FJ62; no Codes, cranks, runs on starter fluid. (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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24
Location
Metairie, LA
Hey guys,
1st post here on my relatively new to me FJ62. She sat for a few years by PO while waiting on parts, career change, injury, covid. I changed the oil, plugs, fuel filter, rotated crank by hand.

I had the fuel pump replaced, tank redone by mechanic. My mechanic was stumped and needs to move vehicles through his shop.

1) I was able to get CEL to produce no codes (flashing). (51 and 11 flashed earlier). replaced TPS - was sticking, calibrated. Charged battery. No codes now.

2) runs fine on starter fluid. One can hear EFI relay and OCR relay kick. Regardless, I jumped (B+,Fp) - cranks but refuses to run.

3) I guess I can pull these relays out and meter them, but is there anything I’m missing unless fuel pump not kicking?

Mechanic said he was able to get fuel to injectors and they were pulsating. Would like to take his word.

Ground? Everything looks factory.
Thoughts??

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red66toy

Supporting Vendor
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Feb 25, 2003
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4,068
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Seattle, WA
Can you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key to on or jump the fuel pump contacts? You should be able to hear the high-pitched whine if you put your ear back there. If you are getting fuel I would turn my attention to the ignition side of things. Getting a spark at the plugs?
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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Location
Metairie, LA
Unfortunately I do not hear fuel pump whining in the cabin when ignition is “on”. I’m would imagine it’s noticeable as that is all I read in the forums. It’s actually hard to have some quiet time here but I have it at night. Will try jumping B+, Fp and bypassing Open circuit relay again tomorrow morning to listen.

I’m praying this mechanic installed the fuel pump as instructed but I l’m having my doubts in this post covid world. I can definitely hear the EFI relay (hood).
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
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Vermont
You can always jump power and ground straight to the fuel pump in the back and then see if the truck starts. If the pump is directly jumped and you hear it running but the truck still won’t start then it’s time to check the fuel pressure at the rail. If the fuel pressure is low or none then you either have a plugged line or a failed FPR or a plugged filter. If you have goo pressure at the rail then you may have a broken pump wire somewhere between the pump and the relay
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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Metairie, LA
Update - bypassed the Circuit Opening Relay (“COR”) this AM and confirmed the fuel pump whine. Victory for me. Had to use a mechanics stethoscope to hear. (It is a brand new pump.) So no need to drop the tank again.

Going to order new circuit opening relay and see if I can salvage this one. My multimeter is not reliable. So unconventional confirmation!

Stay tuned!
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
Messages
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Location
Metairie, LA
Hmm. Stumped. According to another thread, car should start if COR is bypassed and fuel pump works (which it does).

There is definitely fuel under pressure at the cold start injector. No codes (quick flashes). The TPS may be a hair off? I put feelers at the throttle stop. I get spark, fuel at cold start injector. It runs fine on starter fluid. Fuel not too old.

Any ideas? Still FPR? Or something electrical? ECU? Air? Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Joined
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cali
Hmm. Stumped. According to another thread, car should start if COR is bypassed and fuel pump works (which it does).

There is definitely fuel under pressure at the cold start injector. No codes (quick flashes). The TPS may be a hair off? I put feelers at the throttle stop. I get spark, fuel at cold start injector. It runs fine on starter fluid. Fuel not too old.

Any ideas? Still FPR? Or something electrical? ECU? Air? Thanks!
When you put your key into the ignition and turn it to the on position do you have a check engine light on? The battery and brake light should be on as well. You WILL NOT hear the fuel pump run at this stage because it is not designed to run at this stage (unless, of course, you force it to run via the check connector). The fuel pump will only run when cranking or when the engine sucks air through the air flow meter. If the engine isn’t on and sucking air, it won’t run - this is a safety feature.

Also, to clarify, you say you’ve jumped the fuel pump and battery positive at the check connector and verified that fuel is reaching the fuel rail during the force run, is that correct? How have you verified it? And you’ve tried to start the vehicle but it won’t fire even with the fuel pump in a forced run state?

Are you still waiting for the circuit opening relay (fuel pump relay)? You say your multimeter isn’t trustworthy - I’d upgrade that immediately. You may need it soon.

Will you please take a few pics of the engine bay so we can get a look at the set up?

Have you verified the testing / under load voltage of the battery? Any corrosion at the terminals? Are they tight?
 
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Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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Metairie, LA
Battery charged and tight. See engine bay. That’s what I figured on the COR relay. There was an erroneous post I was reading earlier. It looks like a AFM fuel pump switch (or incorrectly MAF) OR the Starter Crank closes the COR relay for the fuel pump. So i will have spare parts! I loosened the banjo on the cold injector and there was fuel under pressure.

