Front suspension question for 1985 Pickup (1 Viewer)

[spdracr58]

What would this part of the front axle connecting the axle and frame be called and why would it be there? Bought this truck with the lift and suspension set up the way it is and was under there looking everything over and noticed a crack in the bracket attaching it to the frame. Not sure why that bar is even there.

Any help would be appreciated. Have an FJ40 and it does not have this bar, wondering why it would be there with the same front end on a toyota.

 

[bkg]

Torque bar, IIRC. It’s there to help avoid bump steer either the push-pull steering.

 

[spdracr58]

Torque bar, IIRC. It’s there to help avoid bump steer either the push-pull steering.

So replacing the stock steering with a Hi-Steer I will no longer need it?

 

[bkg]

Correct.

 

[spdracr58]

looks like i have project coming up, thanks.

 

[msahr]

looks like i have project coming up, thanks.

Have fun and do your research. It's 100% worth doing Hy-Steer (Crossover Steering). IFS steering box, at least 4" of lift for the tie rods to clear the oil pan, etc. I used a All-Pro kit and had a local off-road racing / fab shop do the work, because I don't weld.

 

[bkg]

Have fun and do your research. It's 100% worth doing Hy-Steer (Crossover Steering). IFS steering box, at least 4" of lift for the tie rods to clear the oil pan, etc. I used a All-Pro kit and had a local off-road racing / fab shop do the work, because I don't weld.

it can be done w/ 2" of lift on a non-IFS frame.

But it takes a lot of careful planning and measuring.

 

[gnob]

it can be done w/ 2" of lift on a non-IFS frame.

But it takes a lot of careful planning and measuring.

this.
i did hysteer with a 2" dobinson kit on my 85.
you have to definitely take your time to get the box set and clocked properly.

 

[ntsqd]

I did a IFS box cross-over, not High Steer, conversion on Patch, my old '84 with OME front springs. What are those, about 2" lift?

Concur, there are so many things that the drag-link can run into that you need to use the right pitman arm and place the box correctly. In my case I built the right side steering arm so I was able to adjust the height of that end of the drag-link as well. You need to look clearance at both extremes of articulation and at both full lock left and full lock right in combination with the articulation extremes. I recall being surprised by which particular combo was the hardest to make work, but I can't recall what that combo was. Also want the drag-link to be in the zone of 1" to maybe as much as 2" lower at the axle. This so that the first bit of up-travel induces as little bump-steer as possible.

How mine looked when I was done: