Trying to replace this seal and it looks like I need a gear puller of sorts to get this off?
Ive "rented" the largest gear puller available and it still doesnot have enough stroke. How do I change get this seall? If a gear puller, any one that is recommended?
I'm not really sure what you have going on there so I can't say for sure but looks to me like no way you'll get any kind of jaw puller in there but I wouldn't think you'd need to for a splined gear on a shaft that isn't tapered. A couple heel bars maybe? Either that or you're pulling it apart wrong IMO.
I'm all ears to hear how this bad boy needs to come out. That retaining "nut" sits against the inner bearing race, but I can't figure out how to pull. I can try prying out, but since I just broke an aluminum transmission case, I'm a little gun shy....
Hmm Toyota uses a really long puller for that gear there and then taps the shaft out from the back with a soft faced hammer. Not sure what other people are doing. You'd about have to modify a puller but not a jaw puller, you need a bar puller with some long hooks.
I used a press, it doesnt take a lot of time, i think we had it off and back on in like 5 minutes
it also could more than likely be done with a a smaller press as well,
I used a press, it doesnt take a lot of time, i think we had it off and back on in like 5 minutes
it also could more than likely be done with a a smaller press as well,
The biggest one will work but you will have to grind down the sides some on two of the legs to get it to slip all the way down into the cone. That gear is on there real tight. Once the gear is off and the shaft is out, go throw the shaft in your freezer so it will shrink down some. It will make banging that gear back on a lot easier. Lastly, be sure to put a 2x4 under the shaft so the studs don't get smushed when getting banged on. ( What??) hehehehe. You can also run the nuts onto the shaft studs so that you can "correct" any smushed threads when you take them off again after banging the gear back on. Or buy a die to clean them up when you finish.
I've got a 20 ton press, that's not a problem. Obviously, you're not getting a splitter in there. Should I weld up some angle iron to sit in there or what do you use?
i went to a local transmission shop that had a long puller that had the reach to grab the gear
they were nice enough to get it off for free as it is obviously very esry with the right puller
or, custom fab a set of puller arms for your puller
Crap, I did this exact project few years back and for the life of me, can't recall how I yanked that bearing out. I wonder if I did stick that whole thing in the press and pushed the shaft through. IIRC, it didn't put up much of a resistance.
after looking at long arm pullers and their cost, I think I am going to cut some 1" pieces of angle iron, weld to some flat, add bolt holes to keep the angle iron "jaws" from slipping outwards and press against that. I have it all around, so it will only take a few minutes to cut and weld it. I already had to make a "frame" to press the drive gear off....
I know everyone says you should do the seals WYIT, but this "crawler" gear job has been a hellish 4.5 weeks so far....my 4th pair of "snap ring" pliers arrive soon....
Ive done the front and rear seals on the tcase. I wish I could remember how I did it but I don't have a press. I can tell you this, I spent 2 hours on one snap ring. Drove to sears, bought another one and in 2 minutes it was out. The tcase is one of those places where the right tool actually makes all the difference
I found some long pullers to pull it off, IIRC I used a heat gun to heat the gear up and it dropped right on the shaft! In the future I can't see why the heat gun wouldn't help it off?
The 8 inch puller is what I used. You get 4 different sizes for $32.
OK it's messed up. I copy and paste the address, and for some reason it goes to amazon. Go to Harbor freight web site. You want the item#69104. Three-Jaw Puller Set 4 Pc
ok, Now the link seems to work, but my letters are huge.
I've got a 20 ton press, that's not a problem. Obviously, you're not getting a splitter in there. Should I weld up some angle iron to sit in there or what do you use?
I pressed against the housing, my press didnt even get loaded up at all, you press down on the shaft and flange and it litterally slides out, I dont see this as an issue up to say 5 tons. I've done this now to 3 seperate cases, the only thing I've broke was a alluminum tab because I had a brain fart
I pressed against the housing, my press didnt even get loaded up at all, you press down on the shaft and flange and it litterally slides out, I dont see this as an issue up to say 5 tons. I've done this now to 3 seperate cases, the only thing I've broke was a alluminum tab because I had a brain fart
Front output bearing 6208Z
rear output shaft bearing 50BC08 50mm-80mm-16mm
Your Toyota # for the rear bearing is the same I have. Can't help you on the front Toyota #. NAPA and o'riely's can get the other two if you give them their industrial bearing #s above. The rear bearing # is Nachi and will cross over to another #. The measurements I gave are the ones you need to ensure the right numbers cross over. The front bearing is pretty common and uses the exact same #.
