From Rust to Righteous (FJ60 Build) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 30, 2013
Threads
41
Messages
652
Location
Victoria, BC
Might be useful to crosspost the original build thread over to this group...

Original build thread here (https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/725937-rust-righteous.html)



Got my hands on some epoxy and fiberglass cloth and learned how to patch!
De6WVEV.jpg

jtP9pTOh.jpg

Turns out the previous owner really liked his bondo!

Next up, one of the guys over on the VI Cruisers Fourm suggested that instead of the full body off restoration I simply spray off all the dirt and grime, grind off the surface rust and lather almost every surface I can get to with this stuff called "Conquest", I looked up what it actually is and its Phosphoric Acid! When the acid comes in contact with Iron Oxide it converts it to black Ferric Phosphate and the black coating will actually protect against later rust!

First order of buisness was to get the spare tire off..
turns out it is easier said than done. The whole chain winch system was completley bunged up with rust so the chain had to be cut
tzA6H0N.jpg

(Anyone know where I can get a new one of these hoists?)
Z3lbZi8h.jpg


Once the spare was off, I had more room to get a look at my rotting C-Channel section of my rear frame, and im beginning to think we may need to amputate...
CVJCZE6h.jpg

Luckily there were a couple skilled welders/fabricatiors at the VI Cruisers meeting last wednesday that sounded able to do some work on it!

Quick final shot of "The Workbench"
t4re4UGh.jpg



As per the eventual engine swap, the cummins 6bt idea will sadly be put to rest
the wedneday meeting with the cruiser club pretty much gave me 1100lbs of reasons why I shouldn't do the swap and instead go for the lighter Toyota 3B diesel with a turbocharger. There are several other cruisers in the club who have turbocharged 3B deisels and all the remarks said it runs better with a turbo!

Suspension plans are still the same (OME Heavy 3'' lift) as are the tire plans (33'' tires, still unsure of the best A/T - Daily Driver)


Thats all for now, I recently gave my 2 weeks at work in order to go back to school, so the build may slow down to the speed of a turtle covered in molasses. But there will be updates!


Cheers for now, and I hope to see you on the trails in the fall!
:cheers::beer:
 
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I'd be getting a 60 frame from John, if mine looked like yours. A uhaul trailer would move a 60 frame.
 
I'd be getting a 60 frame from John, if mine looked like yours. A uhaul trailer would move a 60 frame.

My ranger could haul one too, but I think im going to stick with the one i've got for now and try and save the rear end.

Now, If I could get the rear end off of that 60 frame Radd is getting rid of that would save me a loooad of time
 
fibreglass does not belong on a landcruiser (except on a 40 roof) . Not sure who told you that was a good Idea , but it isn't . Get a welder and some steel . I am always so disapointed when I find someone has done this to a vehicle . I guess if you had no other options it would suffice but that type of repair lends itself worse rust issues a few years down the road . Not worth the time you'll spend doing it .
 
fibreglass does not belong on a landcruiser (except on a 40 roof) . Not sure who told you that was a good Idea , but it isn't . Get a welder and some steel . I am always so disapointed when I find someone has done this to a vehicle . I guess if you had no other options it would suffice but that type of repair lends itself worse rust issues a few years down the road . Not worth the time you'll spend doing it .

The cloth and epoxy was leftover patch material from my grandfathers boat, and for someone in my financial situation, free is always better than welding
;)
 
Cut the rivets and remove the inner steal plate then take a chisel hammer and give the outside of that frame a hit if it goes through start patching if not frame is good and box it in, drill out the drain holes on frame too. Also the tire carrier underneath is the worst place to have your spare dont put it back is my recommendation. When boxing in frame I can show ya how, if ya want.

Jay
 
My ranger could haul one too, but I think im going to stick with the one i've got for now and try and save the rear end.

Now, If I could get the rear end off of that 60 frame Radd is getting rid of that would save me a loooad of time

John's a good guy... give him a call and ask... If it's not too late already.

I've been down that road before, and don't regret getting a new frame to replace the mediocre one I had. It was much easier in the end. I swapped the running axles across to the new frame, pulled the body off the old frame, hoisted up the engine & trans, rolled the new frame under it, lifted the body & rolled the new frame under it, it was much easier than trying to fix a frame under a truck.
 
Cut the rivets and remove the inner steal plate then take a chisel hammer and give the outside of that frame a hit if it goes through start patching if not frame is good and box it in, drill out the drain holes on frame too. Also the tire carrier underneath is the worst place to have your spare dont put it back is my recommendation. When boxing in frame I can show ya how, if ya want.

