I have a 2004 100 Series Land Cruiser with 160K miles. It drives fine, but I was told by an auto repair and refurbishing group (with a stellar reputation) that the frame is totally rusted out and that the vehicle is unsafe to drive at speeds over 45 mph. Am I totally screwed or is there some frame reinforcement solution out there? Thank you.
Frame Rust Question
- Thread starter ACK33
- Start date
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Get a second opinion. BUT, I've seen some pretty trashed cars from Ohio.
Post some good pix, lots of expert opinions here.
Post some good pix, lots of expert opinions here.
Got to see photos of that.
I have had a custom section made for mine that I welded in place where there was bad rust through the frame. It’s also where I jack the truck up and still supports the full weight easily.
We can't help you if you have no pictures. The 100 series have pretty thick frames and quite a bit of metal. They take quite a bit of corrosion before they succumb to rust. But even then they can easily be patched with a welder.
"Am I totally screwed" Based on statement, you posted., Screwed, YES! Depending on what you paid, perhaps not totally.
"Over 45 MPH" I can see where one might say that. Since the risk of a deadly crash increases with speed. But, I've not heard anyone make a statement like, due to rust. So it must be bad. Especially considering your area they deal with "bad" rust on most all vehicles.
The rust will be in much more than just the frame. It will become a money pit, with little recoupable value. So don't put money into it.
Sell it or part it out. Chock-it-up to lesson learned. Hire a "good" inspector on your next used vehicle purchase. Trick is finding a good inspector.
Parting out can be lucrative. But takes time, labor and space.
Selling, gets the pain over fast.
"Over 45 MPH" I can see where one might say that. Since the risk of a deadly crash increases with speed. But, I've not heard anyone make a statement like, due to rust. So it must be bad. Especially considering your area they deal with "bad" rust on most all vehicles.
The rust will be in much more than just the frame. It will become a money pit, with little recoupable value. So don't put money into it.
Sell it or part it out. Chock-it-up to lesson learned. Hire a "good" inspector on your next used vehicle purchase. Trick is finding a good inspector.
Parting out can be lucrative. But takes time, labor and space.
Selling, gets the pain over fast.
- Thread starter
- #9
Well, that is some legit serious rust. You usually don’t see that kind of flaking outside of a Greek bakery.
That body mount you’re showing could break free, affecting the truck’s stability. A detached trans crossmember will cause a lot of driveline movement, which in turn will rattle loose other turn-y bits.
So yeah, if your pics are typical of the overall condition, that indeed looks like a frame-off resto job if it’s gonna be saved.
Was this a saltwater flood salvage vehicle? I’m scratching my head wondering how it got like that after only 160k.
That body mount you’re showing could break free, affecting the truck’s stability. A detached trans crossmember will cause a lot of driveline movement, which in turn will rattle loose other turn-y bits.
So yeah, if your pics are typical of the overall condition, that indeed looks like a frame-off resto job if it’s gonna be saved.
Was this a saltwater flood salvage vehicle? I’m scratching my head wondering how it got like that after only 160k.
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Yup, that's legitimately bad. That sway bar mounting point is not long for this world either.
I've seen worse, but that's about typical for rust belt. I wouldn't say it's unsafe to drive at all, but it's also probably beyond turning it around and "saving" it without major repairs. If it were mine I'd probably use a rust encapsulator like POR to try to slow things down and then probably start looking for another truck.
Your best bet here is Fluid Film. You cannot and will not save that frame from its impending doom, but you can prolong its life by using FF annually. Mine is pretty bad, but yours has some spots that are wayyyy worse. Your body is going to be showing those same cancer spots very very soon. If you just bought this and your state has lemon laws, I’d be looking into them unless you bought with an As-is scenario. However, my stance has always been this; A rusty Cruiser will get you to and from the same spots a cream puff Cruiser will. And you likely won’t give 2 sh!ts about a massive scratch/damage from trail rash because she’s on her last leg, living her best life anyway. That’s my take, do as you will and do so safely!
That is some interesting rust to say the least. There is some horrific rust right next to an area that doesn't look bad at all. Did this come from an area that puts down sand with salt? There are spots in the frame that definitely rusted from the inside out.
Easiest solution, if you want to put money into the truck... frame swap and upgrade all the removed components. Not worth the time and money if the body of the truck is in similar condition as the frame, tough. How are the inner/outer rocker panels? If they are blown out... drive it until it dies! Don't waste time/money on POR15, thats just putting a bandaid on a gunshot wound at this point...
Salt water flood or lots of boating? Sorry OP that’s a rough one. Woolwax or NH oil to buy time.
I have a 2004 (avatar pic) that just turned 250K miles with significant rust in areas that are what you get being driven in WV for most of its life...Been in it now for over 3 years, and a friend who is a mechanic told me to get rid of it, or don't be surprised if a bolt breaks and the whole frame comes loose. That said, I don't drive up boulders with it, and it is running well...hard to get rid of it, but it's a daily driver, and the safety issues that arise from the rust give me pause. Watching...
Get another opinion from a shop that does undercarriage work. Auto repair shops see different than a frame restoration shop trust me lol
- Thread starter
- #20
Thanks - I bought it new from a dealer in ‘04. Strictly from road salt.