Front Control Arm Bracket Breakage and Repair

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Wait- do you need the @Delta VS arms to work with the @Outsane plates? I just want to get my truck back on the trail and not use poly castor bushings.

If my bracket is cracked, what is my best bet here? Budget is limited to money already spent unfortunately.
 
Wait- do you need the @Delta VS arms to work with the @Outsane plates? I just want to get my truck back on the trail and not use poly castor bushings.

If my bracket is cracked, what is my best bet here? Budget is limited to money already spent unfortunately.
@bonestock the plates work with oem radius arm brackets. So they are compatible with @Delta VS radius arms or others and caster bushings. If you have plates that change your caster the bolt hole locations change.
 
Wait- do you need the @Delta VS arms to work with the @Outsane plates? I just want to get my truck back on the trail and not use poly castor bushings.

If my bracket is cracked, what is my best bet here? Budget is limited to money already spent unfortunately.
Fastest way is probably to weld it. Done correctly, the weld is a permanent repair. Adding these plates seems like a reasonable approach to strengthening the assembly. I'd think you'd want to repair the underlying damage first though...?
 
Wait- do you need the @Delta VS arms to work with the @Outsane plates? I just want to get my truck back on the trail and not use poly castor bushings.

If my bracket is cracked, what is my best bet here? Budget is limited to money already spent unfortunately.
Pictures would help.
I run the landtank plates with OEM bushings.
They can also help to reinforce the mounting bracket if fully welded.
I also welded the bracket to the housing wherever I could.
 
I’ve had people use my 4” plates to repair an axle bracket. The 4” plates have dowel pins that lock into the factory bolt holes and once welded on add additional strength.
My guess is that your 4” lift plates have helped to keep my axle brackets from needing repairs.
My rig has seen many hard trail miles after having installed the plates.
 
My guess is that your 4” lift plates have helped to keep my axle brackets from needing repairs.
My rig has seen many hard trail miles after having installed the plates.
It’s an unintentional benefit of using them
 
Fastest way is probably to weld it. Done correctly, the weld is a permanent repair. Adding these plates seems like a reasonable approach to strengthening the assembly. I'd think you'd want to repair the underlying damage first though...?
Definitely fix any cracks before adding either plate.
 
Pics of my crack (LOL). @Outsane- sent you an email about my recent order

IMG_2871.webp


IMG_2872.webp
 
My crack has some slight seepage (too far?). We added some weld glue in an attempt to get back on the trail but it failed again.
 
Pics of my crack (LOL). @Outsane- sent you an email about my recent order

View attachment 3562530

View attachment 3562531
The polyurethane bushings most likely contributed to the cracking of the bracket.
They just don’t allow enough movement when the axle is articulating.
I would recommend replacing them with OEM bushings
I would also check to make sure your third member bolts are tight, they’re known to loosen up.
@landtank Has a heavy duty stud kit to help alleviate this problem.
And no, I have no affiliation to his products, I do use some of them and I know they work!
 
After much back and forth and erroneous purchases, I have settled on the @landtank 4" plates and OEM bushings and hardware from partsouq.com. going to do the 3rd member /diff gasket while I'm in there.

Thanks for the help here @Outsane & @crikeymike! You guys make / stock quality products and cannot recommend you both highly enough.
 
After much back and forth and erroneous purchases, I have settled on the @landtank 4" plates and OEM bushings and hardware from partsouq.com. going to do the 3rd member /diff gasket while I'm in there.

Thanks for the help here @Outsane & @crikeymike! You guys make / stock quality products and cannot recommend you both highly enough.
At that point it will much easier to just pull the housing out to install the plates and fully weld them 😜 it's much easier with the diff remover and the housing on the bench or some sawhorses. Don't forget the pan hard bushing
Don't cheep out just get the LandTank stud kit, mine diff has loosened up a few times, it's a known issue.
It's a slippery slope for sure, but if you like to wheel and have big tires now's the time to add a truss and Knuckle braces :rolleyes:
1708698997843.webp

And then there's the ARP knuckle bolts and drive flange hardware :cool:
 
After much back and forth and erroneous purchases, I have settled on the @landtank 4" plates and OEM bushings and hardware from partsouq.com. going to do the 3rd member /diff gasket while I'm in there.

Thanks for the help here @Outsane & @crikeymike! You guys make / stock quality products and cannot recommend you both highly enough.
I think the Land Tank plates come with bolts, or maybe I ordered them from him. But I definitely got hardware. Maybe double check before buying more?
 
I think the Land Tank plates come with bolts, or maybe I ordered them from him. But I definitely got hardware. Maybe double check before buying more?
Stock control arm bolt are to short to work with the land tank plates. The plates come with new longer hardware ;)
 
At that point it will much easier to just pull the housing out to install the plates and fully weld them 😜 it's much easier with the diff remover and the housing on the bench or some sawhorses. Don't forget the pan hard bushing
Don't cheep out just get the LandTank stud kit, mine diff has loosened up a few times, it's a known issue.
It's a slippery slope for sure, but if you like to wheel and have big tires now's the time to add a truss and Knuckle braces :rolleyes:
View attachment 3564827
And then there's the ARP knuckle bolts and drive flange hardware :cool:


Just don't know if this is in the cards for me to remove the housing. Thins is still a daily Driver and my friend lets me help on his lift. I like the idea of removing to ensure easy access to the welding locations but, as for trussing and guesting, I'm just not there yet.

Thanks for all the interest here! Looking forward to beefing the old girl up and getting back out there. Spring camping season is just around the corner and need to be in top running condition ASAP. Lot's of asphalt back roads and forest service road miles coming up.
 
You can just tack the plates on, and it isn't that hard to mig weld them in place if you want to do more beads now or later. Personally, I'd do it on the initial install since you have good uncontaminated metal to work with, much better for good welds.
 
Just don't know if this is in the cards for me to remove the housing. Thins is still a daily Driver and my friend lets me help on his lift. I like the idea of removing to ensure easy access to the welding locations but, as for trussing and guesting, I'm just not there yet.

Thanks for all the interest here! Looking forward to beefing the old girl up and getting back out there. Spring camping season is just around the corner and need to be in top running condition ASAP. Lot's of asphalt back roads and forest service road miles coming up.
If you’re pulling the diff and placing the control arm brushing you’re basically there.
There’s is drilling to be considered when installing the LandTank plates.
The drill is more difficult with the Diff in place
 
Back
Top Bottom