FJ60 rebuilt carb high idle... (1 Viewer)

gregnash

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Ok so this is an on-going saga that has been happening with BeBe since I rebuilt the top end in 2015/2016. She is a 85 FJ60 with the original 2F in her, desmogged when I first got her due to the smog pump being seized.

Issue:
- Truck will idle high after it has warmed up. Talking between 900rpm and 1500rpm, just depends on the particular time no real consistency to it.
- Quick pump of the gas pedal MAY drop the idle, which has been set to about 650rpm, down to normal idle rpm or it could just drop down a little.
- Shifting while high idle is present will cause the idle to stay high during the shift. If clutch is pushed in the idle will slowly drop, but may "bounce" back a few hundred RPM. (E.G. drops to around 1k but will bounce back to 1200) Bounce may occur when quick pump happens, again inconsistent.

Example:
Can be leaving for work after the truck has warmed up for 5-10mins at normal idle, no choke and get to first stop sign by the house and all will be good. Then will continue to drive on my route and by next stop sign the idle will kick up to 1k rpm when the clutch is in (regardless of shifting or not). Quick tap of the pedal at the stop MAY drop the rpm, sometimes does sometimes doesn't. Next stop sign may see the idle return to normal, may go higher, may be slightly lower, never goes above 1500rpm-ish though.

This will continue regardless of how much I drive the truck, regardless of how many miles are put on the street vs. highway. This only happens with my carb as I had @HemiAlex stock carb that he lent me months ago, on there and never had this issue.

What's been done:
- Carb was rebuilt in 2016 when I had the top end apart with the proper Keyster kit from @cruiseroutfit.
- Stock ICS was found to be KIA during the rebuild (see build thread) and thus replaced with only aftermarket available at that time from CCOT. At this time was start of issue.
- Checked manifold gaskets, carb base plate gaskets and all surrounding areas for possible vacuum leaks but only found a small leak at the manifold, nothing that would cause this large of increase.
- Checked all vacuum line routing to ensure everything was proper and no cracked lines. Replaced where necessary.
- Carb was rebuilt again at the beginning of this year when I swapped Alex's carb in. Never exhibited these or any issues with his carb.
- Replaced cheap AC Pump in carb that comes with Keyster kit with OEM replacement from City Racer when rebuilding carb.

So last week I had time to swap the carbs again, putting mine back on. For the first day or so everything seemed alright but then the high idle issue started up again. No matter the adjustments that are made to the carb, it seems it will either idle like crap and keep a normal idle pattern (staying around 650-700rpm) or it will have this high idle issue. Thinking that it may be the aftermarket ICS from CCOT I purchased another aftermarket from CityRacer only to get it yesterday and find that it LOOKS to be the exact same make, NAKAMOTO.

Even with the new ICS the carb still has the same issue so now I need to figure out where to go next. Should I just start all over again, bring the timing back down to stock and start all over? In the past this has done nothing and being that the truck is desmogged I normally run at about 12-15*. I have everything for a high altitude vehicle as Carson City is at about 4500' and I regularly travel up to Lake Tahoe to go to the family cabin at over 6500' and then mountains being anywhere from 7k' to 8k' passes.

One thing I have not been able to find on here is a definitive "baseline setting" for the carb to start from after having done things like a rebuild. I have the fuel screw currently turned out 2 3/4 turns and she seems to be running quite happily there, FSM says to start at 2 and then go up. I know that JimC's write-up says to run at 3-4 but when I do it smells like she runs real rich. I know that part of my exhaust is shot and I am gathering pieces to replace it and the cat (non-oem as I upgraded to 2.5" exhaust from cat-back) in the next couple weeks here, hoping to get some work done on it this week.

I am a bit at a loss for this, it is something I have been fighting with for a while but can never seem to get the idle just right. Other than the high idle issue, she runs great, plenty of power (for a 2F with close to 200k on it) and has good compression last I checked (bout this time last year).
 

