I would buy the flat version for 2016+ LC if you make it!
Gamiviti 200 series products & solutions (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter nakman
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It's all possible, but seems like that would be really tall? the current version I have sits up about 2", and it's just about on plane with the RF hood. So any higher and it starts to block vision. What about putting a carplay screen on a Ram mount?
greynolds
SILVER Star
Very interested in one of these replacement speaker grill options. I’m not sure I need all the cutouts in front, but would like a spot to mount the microphone and GPS unit (which has a magnet, so it presumably won’t stick to stainless - or is this plastic and stainless color?) from my EC Off-road unit. It probably makes sense to have the cutouts configurable so people can go with what they need and not have unused openings to look at. Do you have any idea on pricing for these yet?
The 80/20 cross bars are a good option for many people, however those open channels will whistle like crazy at highway speeds, and will collect dirt. 80/20 sells a snap-in filler piece for their extrusions - I suggest including those with the crossbars, or at least having them as an option. Closing the extrusions will make a huge difference in noise.
Perhaps also offer a wind deflector for the frontmost cross bar; it should be easy to mount to the cross bar itself.
The speaker replacement panel is a great idea - I'd love one for my '14 LX, but rather than the cutout options already mentioned, I'd prefer cutouts for the 'small', rectangular Toyota switches that the LX comes with (Toyota Small Push Series Archives - CH4X4 Industries - https://www.ch4x4.com/product-category/toyota-small-push-switches/). Or better yet, have the front of the unit completely open, and sell bolt-on plates that cover the hole and havev whatever type of cutouts the user wants.
Perhaps also offer a wind deflector for the frontmost cross bar; it should be easy to mount to the cross bar itself.
The speaker replacement panel is a great idea - I'd love one for my '14 LX, but rather than the cutout options already mentioned, I'd prefer cutouts for the 'small', rectangular Toyota switches that the LX comes with (Toyota Small Push Series Archives - CH4X4 Industries - https://www.ch4x4.com/product-category/toyota-small-push-switches/). Or better yet, have the front of the unit completely open, and sell bolt-on plates that cover the hole and havev whatever type of cutouts the user wants.
greynolds
SILVER Star
I like the idea of bolt on plates that can be completely customized and replaced if needs change.
I like the idea of the grill replacement mount. I'd be more inclined to have one that's flush and provides t-slot rails for Ram mounts instead of pre-drilled holes. I also don't care for all of the cut outs on the front and without them you possibly wouldn't have to make it as tall?!
If you get one for the 13lc I’d be interested in trying it out. Let me know details if that’s an option.But the thing I'm most excited about today is a new one I swear you haven't seen before... hope you're sitting down. ok j/k. It's a replacement speaker screen for your upper dashboard insert on the 2016+ Land Cruisers... no cutting, welding, you just pop off the panel, remove the screen, then add this new sheet metal bezel in its place. Some pics:
View attachment 2845765
View attachment 2845766
View attachment 2845767
I made 3 different versions of the front plastic part, the one shown is with 5 round holes for 12v outlets, etc. #2 has 2 round and 4 rectangular openings, and #3 has 2 round and a big rectangular opening in the middle that will fit a Switchpro. You can also run 5 holes without the plastic in front, as the steel also has that 5-hole pattern (which you'd trim to run a different one).
On my rig, I put that Garmin there just for looks, that'll most likely move to the right side, and on the left will be my Ham Radio faceplate. I'm just waiting on a few more Ram parts for that one. The USB/volt meter on the left is from the primary battery, the one on the right is the 2nd battery, the 12v sockets are split also. And that center switch kills them all.
The top of the part also has a ton of holes for bolting up additional Ram mounts, also a couple bigger holes for grommets & cables, holes for the speaker, and another hole for the headlight light sensor. I'm pretty good and putting holes through sheet metal in CAD.But hey pics are always fun, so here's what that looks like on the screen:
View attachment 2845774
So I'm curious if there's much interest in these? Or if anyone wants to try one out? Or if there are any other objects you wish you could stick onto the top of your dash, which would be appropriate here. Thank you all for your continued support, and I appreciate all the comments. -tim
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These would be in stainless... I've got a protoype of a flat version in the works now so will post up pics once I have that installed. Not sure on pricing yet, but target is to stay around $100 or so..
Great comments on the channels and wind noise, do you mainly close the one in front? I presume so, but just curious.. I actually have fairing bracket in development now, prototypes are running along side the speaker grill thing in fact, so the intent was to offer a fairing solution also.
And yes, the idea with the plastic plates in front was so that different hole and cut-out patterns could be made without having to redo the entire steel piece. That way you'd have the option of switching things up over time. I want to get the flat version here launched first though, as I think that has more universal appeal and after a weekend with the raised gauges I'm a little less pumped on the design.
greynolds
SILVER Star
That pricing seems very reasonable to me. Any idea if a GPS antenna from something like the EC Offroad unit would be able to get a strong enough signal mounted under this? Given that it’s stainless, the magnet attachment wouldn’t work, but double sided tape certainly would.
