"Flood Resistant" Build Up

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Anyway, still measuring the front coil mounts, I could set it with 12.5” height coil without any body mods, but I want a bit more travel. At the end I set it to accommodate 15” height coil with minor body mods. Fyi, the shock travel only about 9”. And the actual suspension travel will be about 12,5”. So I should buy a longer shock, but at this point, I’ll just settle as it is. Just leave it for next project. This radius arm system with panhard suits me cos I want more comfort handling, easy to do with the available oem control arm.

For on road manner, the radius arm system is an upgrade from the leaf. Drawback is the flexibility and bind. So another upgrade would be a longer arm with shape that sits parallel with the frame, heim or johny joint, and maybe weld it to the inner frame. This might be my next project if I’m not satisfied with the current set up. If you want more hardcore I think the 3 links front and 4 links rear with coilover will be best. The rule should be the same more offroad flexibility, less onroad manner and vice versa.
DSC01660i.webp
DSC01661i.webp
DSC01662i.webp
 
Last edited:
Oh I forgot to mention about the radius control arm, I was going to use the one from 80 series since it bent upward and sit more parallel to the frame compared to the ones from troopy. But the control arms from 70 series are much beefier. I thought using the 80’s, I could land on the driveshaft and that is bad. With the 70’s I could double use it as a slider, not on purpose of course. So my choice is the 70’s. For somebody who wants to use the 80’s arms, better use the axles as well due to the high pinion so the driveshaft sits higher as well as the arms. And no I can’t use the 80’s third member in the 60’s cos it is smaller and reverse cut. I thought about the conversion for days and talked to my cousin about it, and he says, “you’re such an idiot to spend so much time on the impossible”

I got a good deal for disc brake assembly from the 80’s, so I took it and will put it in the rear as well. So excited that I will have 4 disc brakes. Dunno why but ever since I was a kid 4 disc brakes seem such a luxury.
DSC01663i.webp
 
Also while waiting for the front axle to be delivered, I ordered tempered window and put them on. Now it look more like a car.

Btw, I'm gonna use 33" tires, but had a bit cut out on the fender so it could fits 35" tires in the future.
DSC01666i.webp
DSC01665i.webp
 
for your type of light duty "wheeling" would a good winch be better than LS both ends or lockers both ends.
if you do go factory LS, you can pull the units apart, sand blast the friction plates, add 1/4" of tension shims and reassemble. this makes the LS grab better and last longer. make sure you add the LS additive to the gear lube.

i love what you are doing.
 
crushers said:
for your type of light duty "wheeling" would a good winch be better than LS both ends or lockers both ends.
if you do go factory LS, you can pull the units apart, sand blast the friction plates, add 1/4" of tension shims and reassemble. this makes the LS grab better and last longer. make sure you add the LS additive to the gear lube.

i love what you are doing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. Will do just that. Been thinking about winch too. Warn kinda pricey, not sure about tmax. Got offered a good deal on 9000 lbs pulling power warn 9.5ti I think, but many say it's not strong enough and better get the 12000 lbs. More than likely, I'll settle with the Tmax. But usually you get what you paid for though :hhmm:
 
warn 8274, the only winch to have.
remember, the winch is there to get your butt out of the mess your head and right foot engaged you in.

also, a winch can literally save your life ...
 
crushers said:
warn 8274, the only winch to have.
remember, the winch is there to get your butt out of the mess your head and right foot engaged you in.

also, a winch can literally save your life ...
Click to expand...

Yeah 8274 is the expensive one :D everybody swears by it though. Here, most people use 8274. The guy who offered me the 9.5ti wants to get the 8274 as well. I like the 9.5ti cos it has extra sealant against water. I actually tell myself not to put winch cos electric winch needs hi alternator, and you'd be surprised a "refurbished" 135 amp alternator costs $500 here! :censor: 8274 $1600. Factory Pto $1900. Hydraulic n/a.
 
actually, a high amp battery and a stock alternator works extremely well. i usually run a second battery just for the 8274 with an isolator. if you are stuck so bad that you kill both batteries then you have more to worry about than the stuck.
brand new 8274 here is $1800 to $2400 depending on which one you buy and which vendor you use.
 
crushers said:
actually, a high amp battery and a stock alternator works extremely well. i usually run a second battery just for the 8274 with an isolator. if you are stuck so bad that you kill both batteries then you have more to worry about than the stuck.
brand new 8274 here is $1800 to $2400 depending on which one you buy and which vendor you use.
Click to expand...

That's right!! Keep the alternator, double the battery, and never run out of juice for starting the engine again. :)
 
Last edited:
Finally done with the suspension mounts, and next is to remove the tub and work on the unfinished frame. If only I have a sand blaster, I wouldn’t spend so much annoying time sanding the frame. At the end, I paid somebody to do that. The labor rate is so low you just have to make use of it. Imo buildup turn off is the sanding. Anyway, smooth out the frame with a bit of bondo here and there. The welds are not buffed off, but paste over. I always admire the smoothness and clean look of a hotrod. Everything is just so beautiful from all angles.
DSC01793i.webp
 
Beef up the front axle. I never had problem wheeling with stock axle in the past except the diff cover. It is thin and can’t stand smashing into the rocks. Worst case scenario is broken ring gear. So this is the diff cover guard, was going to use a plate but decided to use the tube instead. Beef up the rear axles as well. Next will be to sand all over before painting.
DSC01779i.webp
DSC01816i.webp
 
More putty and epoxy primer pictures. Engine and coil mount.
Can't wait to paint the frame and top it with clear coats to make it durable and easy to clean.
DSC01808i.webp
DSC01824i.webp
 
Btw what do you think if I paint the frame medium gray like this? does it look nice and professional, or just too much? Will paint in a couple of days. Black glossy or gray? Appreciate your feedback. Thanks. :hhmm:
New-2i.webp
 
love it,
i am doing a troopy build and the frame is going to be close to that color.
 
crushers said:
love it,
i am doing a troopy build and the frame is going to be close to that color.
Click to expand...

Thanks Wayne. I planned on the traditional black, but hey let's do something for a change. So gray it is! for me, as long as it is only the frames, not the arms, coils, axles, and the rest. :cheers:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom