how I'm running my 55.

    For the oil pan, there is really only two choices:
    1. If you can fit the truck pan, run it. Extra oil is always nice. It will work if your have a "large" lift. I was able to run it with a spring over on my 6.0L.
    2. Buy a NEW H3 pan at ~$200. Here is amazon link: Amazon.com: GM Performance Parts 19212593 Oil Pan: Automotive Do not waste any time/money considering any of the F-body pans(LS1,6,etc) People are asking $200+ for used pan. It is even offset on the passenger side like it was made for land cruisers.
    For exhaust, I modified a set of LS6 center dump exhaust manifolds. The exit had to get cut and rewelded to pull the exit inward toward the block.

    I had a set of Hooker center dump headers. Garbage and leaked all the time. I got rid of them as quick as I could.

    Any type of power on the ground would make me scared of the stock LC axles. Version 1 of my 6.0L was doing 31" tires with ARBs and praying I could drive sane. You could spend a small fortune on Toyota axles to get them maybe to stock 1 ton axle strength. FWIW, I did the following on both of my Cruisers with 35"+ tires:
    1. $500 for a 99 Ford E350 van dana 60 rear axle: rear disc and ebrake factory. $200 to cut 7" off the passenger side to make it cruiser offset and 60" WMS(55" is stock FJ55). $400 for new 35 spline axle shafts. I'm sure you could get the stock 32 spline that come stock for the van. I spent ~$1k for ARB rear axle 35 spline. The axle is called a Dana 60U and has a smooth bottom to it.
    2. $200 for 86 Dodge D60 front housing: has shorter passenger side than Chevy by ~1" and is 2" narrower than Chevy overall. $200 to cut 7" off driver side to make it cruiser offset and 60" WMS. $600 for 35 spline inner/outer axle shafts. $1k ARB for 35 spline inner.
    3. $2300 for a "Welder Bill" custom Ford D60 front housing/knuckle... this included custom passenger side offset. It is a custom welded knuckle setup that is super strong with only two reports of failure. The one failure I talked with the owner and it was the result of a KOH rock racing style accident involving a high speed roll/landing. Everything else set up similar to Dodge.
    I am running the stock heavy/heavy duty brakes with a 1 ton master cylinder. I am also running 8x6.5" rims of the 17" variety so no clearance issues. It stops awesome :p

    FWIW, I'm ultra conservative on my equipment and don't want to be "THAT" guy who always breaks on the trail ;) I believe in buy once, cry once.

    Here is my 71 green 55 sprung over with 35" tires. Without the roof rack, it is under 7' and fits in a garage :)
    [​IMG]

    My brown 72 with be getting close to 40"+ tires with same amount of lift or less. Currently waiting the turbo 5.3 install ;)
     
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