FJ62 Headlight Upgrade Options (1 Viewer)

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So, I've read this post several times and I'm still confused. I have decided that JW Speakers are going to the oath I take. What I am still trying to decipher ...

Are these plug-n-play?
Do I need the upgraded harness from Susquehanna?
What else do I need to know before making this upgrade?

Thanks!
 
For what it's worth...I want to pass along a headlight "surprise" that came up as I was overcoming other headlight issues. I had a problem with the headlights switch in the steering wheel switch assembly that created a loss of headlights often when switching between low beams and high beams. It would take a quick stalk wiggle to get them back. I had also noticed that the headlights just seem dimmer. The high/low problem was clearly in the headlight "capsule" in the assembly, but I presumed that the OEM headlight harness that is often blamed here by many folks was at fault for the dim headlights...and I'd have to invest in a harness replacement and upgrade the headlight assemblies.

It's not an easy task, but that capsule can be opened and contacts burnished clean. That fixed my high/low beam problem. To my surprise, it also fixed my dim headlight issue. I'm no electrical engineer, and I don't have comparative before and after voltage or foot-candle measurements...but my guess is that tarnished contacts can cause issues. My sealed beams are now easily more than adequate...and they are quite old. I have four new ones on the way. Perhaps I'll need to upgrade them later, but for now they are going to be fine...and minimal effort and expense to keep that way. Food for thought.

EDIT: I installed the four new sealed beam headlights this afternoon. I measured before and after output with a light meter (at tool from my work). The new resulted in about a 20% increase in output and more consistency. That's nice to know, but not a dramatic improvement to our visual perception. One thing I did notice was a significantly different lens design in the low beam 4656 units (old Sylvania vs new Sylvania). I'll have to test drive in darkness soon.
 
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I'm not sure what you mean by the "capsules." I'd like to try this step before replacing the headlight/washer stalk. I have no high-beams, I used to then they just stopped working.

Cheers.
 
i went thru susquehanna, did a H1 and H4 conversion, around $300, very happy with it. once i had the lights aimed properly, it's the best. regardless of what you use, make sure you get the +/- correct on the high beams as crossed grounds will cause them to malfunction and stay dimmly lit, just won't work right, very easy to correct tho.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by the "capsules." I'd like to try this step before replacing the headlight/washer stalk. I have no high-beams, I used to then they just stopped working.

Cheers.

If you take a look at the steering wheel switch assembly you will see that the turn indicator stalk engages metal contacts that are the ones that you engage when you switch from dim to bright or bright flash with fore/aft movement of the stalk. Those contacts are all inside a clear plastic enclosure I call a capsule. The "capsule" is a sub assembly of the steering wheel switch assembly. It's not easy to get out and work with. You'll likely have to use a soldering iron to disconnect it. Take a photo to make sure you get it back right on completion.

As an alternative, you may be able to do this...but disconnect the battery first. Get yourself a can of spray electronics cleaner and can of Dust Off or an air hose from compressor. Get the capsule open enough to get the small tip of spray electronics cleaner in there and spray a bit. Cycle the stalk through its positions a few times, then blow out the capsule the best you can. This stuff dries fairly quickly. When you think it's safe to do so, reconnect the battery and see if that helped.
 
Thank you! I'm going to check that out and see what I can get.
If you take a look at the steering wheel switch assembly you will see that the turn indicator stalk engages metal contacts that are the ones that you engage when you switch from dim to bright or bright flash with fore/aft movement of the stalk. Those contacts are all inside a clear plastic enclosure I call a capsule. The "capsule" is a sub assembly of the steering wheel switch assembly. It's not easy to get out and work with. You'll likely have to use a soldering iron to disconnect it. Take a photo to make sure you get it back right on completion.

As an alternative, you may be able to do this...but disconnect the battery first. Get yourself a can of spray electronics cleaner and can of Dust Off or an air hose from compressor. Get the capsule open enough to get the small tip of spray electronics cleaner in there and spray a bit. Cycle the stalk through its positions a few times, then blow out the capsule the best you can. This stuff dries fairly quickly. When you think it's safe to do so, reconnect the battery and see if that helped.
 
I'm not sure how the grounds would have gotten crossed but I'll check them out. I thought there was only one way for them to connect to the bulb. I might need to clean them out also. They're not grounded to the body etc are they?

i went thru susquehanna, did a H1 and H4 conversion, around $300, very happy with it. once i had the lights aimed properly, it's the best. regardless of what you use, make sure you get the +/- correct on the high beams as crossed grounds will cause them to malfunction and stay dimmly lit, just won't work right, very easy to correct tho.
 
i went thru susquehanna, did a H1 and H4 conversion, around $300, very happy with it. once i had the lights aimed properly, it's the best. regardless of what you use, make sure you get the +/- correct on the high beams as crossed grounds will cause them to malfunction and stay dimmly lit, just won't work right, very easy to correct tho.

Do you have a complete parts list that you got from them? I think I am moving in that direction also..
 
EDIT: I installed the four new sealed beam headlights this afternoon. I measured before and after output with a light meter (at tool from my work). The new resulted in about a 20% increase in output and more consistency. That's nice to know, but not a dramatic improvement to our visual perception. One thing I did notice was a significantly different lens design in the low beam 4656 units (old Sylvania vs new Sylvania). I'll have to test drive in darkness soon.

I've since driven at night with the new sealed beam headlights...and they are terrific.
 
Do you have a complete parts list that you got from them? I think I am moving in that direction also..
I don't have a complete parts list from mine, but if you look at my post on this thread from Jan 18th, 2018 it has a picture of every piece i needed and used. I imagine if you shared it with the guy from Susquehanna, he would know exactly what he was looking at.
 
I have a question! I emailed Susquehanna Motor Sports inquiring about the harness and lights and was told today that I need harness
#HL28202FJ26 I do not see that anywhere on their site and it is not the HL282 or HL28202S that most here on mud are using?
Any idea on what that is about? I need the setup for the 1989 FJ62
 
I have a question! I emailed Susquehanna Motor Sports inquiring about the harness and lights and was told today that I need harness
#HL28202FJ26 I do not see that anywhere on their site and it is not the HL282 or HL28202S that most here on mud are using?
Any idea on what that is about? I need the setup for the 1989 FJ62

Pretty sure they meant HL28202FJ62. It has FJ62 in the part number. Just select that and purchase.

"HL28202FJ62 - Upgrade Harness for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62"

 
 
Xprite installed on one side. I have used it since Tuesday the 9th, and so far the beam is perfect. The only problem is that it doesn't exactly fit in the headlight bucket, but some convincing makes it happen.

View attachment 1609690
I received a set for Christmas, what modifications did you do to make them fit?
 
Anyone have issues with reliability on the Xprite 4x6's? Thinking about pulling the trigger on these since I can't stomach the price of the JW Speakers.
 
We had about 4 of them lose seals, so we found another supplier and they're way brighter and the cutoff is also cleaner overall. I installed 4 on mine and we found a ground switching relay kit that is plug and play with two pinout changes on a 60 and 62
 
Do you sell the new supplier lights? Curious to see the appearance. Didn't see them on your site.
 
Here's a pic on my 62, we sell a set of 2 for 119 and the ground switching relays for 29 each

IMG_3647.JPG
 

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