- Thread starter
- #101
Thanks, it was fun learning how to do this. I should probably finish it
Build Fujiwara's 3 linked super daily
- Thread starter Squeegee
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- Thread starter
- #103
I ran the car all summer and I’m finally getting to the odds and ends…. And I’m planning on how to link the rear too
You'll love it! I did the rear first and 'finished' the front last year. Been digging the better handling, adjustability and predictability quick a bit. Coilovers are my next step(which I should have done at the same time I did the front)
- Thread starter
- #105
I’m looking forward to it! I kinda wish I did the rear first. The roll steer is so bad
.I need to see your 80. Why don’t you have a build thread?
Haha! I'm really good at starting ideas, and not doing anything afterwards. I'll try to dig up some picturesI’m looking forward to it! I kinda wish I did the rear first. The roll steer is so bad
I need to see your 80. Why don’t you have a build thread?
- Thread starter
- #107
Please and thank you
Here are a couple pictures. Nothing exciting, need to re-work the steering/clearance frame for more up-travel and get some coilovers on this thing soon.
- Thread starter
- #109
Things dope!
- Thread starter
- #110
I ended up just moving the bump can back about 1/2". Problem fixed I guess. The bump took an absolute beating and seemed to puke a little oil. I just put it back in the can and spent the summer hitting volleyball sized rocks at 20mph. Im pleasantly surprised by the robustness of free parts. I bent a rear wheel though
- Thread starter
- #111
The friend group didn't camp alot this year. Most of us had partially broken cars. It was nice to get out when we could though! I we did our usual rounds in Montana. Once of the trails was extra soupy and all of us filled our cars with cow poop waters. I was climbing out of the soup and I had water flowing into the car through the tail light.
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- #112
MORE
- Thread starter
- #113
I didn't really touch the car for the entirety of the fall semester. It gave me some time to think about all of the stuff I did to the 80. I realized that the rear geometry is horrible and that dobinsons yellow shocks were trying to control the chassis and were completely getting overworked. All of this was now noticeable because radius arms REALLY tame these things down. The 80 was always a little fooey louie because I ran through radius arm bushings, but even when they're blown out, they still control the chassis better than a 3 link. I always knew that the 3 link should be paired with a sway bar but a part of me was really scared that I screwed the geometry up. I heemed and hawed until early January and finally started working on this thing again.
So was the 3 link worth it even though it had problems? Maybe, the front end performed better than I ever thought it would offorad. I had moments where I would brace myself because I was careening towards rough stuff at like 30mph the car just floated over it. I hadn't experienced something that ate up mini whoops and large rocks like this before and it's a weird feeling. Despite the car not having a front sway bar, it felt just as stable as it did with the radius arms and the added flex was a nice addition.
On the other hand, the bump steer was annoying aaaaaaaaall summer. It would chatter the wheel over baby head sized bumps and sent alot of feedback into the wheel on the road. You could feel the slop in the box chatter back and forth, real creepy feeeling.
So was the 3 link worth it even though it had problems? Maybe, the front end performed better than I ever thought it would offorad. I had moments where I would brace myself because I was careening towards rough stuff at like 30mph the car just floated over it. I hadn't experienced something that ate up mini whoops and large rocks like this before and it's a weird feeling. Despite the car not having a front sway bar, it felt just as stable as it did with the radius arms and the added flex was a nice addition.
On the other hand, the bump steer was annoying aaaaaaaaall summer. It would chatter the wheel over baby head sized bumps and sent alot of feedback into the wheel on the road. You could feel the slop in the box chatter back and forth, real creepy feeeling.
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- Thread starter
- #114
BUT BEFORE ALL OF THAT IT'S TIME FOR BEST OF THE WEST
I had the weekend off so I chose to ignore school and meet my friends out in Sand Hollow. The night before me and a friend changed the clutch/ fly wheel in a 1st gen 4runner so he could bring it down (we screwed up). I was in St George for roughly 24 hours and during that time I saw 3 cars get totalled on 2 trails, we took the transmission out and fixed the stuff we messed up on a trailer in the desert, and I broke by friends dads jeep at 10:30 at night on double sammy by wedging the drivers front tire in a massive hole.
It was the most fun I had all year.
