for sale: 89 FJ62 with blown engine (1 Viewer)

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- Computers slow here,
http://groups.msn.com/NWFLToyota4WD/tabbyrebuild.msnw
click copy paste- She starts up everytime, no leaks, just rusty body. Was planning to install an aluminum tub once i returned. But--- the ex-wife seems to think that scince Im over here - she doesn't have to pay bills. So the credit companys are calling me. which is against The Soldiers and Saliors relief Act while station in a combat zone. Which by paying them will expend the money saved to buy the aluminum tub. Don't worry my attoney has allreadly file papers to sue her for repayment and court costs. (sorry had to vent)
Great cruiser (yellow tabby) - formally owned by a cruiser club member for years. daily driver. later gotta run.. ray

looking at the 4 runner. if interested in trade.
 
That sucks I've had problems in the past with finace comp. not following The The Soldiers and Saliors relief act. Hope things work out.

When is your ETA to be back in FL?

What are you looking to get out of your FJ40?

How is the frame?
 
rubberduck said:
I'll work on some pics.
And the $64,000 question....does it have lockers? (you mentioned ALL options, but I've heard that from just about every dealer/person selling a cruiser even when it doesn't have the diff-lock option...)

:cheers:
 
mabrodis said:
And the $64,000 question....does it have lockers? (you mentioned ALL options, but I've heard that from just about every dealer/person selling a cruiser even when it doesn't have the diff-lock option...)

:cheers:


You in the market again brodis???
 
ttt
 
FJBen said:
You in the market again brodis???
Possibly...all depends on the price.. :D
 
are you available this saturday for me to take a look and take for a spin? :beer:

-Mike
 
1977 FJ40 in Colorado

Starting to look for a rig for Sarah and having 5 trucks at my house (not Ige's or Mike's) is a lot. besides, I hardley drive it. If I sell the 40, I can then get that supercharger for the LX450 and some other toys.

$8500 or $8000 without the STC soft top and 2 piece soft doors (With Hard Top at both prices).

For $9000, I'll even flip the Bezel for you.

All the maintenace is up to date and this truck needs nothing. My next project would have been to regear and put 35's on it. Re-gearing not needed for 33's

I drive 70+ on the highway with no issues.

In the last 5,000 miles
Front and Rear axle rebuilds
Both drive shafts rebuilt and balanced
Rebuilt (by Ige) Tcase
4" Skyjacker Lift
Aussie Locker in rear
Greasable shackles
Bilstein Shocks
Oil Pan Gasket replaced
Mini-Truck Power Steering
HEI DUI Electronic Distributor geared for a 2F from Performance Labs
33x9.5x15 BFG AT KO's (Including spare)
Idles great at 600 rpm
Rear Bench Seat
New Hawkdriver (from Mud) front Bumper
Replaced front and rear turn lights
Lecarra 15" Steering Wheel
AM/FM/CD Stereo
Cobra 40 Channel CB Radio
Tachometer
New Windsheild

Also:
Full Roll Cage
Set of Factory Service manuals
Spare set of Birfields
Complete Front axle rebuild kit (Rebuilt done, kit bought for spare birfs in case of trail repair needed)
Hard Top and doors
Rear Tube Bumper



With hardtop:

attachment.php


With Soft Top and 2 piece STC doors:

attachment.php


New Hawkdriver Bumper:

attachment.php

FJ40 017.webp
FJ40 024.webp
FJ40 027.webp
 
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1977 FJ40 In Arizona

I have a 1977 with 170K mi that I bought ~3 years ago from a friend of mine for $7500 that I would like to get $8000 for. I think he had it a couple of years before me. The truck originated in California and, as I understand, I am the 4th owner. It has been sitting in the garage most of this time as a novelty item as my main toy vehicle is an expedition ready 100 series that keeps me busy. I need the space and the money to finish it up (re-gear, front locker and an onboard Nav) so this one must go. Also, (this is kind of embarrassing) I do not like the red color and since this is an original vehicle (with the color code plate still attached), when the time comes to re paint, it would be a shame to change color.

Let me start with the bad

A couple of months after I bought it a rolled it on it side (see picture). That was a roll from a stand still and it damaged the left corner of the roof, the upper rear corner of left side panel and a nicked the front left fender. The fender was easy to repair and you could not tell from the outside or in (just straitening and painting - I have pictures of the whole process). As I priced out the side panel, it is not worth fixing; especially when the curved window is broke and by itself is more expensive then the whole panel (~$200). I have not priced the roof, but I suspect it is the same as the panel. It also has holes from an old antenna and needs a headliner. At any rate it is easily fixable. I fitted a family safari top and have been driving it like this since.

The other thing that annoys me is that the previous owner drilled holes in the sheet metal to mount various after market stuff. 2 holes in the firewall to rout A/C that I since removed. Small holes in each doorjamb to route a speaker wire to the doors and a hole pattern at the rear left quarter panel to mount a CB antenna.

It needs a good suspension system and to rebuild the steering box

The last negative point that I can think of is that, again, the PO installed a locker in the back (Lock Right, I think) that, to me, is quit aggravating to drive on the road. It is unstoppable on the trail, though. I have the original Diff.

The rest of the stuff

It is a rust free straight vehicle that is very original. It starts and runs good. I use it to drive my daughter to the stable every couple of weeks (15 mi or so). Paint and drive train are original even though the paint is faded, especially the horizontal surfaces. Original AM Radio and everything else works.

To pass emission test I had to replace Manifolds gaskets. All original emission equipment is on and working and it passed emission since.
Rebuild original carburetor and replace one of the aftermarket fuel rubber lines with metal one.
Cleaned up engine compartment wiring, installed geared starter and high output ignition (by the PO), and I gel cell (Oxide) battery.
PO rebuilt the rear axle (when installed the locker)
PO installed new radiator and I installed new hoses
PO replaced the all the steering linkages ends.
I rebuild the front axle (what a messy job that was)
I replace the front seats foam and re-upholstery all.
I have a Mean Green High output Alternator that I installed and then removed as I did not want to blow up the Ammeter.

I made it sound worse that it is but I rather it be like this then the other way around.

I think this is all for now. If you have any questions, let me know.

Thanks, Doron.
Bruiser 2.webp
Bruiser1.webp
 
The Bad –
  • Diamond Plate qtrs could cover both of these issues.
    • Body in good shape with a few small rust spots on qtr panel.
    • Passenger rear qtr panel was dented and bondo repaired.
  • Drivers side amby door has a small rust hole on the bottom of the inner plate.

Also, the headliner has a couple of rips. Hardtop has been stored inside shed since removed two years ago. No issues with top.
FJ40 021.webp
FJ40 022.webp
FJ40 019.webp
 
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Read the history. Select the ROTW link in my Sig Line.

PM me with questions
 

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