Front driveshaft rear spider zerk thread size? (1 Viewer)

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I'm currently chasing down a off-throttle/deceleration front driveline grumble so I decided to just grease all the zerks to see if that helped.

The good news? The grumble almost completely gone - only occasionally did I hear it post-grease! Success!

The bad news? The front drive shaft (non-slip yoke, tcase side zerk is completely missing! Not sure how this happened but here we are. I have a box of M6/M8 zerk fittings (even the 45 degree variants!) but M6 is too small and it doesn't seem like M10 wants to thread so is it safe to say M8 is the ticket?

missing zerk.png
 
I'm currently chasing down a off-throttle/deceleration front driveline grumble so I decided to just grease all the zerks to see if that helped.

The good news? The grumble almost completely gone - only occasionally did I hear it post-grease! Success!

The bad news? The front drive shaft (non-slip yoke, tcase side zerk is completely missing! Not sure how this happened but here we are. I have a box of M6/M8 zerk fittings (even the 45 degree variants!) but M6 is too small and it doesn't seem like M10 wants to thread so is it safe to say M8 is the ticket?

View attachment 3210337
Factory U-Joint or aftermarket?

Could be anything......
 
searching says M6x1.0 which you tried. Is there two different sizes used
The M6 just falls right in the (threaded) hole. The front spider zerk doesn't look OEM either - uses a 45 degree elbow type as well though.

I think OEM is supposed to look like this (90416-06004):
9041606004.jpg
 
Use a needle adapter for greasing hard to get to zerks - total game changer.

e.g. https://a.co/d/hk23wiX

cheers,
george.
 
^^^
Yes, get the item @george_tlc suggest & don’t look back.👍
 
^ essentially the same thing other than it comes with a zerk 'end' installed. I prefer no zerk since the zerk will make it harder to hold/press the needle where you want it since it can 'pivot'.The zerk does make it faster to just clip the gun on versus a) a dedicated gun or b) undo/remove the clip and screw on the needle. Comes down to user preference.

cheers,
george.
 
That needle point zerk thing is awesome!

Also consider getting a new OEM driveshaft if your 80's worth the trouble/cost. They're still available, will last forever properly maintained and you'll take any guessing game out of the situation. Yours looks pretty beat and doesn't look OEM to me based on a cursory glance.

37140-60340Drive shaft front
37110-60520Drive shaft rear

Gl!
 
That needle point zerk thing is awesome!

Also consider getting a new OEM driveshaft if your 80's worth the trouble/cost. They're still available, will last forever properly maintained and you'll take any guessing game out of the situation. Yours looks pretty beat and doesn't look OEM to me based on a cursory glance.

37140-60340Drive shaft front
37110-60520Drive shaft rear

Gl!

Might do so, but the front will probably end up needing a DC shaft when I'm through with it...
 
F1B3AFAA-9C52-498E-B9FB-EE81E81C5F1A.jpeg


Ended up replacing the zerk with a 90 degree one. The needle fitting worked a treat!

The grumble is gone (it was mostly gone with just doing the front one but it’s even better now.

03D3DA23-1BF8-4166-A124-A12BF8D0ADC0.jpeg

49BBD826-AA84-4F50-B02B-144A7D1A1B28.jpeg


The slip yokes were basically empty (20+ pumps each) so I went ahead and did the ô’ “fill em up and go run over some curbs to spit out the excess” method.
 

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