Here’s underneath the back on mine.
That splatter is actually cavity wax, not a murder scene inside the body.
FRP Top Removal Difficulties 1997 FZJ73
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Here’s underneath the back on mine.
That splatter is actually cavity wax, not a murder scene inside the body.
- Thread starter
- #22
will look for splatter evidence on my truck as well … thx for the pic will compare cavities when I’m back inside the vehicle
Hello,
By "square" I meant the square on the inside. I should have said inner corner. My mistake.
There are two bolts on each corner, which I understand you have removed already.
I just discovered that Colombia spec FZJ73s have a distinctive feature, namely a rail with five bolts that holds the soft top in place, in order to prevent theft. These bolts are in almost the same place as the Japanese FRP top ones. On each side, there is one bolt close to the roll bar, unlike the Japanese top.
Then there is the bolt you cannot reach in the rear corners. And one bolt on the interior of the upper front door arches. I understand you have removed these bolts and the ones over the windshield frame.
I would try to loosen the hard-to-reach bolts in the rear corners. If these come out, I would try to remove the roll bar bolts to see if the top comes out. If this does not work, I would leave the top alone.
Juan
Hello,
The fasteners should be on the other side of the frame in the last picture, together with one bolt. I am not sure it is possible to access these from the inside.
It might be posible to remove the roll bar bolts and then the top, provided you can loosen the bolts on the rear corners. Otherwise, it is better to leave the top where it is.
These tops are fragile and trying to get them out is not worth the risk of cracking/breaking them.
Juan
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #25
Inspecting the areas in the Left and Right Rear corners and the Channel above the Roll Bar … no FRP Top bolting points … or splatter evidence 
... Must be still tightly secured at the window frame using “hiden under the FRP top” bolts or fasteners as noted.
... Must be still tightly secured at the window frame using “hiden under the FRP top” bolts or fasteners as noted.
The concerning part is that you can’t get the top to move at all with the bolts out.
I don’t believe there are any bolts hiding under the side piece.
Here is the 2 back side bolts removed and the 2 furthest back loosened. You can see I can get it to lift/move. Can yours do that at all?
I don’t believe there are any bolts hiding under the side piece.
Here is the 2 back side bolts removed and the 2 furthest back loosened. You can see I can get it to lift/move. Can yours do that at all?
I wonder if it's siliconed down? I wouldn't be surprised.
- Thread starter
- #28
I hooked a hoist up to the top and the truck’s springs extended … I am 220lbs and put considerable muscle on the stoutest part of the FRP frame/lip (above the rear doors) and it did not budge or separate in the slightest
- Thread starter
- #29
I am boat owner and have a lot of experience trying to separate marine sealant from substrate. I have been thinking the same but see no signs of sealant use. I am afraid to remove/tamper with the gasket/seal that the FRP top sits on because it is a hard to source part.
And they may not even work properly with an aftermarket top.
- Thread starter
- #31
Members watching this thread, @JuanJ graciously educated and helped this noob over the weekend and here is some pictures and a summary of where things stand:
1-Some use of adhesive and sealants that are causing the top to not budge. Today’s focus will be working to free the seal and sealants. I texted the prior owner in Colombian and he also suspects the painting process (my FRP Top is the same color as the body) and use of adhesives may be hindering the removal.
2-There may be hidden connection points to Roll Bar and Window Frame which are underneath the FRP Top and not easily accessable for removal (with the Top on).
3-To remove the Rear Gate the FRP Top will need to lifted straight up to insure this Pin is not deterring the removal of the FRP top.
4-There is a hard to reach bolt in the Rear Corner. This bolt may be holding a side structural member or the RFP Top on.
Any additional thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
Mitch
1-Some use of adhesive and sealants that are causing the top to not budge. Today’s focus will be working to free the seal and sealants. I texted the prior owner in Colombian and he also suspects the painting process (my FRP Top is the same color as the body) and use of adhesives may be hindering the removal.
2-There may be hidden connection points to Roll Bar and Window Frame which are underneath the FRP Top and not easily accessable for removal (with the Top on).
3-To remove the Rear Gate the FRP Top will need to lifted straight up to insure this Pin is not deterring the removal of the FRP top.
4-There is a hard to reach bolt in the Rear Corner. This bolt may be holding a side structural member or the RFP Top on.
Any additional thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
Mitch
@ilmmct My vote is some Sort of adhesive or paint/overspray. I just have a hard time thinking there are some hidden bolts as it would be too hard to get them installed….especially on the front portion.
I have my regular FRP top and a Europe model high top and neither of them have a provision in the rear corner for a bolt It’s possible the South American top does, but I’d be very surprised if it did given how hard it is to get to.
I can fully believe they used silaflex or a caulking of some sort. In this case it might not be possible to remove without damaging the top.
What does this look like on yours? Can you see any evidence of sealant or paint overspray?
I have my regular FRP top and a Europe model high top and neither of them have a provision in the rear corner for a bolt It’s possible the South American top does, but I’d be very surprised if it did given how hard it is to get to.
I can fully believe they used silaflex or a caulking of some sort. In this case it might not be possible to remove without damaging the top.
What does this look like on yours? Can you see any evidence of sealant or paint overspray?
- Thread starter
- #33
upward pressure to expand seal and adhesive … flat plastic pry to expand the seal and adhesive … this concludes this thread … that you all for your assistance!
- Thread starter
- #34
she’s topless!
- Thread starter
- #36
“that you” = Thank you
- Thread starter
- #37
@FJBen yes, sealant I needed the hoist to expand the frame from the top … ever so slightly so I could work the sealant free