I have an 88 that has not had the recall for the fuel tank. My fuel pump needs replacing. My Toyota mechanic says he will need to cut the exhaust pipes(not factory) off just to drop the fuel tank. Then take my pipes back to the exhaust shop to be welded back on…Or I’ve read on here somewhere that some have cut the floorboard above the fuel tank and accessed the fuel pump that way ( I’d need a precise diagram of where to cut)….Or can I take it to a dealership for the recall and let them do it?, thoughts?
Fuel Pump dilemma…maybe
- Thread starter jhanger
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the amount of floor that needs to be cut to remove the fuel pump is quite large as the assembly also includes the pipes.
I drop the tank when doing the pump
surprised the mechanic isn't able to weld it back together
cut exhaust in a straight section and use a small splice piece of tube, found in most auto parts houses, 2 1/2" on both ends and 2 ubolt clamps
I drop the tank when doing the pump
surprised the mechanic isn't able to weld it back together
cut exhaust in a straight section and use a small splice piece of tube, found in most auto parts houses, 2 1/2" on both ends and 2 ubolt clamps
I would cut the exhaust before floor. Exhaust systems are made to be cut and welded and it will be a very easy job below the vehicle. Cutting and welding floorboard will be much larger on the body. I’m sure an exhaust shop would do the weld for $25 if you asked.
Still…with all near and sub-genius fabricators on this site…I’m sure a template and OEM floorboard look-alike sealed hatch would be a welcome addition. Ask me how I know…
How do you know your pump needs replacing? If it's not working check the Circuit Opening Relay by jumping the B+ and FP terminals in the diagnostic block. If the pump is not working and by jumping these terminals the pump works then the problem is with the COR.
I thought I needed to do the pump 18 years ago on a 62 I had.
ended up using a 12 volt battery and jumpering direct thru the sender unit access, rig ran fine
starting tracing harness backwards and found the 4 wire terminal in the driver rear quarter panel under the jack mount and it was corroded
cut the plug out and connected all 4 wires direct, ran with no issue until I sold it a few years later
ended up using a 12 volt battery and jumpering direct thru the sender unit access, rig ran fine
starting tracing harness backwards and found the 4 wire terminal in the driver rear quarter panel under the jack mount and it was corroded
cut the plug out and connected all 4 wires direct, ran with no issue until I sold it a few years later
julianramirez1005
SILVER Star
I can attest to this, did the same thing on mine. The little ground behind the spare tire where the license plate light wiring goes into the undercarriage is something to check as well. It's the fuel pump ground if I'm not mistaken.
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The OEM muffler and tailpipe is under $400 at the dealership. So it sounds like a great time to just do that instead.
- Thread starter
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verified the pump is bad. Cutting the pipes and dropping the tank to swap in a new one. A few years ago the catalytic converter went out. I had them cut off and went with straight pipes. Throaty as hell-sounded like a V8! Then a few months later I had to get inspected. Failed. Went and had the exhaust shop put new pipes on that would pass. That’s why pipes are in the way…now Texas no longer requires inspections. SMH.