I had the weekend off so I chose to ignore school and meet my friends out in Sand Hollow. The night before me and a friend changed the clutch/ fly wheel in a 1st gen 4runner so he could bring it down (we screwed up). I was in St George for roughly 24 hours and during that time I saw 3 cars get totalled on 2 trails, we took the transmission out and fixed the stuff we messed up on a trailer in the desert, and I broke by friends dads jeep at 10:30 at night on double sammy by wedging the drivers front tire in a massive hole.
It was the most fun I had all year.
- Thread starter
- #115
First order of business for fixing the drivablility was getting shocks.... because I got a good deal
Soooo I got a set of rear 6" lift Dobinsons MRAs, put them on, and didn't take a single picture. I messed with the low speed compression/ rebound settings and found that it really calmed down the drivability quarks/ general boatines. Cool. Thank makes me think the geometry in the front is fine and I just have a lot of sprung weight that needs controlled.
Side note: the clickers on the MRAs are bigger but also sharper than the foxes and the detent click is nicer. Overall I really like these. I wish the end user serviceablility was nicer. I wish I could get replacement parts other than seals from dobinsons and I'm scared to know how much it'll be to replace a shaft if i ever bend one.
Soooo I got a set of rear 6" lift Dobinsons MRAs, put them on, and didn't take a single picture. I messed with the low speed compression/ rebound settings and found that it really calmed down the drivability quarks/ general boatines. Cool. Thank makes me think the geometry in the front is fine and I just have a lot of sprung weight that needs controlled.
Side note: the clickers on the MRAs are bigger but also sharper than the foxes and the detent click is nicer. Overall I really like these. I wish the end user serviceablility was nicer. I wish I could get replacement parts other than seals from dobinsons and I'm scared to know how much it'll be to replace a shaft if i ever bend one.
I love sand Hollow ( my favourite place to wheel ) you have to be careful and use mapping or you can end up on a Buggy line and well you know !
- Thread starter
- #117
I think it’s my new favorite place too. Lots of hard stuff, lots of easy stuff lots, and it easier to get off the trail incase of an emergency.
- Thread starter
- #118
Lets see, what was next. I fixed the bump steer finally. After remeasuring and having a friend do some magic in solidworks, I learned that the frame side panhard was about 7/8"ish off. So I whipped up some brackets to extend the panhard bracket down, made a cover plate and boom. No more bump steer. It really does seem like making the bars parallel really matters most. Who woulda guessed that a rule of thumb was right. Kinda cool. The drop in the panhard made everything crazy tight. I had to throw a bend in the panhard and add in about a 1/4" of bump. I also threw on some boots for the heims because the couple months worth of rain and grime was kinda killing them, ruff stuff heims... not sure how I feel about them.
- Thread starter
- #119
The before and after is pretty telling as to why I was a having bump steer. Idk what I was thinking.
- Thread starter
- #120
Next up was the sway bar. This was kind of a nightmare. I borrowed a mag drill from an acquaintance which made one side a breese.
Issue 1. I started running into issues because drilling through both walls of the frame and keeping the holes lined up felt impossible. I'm sure there's a trick that I dont know... but I had a hell of a time with it and inevitably had to use a carbide bur to get the tube for the sway bar to line up.
This brings on the 2nd issue. I eyeballed the tube placement and was super worried about having it sit too close to the pulley for the AC. I drilled the holes to close to the radiator and with the tube in place, it was putting some strain on the bung on the radiator
. I got clever and decided to just sleeve the frame with the tube...
This brings us to issue #3. Mounting the tube at the correct distance apart AND having them be parallel to eachother took me waaaay to long to do. By this time I was feeling like a real idiot. I got it close enough and while I was welding up the tubes, I caught on fire
Issue 1. I started running into issues because drilling through both walls of the frame and keeping the holes lined up felt impossible. I'm sure there's a trick that I dont know... but I had a hell of a time with it and inevitably had to use a carbide bur to get the tube for the sway bar to line up.
This brings on the 2nd issue. I eyeballed the tube placement and was super worried about having it sit too close to the pulley for the AC. I drilled the holes to close to the radiator and with the tube in place, it was putting some strain on the bung on the radiator
. I got clever and decided to just sleeve the frame with the tube...This brings us to issue #3. Mounting the tube at the correct distance apart AND having them be parallel to eachother took me waaaay to long to do. By this time I was feeling like a real idiot. I got it close enough and while I was welding up the tubes, I caught on fire