Front Parking/Blinker Combo Mod (1 Viewer)

80t0ylc

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Slee’s “Adding indicator light to side marker light” modification at:

Slee - Indicator Light Modification (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

was enlightening and had good pics, but left me a little leery at adding another hole and dual socket into front corner parking or marker light fixture and only using one circuit in the new dual socket.

So, what follows is my version of this mod. My version uses $38 worth of parts from my local NAPA store.
Quantity: 2 ECH LS6490 sockets
Quantity: 2 LMP 1157 bulbs


Also I use existing wiring on my rig (since I have an ARB Bull Bar with aux. turn signals wired up when I installed it. I’ll give alternate stock wiring directions, but additional wire, sleeving and Quick Splices will also need to be purchased before install.). You should be able to do this mod, after all parts are purchased, in 2 hours tops. Also, depending on your rigs wiring and accessories, blinker or flasher speed may be different after mod. If necessary, a heavy-duty flasher unit might be required to maintain original blinker speed. 1157 bulb is rated at 4 watts on low filament (parking) and 27 watts on high filament (Flasher). YMMV

1. I would do one side at a time, to be safe. Pop the hood or bonnet and start with US PS front corner marker (or parking) light fixture. Remove 1 screw as shown on Slee site and pull fixture forward to expose wiring and socket. Connector is attached to fixture but can be easily removed with a pair of needle nose pliers. Leave connector mated together and unscrew light socket to free fixture. (Last picture shows connector on fixture and also shows tab that needs to be squeezed with needle nose to remove from fixture. Remove old socket from fixture and and remate connector with other half still on rig.)

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80t0ylc

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2. Socket hole in fixture needs to be modified for new socket and can be done with a Dremel tool and the right bit. 2nd pic is before mod and 3rd pic is after. Big “ear” on new socket is close to same size of big "ear" on original socket. Start by partially inserting new socket in unmodified fixture and marking places on it that need trimming. When finished either socket can be inserted so it has backward compatibility if necessary. Chips can easily be tapped out of fixture with your hand and air hose if necessary. Check fit of new socket and do final trimming as necessary for good fit. Remove new socket and set fixture aside for later installation.
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80t0ylc

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3. New socket has three wires and butt splices attached.
Black wire: Ground or 12 volt return
Red wire: Turn signal 12 volts
White wire: Parking light 12 volts
These wires will be connected to existing wiring to allow the corner fixture to be both a parking/marker light and turn signal visible from the side and front. On original light harness cut the two wires about half way between connector that was removed from fixture and original lamp socket. Wire colors to socket should be: white/with black stripe (12 v return) and green (12 v parking light). Strip white/with black stripe wire about ½” and green about 3/8”.

(NOTE: If no ARB bumper or wiring is installed, skip to step 4A)

4. 1st pic shows: The wiring to the ARB aux. turn signal can be untied from underneath and pulled up to be accessible to be connected to corner light fixture. 2nd pic shows: With connector still attached to ARB lamp, pull slack in jacketed wires up and cut both jacket and wires in half at end of loop. Cut back outer jacket to expose 2” of inside wires on both sets. Wire colors should be brown (12v flasher+) and blue (flasher return). Strip all 4 wires (2 blue and 2 brown) ½”.
5. 3rd pic shows: Wiring is now crimped together and tested before final wire dressing.
a. The 2 blue wires (from ARB jacketed harness cut in half) are twisted in with the white/with black stripe wire (from original corner fixture) and crimped in butt splice on black wire (on new light socket).
b. The green wire (from original corner fixture) is crimped in butt splice on white wire (on new light socket).
c. Install new 1157 lamp into new light socket (using care to have lamp oriented correctly – tabs on base are keyed) Turn on parking lights to verify correct wiring to socket. Turn back off.
d. The 2 brown wires (from ARB jacketed harness cut in half) are twisted together and crimped in butt splice on red wire (on new light socket). Turn ignition on and try turn signal to verify correct wiring to socket. Before turning signal off, turn parking lights on to verify both circuits work independently and correctly. Turn parking lamps, turn signal and ignition off.

