I found a hot wrench also worked well.
From Rust to Righteous (FJ60 Build)
- Thread starter Sweatyforehead
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- #22
$250 later and the Ranger is fixed!
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- #23
Lots of great ideas to getting the rivets out, but couldn't I just drill them out?
Drilling up through steel sucks ass. Those rivets are hard.
Its easier to get the heads off (grinder,torch cold chisel etc.) And then whump em out with a drift.
I've drilled some in the past, even had a jack under the drill ( to the point of lifting the truck. )but never again.
It takes forever and burns out drill bits...not to mention shoulders.
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- #26
Geez.... why doesn't this surprise me. I bet you had a zap strap on the throttle and just came by once and a while to give the jack a pump.
I just hacked that whole rear part off in one rusty lump and started fresh. Easier that way, but still a sh*tty job.
Geez.... why doesn't this surprise me. I bet you had a zap strap on the throttle and just came by once and a while to give the jack a pump.
.
well yeah...finger would get tired hanging onto that thing. can't have that.
It's a tough old 1/2" metal cased plumbers drill I keep around for just that purpose...some metal shavings have gone into the vent holes on it, so I try not to touch it when it's running. Safety first.
Forhead;
Once you get one rivet out you'll see what we're talking about. After the heads are gone, it's only friction ( rather a lot of it) that holds the rest of the rivet in. So there's really no need to drill the rest of it out, if you can get it to move.
If you have oxy acetylene or plasma that's for sure easiest. If not, cold chisel or grinder.
If you have enough air supply and the right air hammer they come off quite fast, I have a mac one and that's what I use to use at the shop when I did these jobs, but Cam is right it is a dirty job.
My preference, torch off heads, air hammer with pointed attachment....
After rivets are cut off and still quite hot, they pop out of the frame nicely with out breacking a sweat..
One of my most missed tools is a set of torches..
After rivets are cut off and still quite hot, they pop out of the frame nicely with out breacking a sweat..
One of my most missed tools is a set of torches..
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- #31
Took the cruiser out for a spin today!
And, does anyone know about getting ABS into my 60?
And, does anyone know about getting ABS into my 60?
Brakes a little touchy were they?
You'll get used to them, they tend to be a lot more powerful than other vehicles brakes.
Put bigger tires on and it's kinda like abs.
Every time I borrow my old man's pickup I lock up the brakes on the first corner...keeps you alert.
You do not wont ABS in a 60 And i wont say it's impossible cuz anything is possible with enough time and money.
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- #34
ABS would be nice, mostly because im used to the breaks in my ranger
One thing I'd like to share with you guys is that when I was cruising down the highway at around 60-80 It felt like my rear differential had some super gnarly vibration when at speed.
Any idea what it could be?
One thing I'd like to share with you guys is that when I was cruising down the highway at around 60-80 It felt like my rear differential had some super gnarly vibration when at speed.
Any idea what it could be?
I've found that 4 wheel Disc brakes take a lot of effor to lack (at least in my 40). ABS can be extremely scarry if you are decending a steep grade with loose surface materrial... right up there with dripping wet 4 wheel drum brakes.
No thanks... I'll take discs over ABS anyday. I've stopped a 4600 lb 40 with a 4000 lb trailer without problems... It wasn't till I drove over the scale that I had any idea how heavy it was. It stopped strait without a significant ammount of extra effort.
Rear discs are cheap... and easy.
No thanks... I'll take discs over ABS anyday. I've stopped a 4600 lb 40 with a 4000 lb trailer without problems... It wasn't till I drove over the scale that I had any idea how heavy it was. It stopped strait without a significant ammount of extra effort.
Rear discs are cheap... and easy.
Could be funky ujoints, or just bad angles, dshaft out of phase....(all driveshaft issues)
Give it a good shake to see if anything clunks for starters.
used to be a really good site for diagnosing and explaining driveshaft issues, 4crawler or something it was called. Not sure if it's still around.
Or it could be a growly diff. If it's bad enough that you can hear it and feel a vibration, you'd see metal in the oil if you drained it out.
if it comes out and reminds you of the T-1000...well, that's bad.
Fortunately, there's probably 12 different guys in vic with 373 thirds in their basement they can't get rid of if that turns out to be the problem.
With the abs thing, you have to remember, that while the 60 may feel all civilized with it's carpets, comfy seats and a stereo you can actually hear, it is the EXACT same technology as a 40 from the mid 70's. Same brakes, same diffs, same suspension.
So essentially it's a tractor just like a 40, it does a better job of soundproofing than a 40 , and can can carry more s***, but attempting to add abs would be getting into the territory of lipstick on pig/silk purse sow's ear, etc.
You kinda have to embrace the absence of technology.
Nice. Agreed.
Pinion bearing or TC bearing could be worn too.
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- #39
Drained the diff (luckily no diff chunks unless the whole differential has liquified itself).
Now, to fill er' up... s****...
Now, to fill er' up... s****...
hahaha... thats why I always tell people to remove the fill plug first!.
Just weld a big nut on the back so that you can take it off again.
Just weld a big nut on the back so that you can take it off again.