But yeah, engine doesn’t fire when fuel pump is forced running (B+, Fp) at best, I get an intermittent fire that can’t complete a cycle. But runs buttery smooth on starter fluid. No codes (quick flashes) when I run diagnostic.

There is more fuel than that, it takes a second or two to get just shy of 1/4. But I may put some more in now that I know fuel pump is operational.

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Joined
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cali
Hm. Your CEL is on which Im pretty sure means the EFI circuitry is good And all the connectors are plugged in and letting the ECU know it’s good to start. You have spark, theoretically you have air since it runs with starting fluid, so I think it would be fuel related. You have a new pump, fuel is making it past the new fuel filter, the only thing left that‘s critical is the fuel pressure regulator and the injectors themselves. You say your mechanic verified fuel making it to the injectors but you can do a quick test while it’s running with starter fluid - feel the lines coming from the fuel filter and check for pulsation. Perform the same pulsation feel check on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and just for fun on the pulsation damper. If you can reach your hands in you can do the same on the injectors. I know some people say you can hear or feel the pulse using a screwdriver or something but I’ve never done that and don’t vouch for it. Maybe look it up on YouTube for guidance. id actually perform this pulsation check twice - once while the fuel pump is forced to run via the check connector and then, as I said before, while it’s running from, starter fluid.

If you do end up replacing the FPR I recommend replacing the pulsation damper along with it. I just recently had this same issue but I think my issue was an unplugged sensor. No-start (does crank) 1989 FJ62 - need input [SOLVED] - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/no-start-does-crank-1989-fj62-need-input-solved.1289252/

You could also do a fuel pressure and leak down test. Autozone rents the equipment.
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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Metairie, LA
Status update. It’s not the COR as we suspected. FPR and OEM Damper have been ordered. Would like to check the fuel pressure at the rail but this will have to do for now. Grounds are secure and check out at harness and all over the engine. All fuses good to go.
Mechanic did say injectors were “pulsating”. Will need help for that.

I did see a splice at the ECU attached to the speed sensor (G-B) for an aftermarket cruise control which I took off and did not affect.



Narrowing down the list:

1) not getting enough pressure at rail/injectors? inadequate new fuel pump installed? (Unlikely?)
2) FPR
3) fried ECU somewhere in circuitry? Have not encountered anything that would suggest.
4) contaminated 1/4 tank gas (unlikely?)

Stay tuned and ANY suggestions welcome!
 

Zjohnsonua

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Have you pulled the cold start injector and made sure it is working?

Weird aside, but what's the compression on this engine? Has it been tested yet?
 
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For giggles pull the cold start injector. Could be caked up with build up. Put it in a Mason jar and have someone turn the key. Should spray a fine mist not dribble.
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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Metairie, LA
Thanks guys. Cold start injector was caked. I mean caked in build up, the pinhole was clear though. I even went ahead and bypassed the COR, careful not to start!! Fuel out the cold start fuel line was nothing.

I will say this though - there was fuel pressure when I cracked the line to remove. Thoughts?

I didn’t bother checking the injector spray.

So either blocked. Or it’s FPR? Thanks guys!
 

Zjohnsonua

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FPR dumps simply dumps pressure to drain.

Try cranking it with the cold start injector removed. See what the fuel flow looks like per benton's suggestion. Let's see what you find.
 
Joined
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Metairie, LA
I think cranking an engine with possible open fuel stream is bad idea jeans.

I don’t mind bypassing directly to the fuel pump and not cranking. The fuel flow was nothing coming out the banjo fitting. Will have an extra hand this evening.
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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Zero fuel. Zero fuel coming pumping before the filter. I’m not a happy camper. You can hear pump whirring when COR bypassed. AFM flap works too to kick pump.

The mechanic brought the tank to be coated and I guarantee you didn’t check the lines or blow fuel lines. Sorry guys. I’m pissed. The injectors pulsating, was likely fabricated; and I’m sure my last efforts was the fuel remaining between filter and engine.

Thanks for help.
 
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Mar 22, 2021
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Metairie, LA
Nothing. My stethoscope and fuel lines
I guess I need to drop tank. Likely installed improperly.

Maybe wiring was reversed. it was a kit. May need reverse lines. This is just nuts. Do the cruiser work yourself as good employees are hard to come by in this post covid world we live in.

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Joined
Sep 14, 2020
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cali
Nothing. My stethoscope and fuel lines
I guess I need to drop tank. Likely installed improperly.

Maybe wiring was reversed. it was a kit. May need reverse lines. This is just nuts. Do the cruiser work yourself as good employees are hard to come by in this post covid world we live in.

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That sucks. It‘s definitely hard to find mechanics willing to / competent enough to work on these rigs. Much better to do the work yourself, let alone cheaper.

Once you get this sorted out you’ll have a practically new fuel delivery system so that’s a plus!
 

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