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80t0ylc

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e. Do final wire dressing to fixture as shown in 1st pic. Install light socket into fixture and tuck wiring away leaving just enough to allow installation of fixture into fender as shown in 2nd pic. Re-install fixture into fender making sure bottom locking pin in fixture is mated to hole in fender (this can be viewed from underneath). Re-install screw removed in step 1. Test both parking lights and turn signals before proceeding.

(NOTE: If ARB bumper and wiring is installed and used skip to step 6.)

4A. Original bare turn signal wiring colors are blue (12v Flasher+) and white/with black stripe (return). This can be tapped into directly behind OEM turn signal fixtures with Quick Splices as shown in 3rd pic. Use 16 AWG or 18 AWG, your choice of color (For clarity I’ll stick with OEM wire color in these instructions). Cut an 18” to 24” piece of each color and using a Quick splice crimp to the bare OEM turn signal wires behind the OEM fixtures and run other ends up to be accessible where the OEM corner parking harness is. Strip white/with black stripe wire ½” and the blue 3/8”. Sleeving over wires should be added at this point to protect wiring from chafing leaving 2 inches of wires exposed at either end.
5A. Wiring is now crimped together and tested before final wire dressing.
a. The white/with black stripe wire from the original front corner harness and the white/with black stripe wire added and connected to OEM turn signal are twisted together and crimped in butt splice on black wire (on new light socket).
b. The green wire (from original corner fixture) is crimped in butt splice on white wire (on new light socket).
c. Install new 1157 lamp into new light socket (using care to have lamp oriented correctly – tabs on base are keyed) Turn on parking lights to verify correct wiring to socket. Turn back off.
d. The blue wire added and connected to OEM turn signal is crimped in butt splice on red wire (on new light socket). Turn ignition on and try turn signal to verify correct wiring to socket. Before turning signal off, turn parking lights on to verify both circuits work independently and correctly. Turn parking lamps, turn signal and ignition off.
e. Do final wire dressing to fixture. Install light socket into fixture and tuck wiring away leaving just enough to allow installation of fixture into fender. Re-install fixture into fender making sure bottom locking pin in fixture is mated to hole in fender (this can be viewed from underneath). Re-install screw removed in step 1. Test both parking lights and turn signals before proceeding.
6. Repeat for opposite side.

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80t0ylc

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First pic is what was added. (New parts from NAPA - around $38) 2nd pic is what came off rig - or what was left over. I would save original bulbs and sockets for future use. Never can tell, they might come in handy. My apologies for some of the picture's quality. My intent was to give ya'all the basic idea. Any questions, just ask away and I'll do my best to help you out. That's the beauty of this forum, isn't it?

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I've done the same mod. Since I used Toyota OEM 1157 sockets, I did not have to modify the light housing for the socket to fit. I was never comfortable with the 27 watt bulb in a light design to run with a 2 watt bulb (168) so I swapped out 1157 bulb with a 3 watt LED 1157 bulb.
 
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I've done the same mod. Since I used Toyota OEM 1157 sockets, I did not have to modify the light housing for the socket to fit. I was never comfortable with the 27 watt bulb in a light design to run with a 2 watt bulb (168) so I swapped out 1157 bulb with a 3 watt LED 1157 bulb.

So are the corners significantly brighter with the 3 watt LEDs for the parking lights?
 
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Nice - this mod is going on the list - you wouldn't have the part # for those Toyota sockets would you?

80t0ylc - Nice write up, this will definitely help.
 

80t0ylc

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Nice - this mod is going on the list - you wouldn't have the part # for those Toyota sockets would you?

80t0ylc - Nice write up, this will definitely help.

97 FZJ80, see if you can provide connection points also, for the OEM socket. They'll help when wiring it up. Thanks, Sean! I like it when a mod also enhances the safety of a rig.
 
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I got the sockets from the junk yard. IIRC correctly, the front 1157 sockets are different than the rear 1157 sockets. The 1157 lights are only used until the late 90's when Toyota switched to 3157 bulbs, so look for any early Toyota models with amber front lights without the separate clear front marker lights. I got them from a Celica and a Camry.