Also, any idea how frequently one could pop this cover off and back on without weakening the mounts? I’m thinking this could be a good place to hide the USB connectors from the EC Offroad unit, but it would be nice to be able to pop the cover once in a while to do things like swap out USB thumb drives.
Depending on how flat the flat version is, please consider a replaceable plastic front panel like you’re planning for the other insert for the ability to mount small items through the front. I’m thinking of things like the EC Offroad microphone, which I’m guessing would need a ~3/8” hole to stick through.
All of them, really. IMO the horizontally-oriented ones would likely be the biggest contributors to noise.
Are there major differences on the pre-2016 LCs dash tops?
Add me to the 2013 LC interested list as well.
@nakman the replacement panel for the speaker grill is a genius idea. From reading your post, it sounds like this uses the same retention clips as the actual grill. Is that correct? How sturdy is this? Will it handle the bumps and drops on trail? I have been looking for a way to mount up two RJ45 mic jacks and have a place to store the actual mics using a steelie magnet mount. The plastic panel you have, will it accept standard Toyota 200 series vertical switches? I've seen RJ45 plugs in a standard Toyota switch faceplate. Maybe even adding blanks for lights so we don't need to use a SwitchPro. That'd be awesome.
Also, putting a RAM ball on the left side would mean that we could still use the RAM mount on the driver's handle and use enough medium/long arms to reach this panel and have a second secure mounting point. That would be a very rigid RAM arm system! I was planning on mounting two radio heads on a RAM arm system off the driver's handle. If I could route the RJ45 for the mics and the heads out the left side of this new (what is the actual name you've got for it?) bezel would really make my life easier.
You mentioned not being "pumped" for the raised design. Can you go into detail on that? I'm pretty tall, so I doubt I'd have a problem seeing over the raised panel. Is it an issue of light from the battery monitors at night? Thanks!
Also, putting a RAM ball on the left side would mean that we could still use the RAM mount on the driver's handle and use enough medium/long arms to reach this panel and have a second secure mounting point. That would be a very rigid RAM arm system! I was planning on mounting two radio heads on a RAM arm system off the driver's handle. If I could route the RJ45 for the mics and the heads out the left side of this new (what is the actual name you've got for it?) bezel would really make my life easier.
You mentioned not being "pumped" for the raised design. Can you go into detail on that? I'm pretty tall, so I doubt I'd have a problem seeing over the raised panel. Is it an issue of light from the battery monitors at night? Thanks!
That's cool. I'm assuming they'd fit in standard cigarette lighter holes? I had read that the rectangular Toyota RJ45 adapters were of poor quality.
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Jim yes same clips, actually the same part- you're only swapping the grill portion for the new stainless steel version(s). It's pretty sturdy- has been holding my Garmin just fine for a while now, and it's still tough to make it pop free with the pry tools. You should sit in mine sometime, it's just a touch tall for me (5' 10") and I tend to run the seat pretty low, also the gauges are a little distracting. I need to get some 200 switches to design that opening, should be easy to do, the RJ45 is a good solution. I ran mine out the top of the panel, as I put 2 7/16" holes there which accept a grommet- so not quite as elegant, but does the same thing with just the remote cable.
Is there a good link for switches?
Is there a good link for switches?
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Yup. You may have read my post about the poor quality Toyota switch size one I bought on ebay. It works fine, but is poorly constructed.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Air on Board sells a line of switches that fit the 200 series.
AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Toyota Push Switches - Switches - Products - https://www.aironboard.com/online/products/switches/toyota-push-switches.html?toyota_model=406
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- #38
awesome thanks.
what about a USB port or 12v gauge, is there one that same switch size? that's why I did the round holes initially, as that stuff is everywhere.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I got a toyota sized dual battery gauge from Australia, maybe SolidKit? Looks like Mule carries them now: SolidKit Dual Battery Volt Meter (5th Gen 4Runner, LC200, Etc) - https://dasmule.com/products/solidkit-dual-battery-volt-meter-5th-gen-4runner-lc200-etc
Also available in blue numerals...
Dual DC Voltmeter Battery Switch Toyota 200 Series Prado 150 Series Hilux
Dual DC Voltmeter Battery Switch Toyota 200 Series Prado 150 Series Hilux - HULK 4x4
www.the4wdshed.com
Here is a dual usb plug: USB Dual Port to suit 200 Series - https://www.ecvisionsound.com/collections/in-car-accessories/products/200-series-usb-dual-port
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Tim,
AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Toyota Push Switches - Switches - Products
Air On Board is a professional designer of vehicle air systems, switches, recovery gears, panels, tanks, diff breather kits and many other more accessories specializing to the 4WD and trade markets for over one decade
www.aironboard.com
I'm using one of these for my compressor. But they've got tons available. I actually got mine from Slee who has them in stock.
I'm definitely interested in this. I have also seen metallic RJ45 ports with a cover. I'll try and find a link. But my use case would be:
1. RAM mount ball on left and right side.
2. RAM mount hole pattern on top
3. Toyota rectangular switches in front
4. 2 holes for the RJ45 metallic jacks w/cover
But yeah, I'd want to see the mount before buying.
