dclee said:
NICE!
So, will Christo be your agent in the States...
Im sure Christo can produce a similar set up easily, but Im sure he will get some pics in his email in box when completed.
As for the 10mm body lift, its easy, uses the standard bolts, takes about 1hr, and is all that is needed, which is what we aim for. Why do a 2" bodylift if 10mm achieves the required result?
On my troopy [2001]I ran 36 x 13/16 TSL's on 10" rims, with 3" suspension lift, and 10mm body lift, and rear bump stops on the front, which were slightly longer [20ish mm] so they didnt rub articulated. I also had 80 front shocks [similar front suspension] making 70mm more droop with sway bar spacers for the tail shaft, and I modded the rear of the front control arms to take a castor correction bush, moving the diff forward 14mm, to stop the tyres rubbing on the lock, along with a fender flatten of the body seam, and some new mud flaps.
My rear shocks were also extra long, and I modded an OME spring pack to suit my requirement, and had the shocks valved to suit [was close to coil spring valving to stop weight transfer]
On my 40 [in 2000] we moved the front fenders up to the bonnet line, and made the rear arches bigger, longer, same as the front, and stretched the wheelbase to 98" using 60 series springs, so with 38"s it looked fairly normal, until it got close, on the road, and we did this by redrilling centre bolt holes in the diff plates, moving big eye mounts for the springs on the chassis, using 75 series power steering, wider housings, widening the front fenders, and swapping the rear chassis x member shock mounts to the rear of the pipe section, instead of the front, and cut the sills off, to match the bottom of the fenders new height.
On my prado we panel beated the front inner fenders, and re painted them with factory wrinkle paint, to allow 285's on 80 series offset rims to fit in the original fenders with no body lift, and a 3" suspension lift, with no bump stop spacers, so the movement of the rim outward on the 80 offset, stopped them rubbing on the chassis on the lock.
On my 80 we used a 30mm body lift, to fit 36" swampers [back in 1996,] with 75 series rear shocks, we changed the top mount on because they were the longest we could get at the time, and had them re valved. [had to use a 20mm bump stop spacer then] We also changed the rear mounts by cutting them off the housing, shortening them, and re fitting them to the diff housing, as well as moving the rear top mount up to suit, along with moving the spare wheel mounts up the 30mm + to fit the spare under as high as we could.
On my current vehicle we spaced the control arms forward 15mm [the amount of thread available] fitted copies of factory flares made 4" longer so we could cut out the fender, and trimmed alot from inside the fender, used 3.25" backspaced 17 x 10" beadlocked rims to stop them hitting on the lock, and made the tray fenders to suit, so the 40" tyres fitted with no bodylift, and we cut and trimmed the steel bull bar. [This keeps the vehicle looking balanced with biger tyres]The 6" springs work well with our extra long shocks [described already in this thread] and we have spaced the factory front bump stop 30mm down, to stop the tyres rubbing, but have gained 130mm of travel there still, and in the rear we have an offset steel bracket to alter the bump stop by 40mm, but offset it so at slow articulation, where the shock has in built hydro lock, the bump stop goes down beside the spacer, not restricting travel, but at speed, the spacer will contact the bump stop.
The spacers are there until we get the Fox shox with internal bump stop fitted, and the rear gained 160mm of travel,for fitment of the bracket, and we are at max travel of the standard bushes, and arms with this set up.
These are the sort of mods which dont look like "booty fab" [rhs on its flat, drilled out hockey pucks, afterthought looking flat bar brackets, cut up platic chopping board packers etc,] and to the average person, dont look modified, and this is what we try to achieve, is a balance, so the car stands out for its balanced look, and seemingly factory parts looks, and we do it this way, because anyone can do "booty fab"
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) I owned this vehicle with OME and 33's without bumpstop lowering and know it never flexed like this. This is one helluva improvement no matter what the #'s are. SCREW the numbers. 