Dan might be able to help with the actual part numbers.
 

treerootCO

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Only one problem so far with this mod I haven't gotten around to fixing. On mine, when you hit the brakes, the front markers get brighter.:doh: So until I can add another ground or a diode somewhere, I have front brake lights.
 

Bluetribal

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The completely free and -:banana: mod is to just unplug the bulb from your turn signal in the front valance and unplug the bulb from the corner marker light.
Then re-route the wiring swapping the turn signal bulb to the corner marker and the corner marker bulb to the front valance light. One of the wires is a little tight getting over to the other light fixture but it works.
Screw the light fixtures back in and now you have a turn signal on the corner where other vehicles can see it better. This is the way these lights should have been from Mr. T's plant.:cheers:
 

80t0ylc

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The completely free and -:banana: mod is to just unplug the bulb from your turn signal in the front valance and unplug the bulb from the corner marker light.
Then re-route the wiring swapping the turn signal bulb to the corner marker and the corner marker bulb to the front valance light. One of the wires is a little tight getting over to the other light fixture but it works.
Screw the light fixtures back in and now you have a turn signal on the corner where other vehicles can see it better. This is the way these lights should have been from Mr. T's plant.:cheers:

With the exception that now you don't have a front marker light that you can see from the side. The object of this mod is to enhance safety and not take any away. Nice thought, though.
 

80t0ylc

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Yeah, it seems handy and simple and cheap until fuses start popping and "Twilight Zone" bugs start haunting you. I kinda think they have two separate systems (1. flasher/blinker & 2. parking/marker) for some basic reasons. If you have some background in electronics, it helps to understand it. Granted, we're not talking rocket science here, but we also don't want to put "bailing wire" fixes or overstress our electrical systems in our rigs. I think the spirit of the suggestions being made is awesome! I just think we ought to keep our standards and goals high so we can depend on these well built and designed rigs.
 

80t0ylc

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I wanted to add a suggestion, since I recommended using the Quick Splices for tapping into the existing wiring. It would be a good idea to wrap up any wires with electrical tape, that have the last layer of insulation exposed, such as at the ends of the sleeving added and also cover up the Quick Splices with a layer of tape. Down the road it pays to have double insulation on your wires. IMHO
 

sleeoffroad

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NIce write-up. However these things are the devil.
attachment.php


Never, ever use them on your truck unless you like chasing electrical issues down the line. Do proper connections with solder with crimp connectors.
 

80t0ylc

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NIce write-up. However these things are the devil. Never, ever use them on your truck unless you like chasing electrical issues down the line. Do proper connections with solder with crimp connectors.

Thank you, Christo, for your input! This thread was not an attempt to change the method in your write up on your site! As a matter of fact, I've used your procedure to get familiar with the mod and your pics are superb! I hear what you're saying and I agree, that the Quick Splice type of connector can be a problem area. From my experience, it's usually that it was done in a hurry, or the wires were not correctly seated or the wrong gauge. Also if the harness sees a lot of movement, they could be a problem.

Yes, it would be better to use crimp connectors or solder the wires. To be honest, if I have a choice, I'll usually go another route than the Quick Splice. When I installed my ARB back in 2001, I used similar splices refered to as "Scotch loks" in the instructions that came with it. They are a different color and have been trouble free even with out covering them with electrical tape.
 

80t0ylc

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I need to update this thread because I've had a small issue with the turn signal circuit. I had the 7.5 amp turn signal fuse blow on a day trip that I was on yesterday. There were some intersections that I had the signals on while waiting to proceed. And that's where the trouble exists, I believe. With the additional bulbs, I think a heavier fuse is needed, especially using the 1157 bulbs. I tried another 7.5 amp fuse for the return trip, and it was fine, however the turn signals were just used briefly or for short duration (turning corners and changing lanes). So I'm suggesting that the 7.5 amp be replaced with the next size up, 10 amp, if you do this mod, especially if rig is used for city driving such as a DD, for example.
 

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