Front Control Arm Bracket Breakage and Repair

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If you’re pulling the diff and placing the control arm brushing you’re basically there.
There’s is drilling to be considered when installing the LandTank plates.
The drill is more difficult with the Diff in place
I was confused by this comment since my Landtank plates require grinding, not drilling. I decided to go do some reading, and I learned that there is a difference in installation: the 2.5" (that I have) require grinding and the 4" requires drilling. Good to know!
 
I was confused by this comment since my Landtank plates require grinding, not drilling. I decided to go do some reading, and I learned that there is a difference in installation: the 2.5" (that I have) require grinding and the 4" requires drilling. Good to know!
The 4” plates adds 7* of caster correction. Tilting the axle on the rear bolt would cause all kinds of problems with tie rod contact, springs hitting the bump stops and perch alignment issues. Drilling new holes eliminated all the problems.

The passenger side is tight and you need to use a Milwaukee right angle drill unless you remove the knuckle , then a standard drill works fine.
 
Progress from today

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Back on the road. I’ll get it aligned and see what the verdict is. Sneaking suspicion that I added too much caster.
 
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I think it will fine, a little extra caster is a good thing.
I run the same plates with a 3" lift
Unless you just really want to see the numbers the alignment is a wast of money. The only thing they can adjust is the toe. and you can do that your self.
 
Today I discovered my passenger side bracket is broken ... not a little bit, but the back part, where the stabilizer bar attaches, is off.
Considering the fact, that I was observing a little bit of axle oil seeping since about 5000 km and the completely rounded state of the once crack ... i would say I made it to the Sahara desert and back in that "configuration". I will weld and reinforce it and learned some more again today.
 
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