OSS

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I'm thinking...
Since one carb runs fine and the other has intermittent throttle position issues and carbs are purely mechanical devices, (except for the FCS) something is sticking. A linkage or whatever is binding up occasionally.
That's my first guess anyway.
 

gregnash

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I was pretty much thinking the same as @OSS and @NeverGiveUpYota with the linkage. Both times were rebuilt by me, never dropped or anything like that and looking at the orientation of linkages does not show anything to be out of place, mis-aligned etc. Was really hoping that it was just a crappy aftermarket ICS but with the same things happening with the new ICS on mine that has squashed that thought.

Really wish I could find a used ICS, and no @HemiAlex I don't want to pull yours off your carb as I am pretty sure that is what killed mine (wires were just too old).

The weird item in there is the "blipping" the gas will normally lower the rpm down but at times it will "bounce" back up. If the linkage was bent you would feel a sticking point as it came back to a "normalized" spot. This is not something that I feel in any way, shape or form. Manipulation of the throttle, either via the pedal or via the linkage in the engine bay, is smooth and I feel no catches.
 

gregnash

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Hopefully will have some time over the next few days to get things reset. We are home this weekend but gone the next two following so could be that I have to take the truck down during the week (which I try to avoid) to get things reset.

Going to start by resetting the timing and everything to see if I can get her to tune better. Also realized that I do have a spare ECM module laying around so maybe, just maybe it is a combination of the old carb and ECM? Highly doubt it but may throw that in at some point if I am still experiencing the issues. Not enough hours in the days get everything needed done. Trying to avoid riding to work right now as Carson City is pretty much socked in with the smoke from all the california fires, literally a red flag warning everyday for air quality and Most mornings I cannot even see the hills that are less than a mile behind my house. Some days it clears out by the afternoon but most have not been.
 

gregnash

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Well holy crap.. I randomly found a take 87 carb on ebay last night for $150 (plus $22 shipping) and noticed it had the "Best Offer" button as well. Pics of the carb show that it is quite dirty but otherwise unmolested (fuel screw plate/button/plug things is still in place). So I figured, what the hell I will give it a shot and offer up $100. Just got confirmation that it was accepted!!!

So looks like I will be getting my own, second carb to rebuild shortly here. This thing is DIRTY but otherwise looks to be in very good shape.
Carburetor for 74-87 2F Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ60 | eBay
 
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Great find! Throw it on there!

Regarding the turns out, I have to start mine more like 4-5 turns out but I think I still have a crack under the carb where the weld ended. But anyway, you should be able to do the lean drop to get a good idea where it should be. After getting it set up with lean drop method, I’d turn it out 1/4 turn so it doesn’t run too lean.
 
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Well holy crap.. I randomly found a take 87 carb on ebay last night for $150 (plus $22 shipping) and noticed it had the "Best Offer" button as well. Pics of the carb show that it is quite dirty but otherwise unmolested (fuel screw plate/button/plug things is still in place). So I figured, what the hell I will give it a shot and offer up $100. Just got confirmation that it was accepted!!!

So looks like I will be getting my own, second carb to rebuild shortly here. This thing is DIRTY but otherwise looks to be in very good shape.
Carburetor for 74-87 2F Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ60 | eBay


Do yourself a favor and send that carb to JimC. Why? Because it is the right thing to do.
I had him rebuild my spare carb, I unboxed it, put a new isolator on (mine was shot), mounted it and plugged in all of the vacuum hoses and the fuel line. Took a few moments for it to get gas and it fired up and idled perfectly. Even the AC kickup works perfectly.
I have done zero adjustments to it.

It has been flawless and I have zero regrets and the guy is a master. These are not rocket science, but carbs are a PITA and I hate rebuilding them. It is not that I cannot, it is I prefer not to for the reasons you are having. Once mistake, one clocked jet or passage and you have nothing but issues.

I will be sending him my now spare in the next few months just to have it done.
 