Jay

Thats awesome Jay! Do I drill out the rivets or attack them with the angle grinder?

Aside from the rear C-Channel, the frame is in great shape!

tzA6H0N.jpg
 
John's a good guy... give him a call and ask... If it's not too late already.

I've been down that road before, and don't regret getting a new frame to replace the mediocre one I had. It was much easier in the end. I swapped the running axles across to the new frame, pulled the body off the old frame, hoisted up the engine & trans, rolled the new frame under it, lifted the body & rolled the new frame under it, it was much easier than trying to fix a frame under a truck.

Ill give John a call tomorrow and see if he can send some pics of the rear section.

Turns out my busted break line on the ranger will be costing around $300 so it may be a while since some actual coin goes into the build :(
 
John's a good guy... give him a call and ask... If it's not too late already.

I've been down that road before, and don't regret getting a new frame to replace the mediocre one I had. It was much easier in the end. I swapped the running axles across to the new frame, pulled the body off the old frame, hoisted up the engine & trans, rolled the new frame under it, lifted the body & rolled the new frame under it, it was much easier than trying to fix a frame under a truck.

Ah yep. If I had to do it over I'd do the frame swap thing. I fixed mine at the time because i had a lot of time and little money. I still have little money and even less time but given the work involved I'd have sold a leg or an arm (or a left nut) and invested in a good frame. LOL.

Able has some good points about the fiberglass and I tend to agree with him for the most part. On the other hand..... if you dont intend this to be a work of art and plan to use this build to learn as you go, then have at 'er! You'll create a usable truck that you can enjoy without worrying about it too much.

I buggered up several trucks learning a thing or two as I went and the learning isn't over as I'd build my Sixty a little different now...based on what I learned building it to where it is now. If we didn't make mistakes we'd never learn anything .... right?

(don't get any ideas.... left nuts aren't really worth much)

There had to be a Lance Armstrong joke there somewhere......
 
Grind the rivots down with a grinder a use a drift to punch them out... Drilling them will take for ever..
 
Ah yep. If I had to do it over I'd do the frame swap thing. I fixed mine at the time because i had a lot of time and little money. I still have little money and even less time but given the work involved I'd have sold a leg or an arm (or a left nut) and invested in a good frame. LOL.

Able has some good points about the fiberglass and I tend to agree with him for the most part. On the other hand..... if you dont intend this to be a work of art and plan to use this build to learn as you go, then have at 'er! You'll create a usable truck that you can enjoy without worrying about it too much.

I buggered up several trucks learning a thing or two as I went and the learning isn't over as I'd build my Sixty a little different now...based on what I learned building it to where it is now. If we didn't make mistakes we'd never learn anything .... right?

(don't get any ideas.... left nuts aren't really worth much)

There had to be a Lance Armstrong joke there somewhere......

Yeah the fiberglass was more of a "moment of oppurtunity" situation. Got some cloth and epoxy from my grandfathers patch kit on his boat for free.

Ill still be getting a patch panel for the big hole on the rear left quarter but still waiting on some decent funding to get in the zone
 
Ill give John a call tomorrow and see if he can send some pics of the rear section.

Turns out my busted break line on the ranger will be costing around $300 so it may be a while since some actual coin goes into the build :(

wtf line is that?

Just buy bulk hard line and a brake line tool for 50 bucks... or if its the soft one buy it from rock auto for 50 bucks including shipping...
 
wtf line is that?

Just buy bulk hard line and a brake line tool for 50 bucks... or if its the soft one buy it from rock auto for 50 bucks including shipping...

Yeah no kidding...generic hardlines with ends are cheap as hell at Lordco....as in 10 bucks or so.

You aren't getting scammed by midas or something are you?
 
Yeah no kidding...generic hardlines with ends are cheap as hell at Lordco....as in 10 bucks or so.

You aren't getting scammed by midas or something are you?

It's because I'm getting semoes auto to do it for me, the busted part is underneath the truck bed and behind the gas tank. The reason why it costs so much is because of the labor
 
i've got a 4spd trans/t-case for you out of a 3B, you can start collecting parts right away for your swap!!! Come get it out of my yard!

Nah dude, looking for the 5speed (I'd like your 3B though...), but the engine swap won't be until the susepenson/bodyframework/tires are done
 
For the rivets I found the best way is to use grinder with cutting disc and put cross in it then use an air chisel and drive them out, if you have access to those, or like Adam said.
 
I got lazy towards the end when i was doin rivets... I was washing them off with a plasma cutter...
 

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