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HemiAlex

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Do yourself a favor and send that carb to JimC. Why? Because it is the right thing to do.
I had him rebuild my spare carb, I unboxed it, put a new isolator on (mine was shot), mounted it and plugged in all of the vacuum hoses and the fuel line. Took a few moments for it to get gas and it fired up and idled perfectly. Even the AC kickup works perfectly.
I have done zero adjustments to it.

It has been flawless and I have zero regrets and the guy is a master. These are not rocket science, but carbs are a PITA and I hate rebuilding them. It is not that I cannot, it is I prefer not to for the reasons you are having. Once mistake, one clocked jet or passage and you have nothing but issues.

I will be sending him my now spare in the next few months just to have it done.


I’m going to second this, but he will argue.
 

gregnash

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Yeah that was pretty much my thought process behind this purchase. Since I was able to get it for so cheap I figured I would just turn around and send it his way.
 

gregnash

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I’m going to second this, but he will argue.
And normally you would be right but in this case I was halfway to just spending the money on an EFI system. Since I have an, potentially unmolested (I say potentially because I have not seen in person only the pics) new to me carb, I might as well have it properly desmogged by the master himself. This also saves me from worrying about the truck being down for an extended period again.

I would have done this with my current while I had @HemiAlex on there, but I figured that I knew what the issue was with mine.
 

HemiAlex

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Honestly, I haven’t driven an efi truck but I know how I’ve had zero issues with my city racer carb.

I still think Jim’s will be the best. The 200k aisan that I borrowed from @FJ40JOHN ran fantastic and all I did was clean the outside and rinse the bowls. The factory carb feels way more linear and smooth than anything else.
 
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Honestly, I haven’t driven an efi truck but I know how I’ve had zero issues with my city racer carb.

I still think Jim’s will be the best. The 200k aisan that I borrowed from @FJ40JOHN ran fantastic and all I did was clean the outside and rinse the bowls. The factory carb feels way more linear and smooth than anything else.

Plus he will tune it to how you want from the get go. Like I said, I unboxed mine and installed it. Then drove it. No fussing with it at all.
 

gregnash

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Thanks for the info guys... Yeah think I am going to have to take a little money out the 40th MTB fund and pay for this, can't do both at the same time (putting away about $300-$500 a month depending). But will be well worth it and finally get the next part of my desmog completed only leaving the exhaust (which will be completed here soon) and the dizzy recurve to finish it out completely.
 

gregnash

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The ebay pics do seem to show a very rebuildable carb, nothing broken, bent or missing. Just covered with a protective layer of dirt.
Yup.. I will be sending you contact @FJ40Jim once I receive the carb to have it desmogged/rebuilt... Definitely looking forward to have the old girl purring like a kitten again.
 

FJ40JOHN

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Honestly, I haven’t driven an efi truck but I know how I’ve had zero issues with my city racer carb.

I still think Jim’s will be the best. The 200k aisan that I borrowed from @FJ40JOHN ran fantastic and all I did was clean the outside and rinse the bowls. The factory carb feels way more linear and smooth than anything else.

If you want to borrow mine @gregnash , you are welcome to try it out and see if it solves your issues. My 60 is just sitting for now, so no rush to get it back. @HemiAlex can send it your way (I'll happily volunteer his shipping services!).
 

gregnash

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If you want to borrow mine @gregnash , you are welcome to try it out and see if it solves your issues. My 60 is just sitting for now, so no rush to get it back. @HemiAlex can send it your way (I'll happily volunteer his shipping services!).

LOL thank @FJ40JOHN I appreciate that but betwen the issues not being present with Alex's carb and surfacing again with mine I am pretty sure that it is either linked to the fact that I have an aftermarket ICS on my current one or there is something drastically wrong with it either with something internal that I am not seeing or is getting handled when I rebuild (e.g. throttle plates are messed up, secondary slow cut is messed up, etc.) or there is something in the linkage that is bent that I am not seeing and is throwing it off.
 

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